travels in england-第1部分

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Travels　in　England　AND　Fragmenta　Regalia

by　Paul　Hentzner　and　Sir　Robert　Naunton





INTRODUCTION




Queen　Elizabeth　herself；　and　London　as　it　was　in　her　time；　with　sketches　of　Elizabethan　England；　and　of　its　great　men　in　the　way　of　social　dignity；　are　here　brought　home　to　us　by　Paul　Hentzner　and　Sir　Robert　Naunton。

Paul　Hentzner　was　a　German　lawyer；　born　at　Crossen；　in　Brandenburg；　on　the　29th　of　January；　1558。　　He　died　on　the　1st　January；　1623。　　In　1596；　when　his　age　was　thirty…eight；　he　became　tutor　to　a　young　Silesian　nobleman；　with　whom　he　set　out　in　1597　on　a　three　years'　tour　through　Switzerland；　France；　England；　and　Italy。　　After　his　return　to　Germany　in　1600；　he　published；　at　Nuremberg；　in　1612；　a　description　of　what　he　had　seen　and　thought　worth　record；　written　in　Latin；　as　〃Itinerarium　Germaniae；　Galliae；　Angliae；　Italiae；　cum　Indice　Locorum；　Rerum　atque　Verborum。〃

Horace　Walpole　caused　that　part　of　Hentzner's　Itinerary　which　tells　what　he　saw　in　England　to　be　translated　by　Richard　Bentley；　son　of　the　famous　scholar；　and　he　printed　at　Strawberry　Hill　two　hundred　and　twenty　copies。　　In　1797　〃Hentzner's　Travels　in　England〃　were　edited；　together　with　Sir　Robert　Naunton's　〃Fragmenta　Regalia；〃　in　the　volume　from　which　they　are　here　reprinted；　with　notes　by　the　translator　and　the　editor。

Sir　Robert　Naunton　was　of　an　old　family　with　large　estates；　settled　at　Alderton；　in　Suffolk。　　He　was　at　Cambridge　in　the　latter　years　of　Elizabeth's　reign；　having　entered　as　Fellow　Commoner　at　Trinity　College；　and　obtained　a　Fellowship　at　Trinity　Hall。　　Naunton　went　to　Scotland　in　1589　with　an　uncle；　William　Ashby；　whom　Queen　Elizabeth　sent　thither　as　Ambassador；　and　was　despatched　to　Elizabeth's　court　from　Scotland　as　a　trusty　messenger。　　In　1596…7　he　was　in　France；　and　corresponded　with　the　Earl　of　Essex；　who　was　his　friend。　　After　the　fall　of　Essex　he　returned　to　Cambridge；　and　was　made　Proctor　of　the　University　in　1601；　three　years　after　Paul　Hentzner's　visit　to　England。　　Then　he　became　Public　Orator　at　Cambridge；　and　by　a　speech　made　to　King　James　at　Hinchinbrook　won　his　Majesty's　praise　for　Latin　and　learning。　　He　came　to　court　in　the　service　of　Sir　James　Overbury；　obtained　the　active　friendship　of　George　Villiers　Duke　of　Buckingham；　and　was　sworn　as　Secretary　of　State　on　the　8th　January；　1617。　　The　king　afterwards　gave　Naunton　the　office　of　Master　of　the　Court　of　Wards　and　Liveries。

Sir　Robert　Naunton　wrote　his　recollections　of　the　men　who　served　Queen　Elizabeth　when　he　was　near　the　close　of　his　own　life。　　It　was　after　1628；　because　he　speaks　of　Edward　Somerset；　Earl　of　Worcester；　as　dead；　and　before　1632；　because　he　speaks　of　Sir　William　Knollys　living　as　the　only　Earl　of　Banbury。　　He　was　created　Earl　of　Banbury　in　1626；　and　died　in　1632。　　The　〃Fragmenta　Regalia〃　were　first　published　in　1641；　after　Sir　Robert's　death。　　They　were　reprinted　in　1642　and　1653；　since　which　date　they　have　appeared　in　various　collections。　　There　was　a　good　edition　of　them　in　1870　among　the　very　valuable　〃English　Reprints〃　for　which　we　are　indebted　to　Professor　Edward　Arber。

H。M。




TRAVELS　IN　ENGLAND




We　arrived　at　Rye；　a　small　English　seaport。　　Here；　as　soon　as　we　came　on　shore；　we　gave　in　our　names　to　the　notary　of　the　place；　but　not　till　he　had　demanded　our　business；　and　being　answered；　that　we　had　none　but　to　see　England；　we　were　conducted　to　an　inn；　where　we　were　very　well　entertained；　as　one　generally　is　in　this　country。

