a ride across palestine-第2部分

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to　explain　to　the　dragoman　how　it　had　come　to　pass　that　our　party
was　to　be　enlarged。

〃But　the　Bedouins　will　expect　full　pay　for　both；〃　said　he；　alarmed。
Men　in　that　class；　and　especially　Orientals；　always　think　that　every
arrangement　of　life；　let　it　be　made　in　what　way　it　will；　is　made
with　the　intention　of　saving　some　expense；　or　cheating　somebody　out
of　some　money。　　They　do　not　understand　that　men　can　have　any　other
object；　and　are　ever　on　their　guard　lest　the　saving　should　be　made
at　their　cost；　or　lest　they　should　be　the　victims　of　the　fraud。

〃All　right；〃　said　I。

〃I　shall　be　responsible；　Monsieur；〃　said　the　dragoman；　piteously。

〃It　shall　be　all　right；〃　said　I；　again。　　〃If　that　does　not　satisfy
you；　you　may　remain　behind。〃

〃If　Monsieur　says　it　is　all　right；　of　course　it　is　so；〃　and　then　he
completed　his　strapping。　　We　took　blankets　with　us；　of　which　I　had
to　borrow　two　out　of　the　hotel　for　my　friend　Smith；　a　small　hamper
of　provisions；　a　sack　containing　forage　for　the　horses；　and　a　large
empty　jar；　so　that　we　might　supply　ourselves　with　water　when　leaving
the　neighbourhood　of　wells　for　any　considerable　time。

〃I　ought　to　have　brought　these　things　for　myself；〃　said　Smith；　quite
unhappy　at　finding　that　he　had　thrown　on　me　the　necessity　of
catering　for　him。　　But　I　laughed　at　him；　saying　that　it　was　nothing；
he　should　do　as　much　for　me　another　time。　　I　am　prepared　to　own　that
I　do　not　willingly　rush　up…stairs　and　load　myself　with　blankets　out
of　strange　rooms　for　men　whom　I　do　not　know；　nor；　as　a　rule；　do　I
make　all　the　Smiths　of　the　world　free　of　my　canteen。　　But；　with
reference　to　this　fellow　I　did　feel　more　than　ordinarily　good…
natured　and　unselfish。　　There　was　something　in　the　tone　of　his　voice
which　was　satisfactory；　and　I　should　really　have　felt　vexed　had
anything　occurred　at　the　last　moment　to　prevent　his　going　with　me。

Let　it　be　a　rule　with　every　man　to　carry　an　English　saddle　with　him
when　travelling　in　the　East。　　Of　what　material　is　formed　the　nether
man　of　a　Turk　I　have　never　been　informed；　but　I　am　sure　that　it　is
not　flesh　and　blood。　　No　flesh　and　blood；simply　flesh　and　blood；
could　withstand　the　wear　and　tear　of　a　Turkish　saddle。　　This　being
the　case；　and　the　consequences　being　well　known　to　me；　I　was　grieved
to　find　that　Smith　was　not　properly　provided。　　He　was　seated　on　one
of　those　hard；　red；　high…pointed　machines；　in　which　the　shovels
intended　to　act　as　stirrups　are　attached　in　such　a　manner；　and　hang
at　such　an　angle；　as　to　be　absolutely　destructive　to　the　leg　of　a
Christian。　　There　is　no　part　of　the　Christian　body　with　which　the
Turkish　saddle　comes　in　contact　that　does　not　become　more　or　less
macerated。　　I　have　sat　in　one　for　days；　but　I　left　it　a　flayed　man；
and；　therefore；　I　was　sorry　for　Smith。

I　explained　this　to　him；　taking　hold　of　his　leg　by　the　calf　to　show
how　the　leather　would　chafe　him；　but　it　seemed　to　me　that　he　did　not
quite　like　my　interference。　　〃Never　mind；〃　said　he；　twitching　his
leg　away；　〃I　have　ridden　in　this　way　before。〃

〃Then　you　must　have　suffered　the　very　mischief？〃

〃Only　a　little；　and　I　shall　be　used　to　it　now。　　You　will　not　hear　me
complain。〃

〃By　heavens；　you　might　have　heard　me　complain　a　mile　off　when　I　came
to　the　end　of　a　journey　I　once　took。　　I　roared　like　a　bull　when　I
began　to　cool。　　Joseph；　could　you　not　get　a　European　saddle　for　Mr。
Smith？〃　　But　Joseph　did　not　seem　to　like　Mr。　Smith；　and　declared
such　a　thing　to　be　impossible。　　No　European　in　Jerusalem　would　think
of　lending　so　precious　an　article；　except　to　a　very　dear　friend。
Joseph　himself　was　on　an　English　saddle；　and　I　made　up　my　mind　that
after　the　first　stage；　we　would　bribe　him　to　make　an　exchange。　　And
then　we　started。

The　Bedouins　were　not　with　us；　but　we　were　to　meet　them；　as　I　have
said　before；　outside　St。　Stephen's　gate。　　〃And　if　they　are　not
there；〃　said　Joseph；　〃we　shall　be　sure　to　come　across　them　on　the
road。〃

〃Not　there！〃　said　I。　　〃How　about　the　consul's　tariff；　if　they　don't
keep　their　part　of　the　engagement？〃　　But　Joseph　explained　to　me　that
their　part　of　the　engagement　really　amounted　to　this；that　we
should　ride　into　their　country　without　molestation；　provided　that
such　and　such　payments　were　made。

It　was　the　period　of　Easter；　and　Jerusalem　was　full　of　pilgrims。
Even　at　that　early　hour　of　the　morning　we　could　hardly　make　our　way
through　the　narrow　streets。　　It　must　be　understood　that　there　is　no
accommodation　in　the　town　for　the　fourteen　or　fifteen　thousand
strangers　who　flock　to　the　Holy　Sepulchre　at　this　period　of　the
year。　　Many　of　them　sleep　out　in　the　open　air；　lying　on　low　benches
which　run　along　the　outside　walls　of　the　houses；　or　even　on　the
ground；　wrapped　in　their　thick　hoods　and　cloaks。　　Slumberers　such　as
these　are　easily　disturbed；　nor　are　they　detained　long　at　their
toilets。　　They　shake　themselves　like　dogs；　and　growl　and　stretch
themselves；　and　then　they　are　ready　for　the　day。

We　rode　out　of　the　town　in　a　long　file。　　First　went　the　groom…boy；　I
forget　his　proper　Syrian　appellation；　but　we　used　to　call　him
Mucherry；　that　sound　being　in　some　sort　like　the　name。　　Then
followed　the　horse　with　the　forage　and　blankets；　and　next　to　him　my
friend　Smith　in　the　Turkish　saddle。　　I　was　behind　him；　and　Joseph
brought　up　the　rear。　　We　moved　slowly　down　the　Via　Dolorosa；　noting
the　spot　at　which　our　Saviour　is　said　to　have　fallen　while　bearing
his　cross；　we　passed　by　Pilate's　house；　and　paused　at　the　gate　of
the　Temple；the　gate　which　once　was　beautiful；looking　down　into
the　hole　of　the　pool　in　which　the　maimed　and　halt　were　healed
whenever　the　waters　moved。　　What　names　they　are！　　And　yet　there　at
Jerusalem　they　are　bandied　to　and　fro　with　as　little　reverence　as
are　the　fanciful　appellations　given　by　guides　to　rocks　and　stones
and　little　lakes　in　all　countries　overrun　by　tourists。

〃For　those　who　would　still　fain　believe；let　them　stay　at　home；〃
said　my　friend　Smith。

〃For　those　who　cannot　divide　the　wheat　from　the　chaff；　let　THEM　stay
at　home；〃　I　answered。　　And　then　we　rode　out　through　St。　Stephen's
gate；　having　the　mountain　of　the　men　of　Galilee　directly　before　us；
and　the　Mount　of　Olives　a　little　to　our　right；　and　the　Valley　of
Jehoshaphat　lying　between　us　and　it。　　〃Of　course　you　know　all　these
places　now？〃　said　Smith。　　I　answered　that　I　did　know　them　well。

〃And　was　it　not　better　for　you　when　you　knew　them　only　in　Holy
Writ？〃　he　asked。

〃No；　by　Jove；〃　said　I。　　〃The　mountains　stand　where　they　ever　stood。
The　same　valleys　are　still　green　with　the　morning　dew；　and　the
water…courses　are　unchanged。　　The　children　of　Mahomet　may　build
their　tawdry　temple　on　the　threshing…floor　which　David　bought　that
there　might　stand　the　Lord's　house。　　Man　may　undo　what　man　did；　even
though　the　doer　was　Solomon。　　But　here　we　have　God's　handiwork　and
His　own　evidences。〃