We　took　post…horses　for　London：　　it　is　surprising　how　swiftly　they　run；　their　bridles　are　very　light；　and　their　saddles　little　more　than　a　span　over。

Flimwell；　a　village：　　here　we　returned　our　first　horses；　and　mounted　fresh　ones。

We　passed　through　Tunbridge；　another　village。

Chepstead；　another　village：　　here；　for　the　second　time；　we　changed　horses。

London；　the　head　and　metropolis　of　England：　　called　by　Tacitus；　Londinium；　by　Ptolemy；　Logidinium；　by　Ammianus　Marcellinus；　Lundinium；　by　foreigners；　Londra；　and　Londres；　it　is　the　seat　of　the　British　Empire；　and　the　chamber　of　the　English　kings。　　This　most　ancient　city　is　the　the　county　of　Middlesex；　the　fruitfullest　and　wholesomest　soil　in　England。　　It　is　built　on　the　river　Thames；　sixty　miles　from　the　sea；　and　was　originally　founded；　as　all　historians　agree；　by　Brutus；　who；　coming　from　Greece　into　Italy；　thence　into　Africa；　next　into　France；　and　last　into　Britain；　chose　this　situation　for　the　convenience　of　the　river；　calling　it　Troja　Nova；　which　name　was　afterwards　corrupted　into　Trinovant。　　But　when　Lud；　the　brother　of　Cassibilan；　or　Cassivelan；　who　warred　against　Julius　Caesar；　as　he　himself　mentions　（lib。　v。　de　Bell。　Gall。）；　came　to　the　crown；　he　encompassed　it　with　very　strong　walls；　and　towers　very　artfully　constructed；　and　from　his　own　name　called　it　Caier　Lud；　I。E。；　Lud's　City。　　This　name　was　corrupted　into　that　of　Caerlunda；　and　again　in　time；　by　change　of　language；　into　Londres。　　Lud；　when　he　died；　was　buried　in　this　town；　near　that　gate　which　is　yet　called　in　Welsh；　Por　Ludin　Saxon；　Ludesgate。

The　famous　river　Thames　owes　part　of　its　stream；　as　well　as　its　appellation；　to　the　Isis；　rising　a　little　above　Winchelcomb；　and　being　increased　with　several　rivulets；　unites　both　its　waters　and　its　name　to　the　Thame；　on　the　other　side　of　Oxford；　thence；　after　passing　by　London；　and　being　of　the　utmost　utility；　from　its　greatness　and　navigation；　it　opens　into　a　vast　arm　of　the　sea；　from　whence　the　tide；　according　to　Gemma　Frisius；　flows　and　ebbs　to　the　distance　of　eighty　miles；　twice　in　twenty…five　hours；　and；　according　to　Polydore　Vergil；　above　sixty　miles　twice　in　twenty…four　hours。

This　city　being　very　large　of　itself；　has　very　extensive　suburbs；　and　a　fort　called　the　Tower；　of　beautiful　structure。　　It　is　magnificently　ornamented　with　public　buildings　and　churches；　of　which　there　are　above　one　hundred　and　twenty　parochial。

On　the　south　is　a　bridge　of　stone　eight　hundred　feet　in　length；　of　wonderful　work；　it　is　supported　upon　twenty　piers　of　square　stone；　sixty　feet　high　and　thirty　broad；　joined　by　arches　of　about　twenty　feet　diameter。　　The　whole　is　covered　on　each　side　with　houses　so　disposed　as　to　have　the　appearance　of　a　continued　street；　not　at　all　of　a　bridge。

Upon　this　is　built　a　tower；　on　whose　top　the　heads　of　such　as　have　been　executed　for　high　treason　are　placed　on　iron　spikes：　　we　counted　above　thirty。