At　the　bottom　of　the　steep　descent　from　the　city　gate　we　came　to　the
tomb　of　the　Virgin；　and　by　special　agreement　made　with　Joseph　we
left　our　horses　here　for　a　few　moments；　in　order　that　we　might
descend　into　the　subterranean　chapel　under　the　tomb；　in　which　mass
was　at　this　moment　being　said。　　There　is　something　awful　in　that
chapel；　when；　as　at　the　present　moment；　it　is　crowded　with　Eastern
worshippers　from　the　very　altar　up　to　the　top　of　the　dark　steps　by
which　the　descent　is　made。　　It　must　be　remembered　that　Eastern
worshippers　are　not　like　the　churchgoers　of　London；　or　even　of　Rome
or　Cologne。　　They　are　wild　men　of　various　nations　and　races；
Maronites　from　Lebanon　Roumelians；　Candiotes；　Copts　from　Upper
Egypt；　Russians　from　the　Crimea；　Armenians　and　Abyssinians。　　They
savour　strongly　of　Oriental　life　and　of　Oriental　dirt。　　They　are
clad　in　skins　or　hairy　cloaks　with　huge　hoods。　　Their　heads　are
shaved；　and　their　faces　covered　with　short；　grisly；　fierce　beards。
They　are　silent　mostly；　looking　out　of　their　eyes　ferociously；　as
though　murder　were　in　their　thoughts；　and　rapine。　　But　they　never
slouch；　or　cringe　in　their　bodies；　or　shuffle　in　their　gait。　　Dirty；
fierce…looking；　uncouth；　repellent　as　they　are；　there　is　always
about　them　a　something　of　personal　dignity　which　is　not　compatible
with　an　Englishman's　ordinary　hat　and　pantaloons。

　As　we　were　about　to　descend；　preparing　to　make　our　way　through　the
crowd；　Smith　took　hold　of　my　arm。　　〃That　will　never　do；　my　dear
fellow；〃　said　I；　〃the　job　will　be　tough　enough　for　a　single　file；
but　we　should　never　cut　our　way　two　and　two。　　I'm　broad…shouldered
and　will　go　first。〃　　So　I　did；　and　gradually　we　worked　our　way　into
the　body　of　the　chapel。　　How　is　it　that　Englishmen　can　push
themselves　anywhere？　　These　men　were　fierce…looking；　and　had　murder
and　rapine；　as　I　have　said；　almost　in　their　eyes。　　One　would　have
supposed　that　they　were　not　lambs　or　doves；　capable　of　being　thrust
here　or　there　without　anger　on　their　part；　and　they；　too；　were　all
anxious　to　descend　and　approach　the　altar。　　Yet　we　did　win　our　way
through　them；　and　apparently　no　man　was　angry　with　us。　　I　doubt；
after　all；　whether　a　ferocious　eye　and　a　strong　smell　and　dirt　are
so　efficacious　in　creating　awe　and　obedience　in　others；　as　an　open
brow　and　traces　of　soap　and　water。　　I　know　this；　at　least；that　a
dirty　Maronite　would　make　very　little　progress；　if　he　attempted　to
shove　his　way　unfairly　through　a　crowd　of　Englishmen　at　the　door　of
a　London　theatre。　　We　did　shove　unfairly；　and　we　did　make　progress；
till　we　found　ourselves　in　the　centre　of　the　dense　crowd　collected
in　the　body　of　the　chapel。

Having　got　so　far；　our　next　object　was　to　get　out　again。　　The　place
was　dark；　mysterious；　and　full　of　strange　odours；　but　darkness；
mystery；　and　strange　odours　soon　lose　their　charms　when　men　have
much　work　before　them。　　Joseph　had　made　a　point　of　being　allowed　to
attend　mass　before　the　altar　of　the　Virgin；　but　a　very　few　minutes
sufficed　for　his　prayers。　　So　we　again　turned　round　and　pushed　our
way　back　again；　Smith　still　following　in　my　wake。　　The　men　who　had
let　us　pass　once　let　us　pass　again　without　opposition　or　show　of
anger。　　To　them　the　occasion　was　very　holy。　　They　were　stretching
out　their　hands　in　every　direction；　with　long　tapers；　in　order　that
they　might　obtain