Paulus　Jovius；　in　his　description　of　the　most　remarkable　towns　in　England；　says　all　are　obscured　by　London：　　which；　in　the　opinion　of　many；　is　Caesar's　city　of　the　Trinobantes；　the　capital　of　all　Britain；　famous　for　the　commerce　of　many　nations；　its　houses　are　elegantly　built；　its　churches　fine；　its　towns　strong；　and　its　riches　and　abundance　surprising。　　The　wealth　of　the　world　is　wafted　to　it　by　the　Thames；　swelled　by　the　tide；　and　navigable　to　merchant　ships　through　a　safe　and　deep　channel　for　sixty　miles；　from　its　mouth　to　the　city：　　its　banks　are　everywhere　beautified　with　fine　country　seats；　woods；　and　farms；　below　is　the　royal　palace　of　Greenwich；　above；　that　of　Richmond；　and　between　both；　on　the　west　of　London；　rise　the　noble　buildings　of　Westminster；　most　remarkable　for　the　courts　of　justice；　the　parliament；　and　St。　Peter's　church；　enriched　with　the　royal　tombs。　　At　the　distance　of　twenty　miles　from　London　is　the　castle　of　Windsor；　a　most　delightful　retreat　of　the　Kings　of　England；　as　well　as　famous　for　several　of　their　tombs；　and　for　the　ceremonial　of　the　Order　of　the　Garter。　　This　river　abounds　in　swans；　swimming　in　flocks：　　the　sight　of　them；　and　their　noise；　are　vastly　agreeable　to　the　fleets　that　meet　them　in　their　course。　　It　is　joined　to　the　city　by　a　bridge　of　stone；　wonderfully　built；　is　never　increased　by　any　rains；　rising　only　with　the　tide；　and　is　everywhere　spread　with　nets　for　taking　salmon　and　shad。　　Thus　far　Paulus　Jovius。

Polydore　Vergil　affirms　that　London　has　continued　to　be　a　royal　city；　and　the　capital　of　the　kingdom；　crowded　with　its　own　inhabitants　and　foreigners；　abounding　in　riches；　and　famous　for　its　great　trade；　from　the　time　of　King　Archeninus；　or　Erchenvinus。　　Here　the　kings　are　crowned；　and　solemnly　inaugurated；　and　the　council　of　the　nation；　or　parliament；　is　held。　　The　government　of　the　city　is　lodged；　by　ancient　grant　of　the　Kings　of　Britain；　in　twenty…four　aldermenthat　is；　seniors：　　these　annually　elect　out　of　their　own　body　a　mayor　and　two　sheriffs；　who　determine　causes　according　to　municipal　laws。　　It　has　always　had；　as　indeed　Britain　in　general　has；　a　great　number　of　men　of　learning；　much　distinguished　for　their　writings。

The　walls　are　pierced　with　six　gates；　which；　as　they　were　rebuilt；　acquired　new　names。　　Two　look　westward：

1。　　Ludgate；　the　oldest；　so　called　from　King　Lud；　whose　name　is　yet　to　be　seen；　cut　in　the　stone　over　the　arch　on　the　side；　though　others　imagine　it　rather　to　have　been　named　Fludgate；　from　a　stream　over　which　it　stands；　like　the　Porta　Fluentana　at　Rome。　　It　has　been　lately　repaired　by　Queen　Elizabeth；　whose　statue　is　placed　on　the　opposite　side。　　And；

2。　　Newgate；　the　best　edifice　of　any；　so　called　from　being　new　built；　whereas　before　it　was　named　Chamberlain　gate。　　It　is　the　public　prison。

On　the　north　are　four：

1。　　Aldersgate；　as　some　think　from　alder　trees；　as　others；　from　Aldericius；　a　Saxon。

2。　　Cripplegate；　from　a　hospital　for　the　lame。

3。　　Moorgate；　from　a　neighbouring　morass；　now　converted　into　a　field；　first　opened　by　Francetius　｛1｝　the　mayor；　A。D。　1414。

4。　　And　Bishopsgate；　from　some　bishop：　　this　the　German　merchants　of　the　Hans　society　were　obliged　by　compact　to　keep　in　repair；　and　in　times　of　danger　to　defend。　　They　were　in　possession　of　a　key　to　open　or　shut　it；　so　that　upon　occasion　they　could　come　in；　or　go　out；　by　night　or　by　day。

There　is　only　one　to　the　east：

Aldgate；　that　is；　Oldgate；　from　its　antiquity；　though　others　think　it　to　have　been　named　Elbegate。

Several　people　believe　that　there　were　formerly　two　gates　（besides　that　to　the　bridge）　towards　the　Thames。

1。　　Billingsgate；　now　a　cothon；　or　artificial　port；　for　the　reception　of　ships。

2。　　Dourgate；　VULGO　Dowgate；　I。E。；　Water…gate。

The　cathedral　of　St。　Paul　was　founded　by　Ethelbert；　King　of　the　Saxons；　and　being　from　time　to　tim