travels in england-第5部分

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s；　all　sorts　of　gold　and　silver　vessels　exposed　to　sale；　as　well　as　ancient　and　modern　medals；　in　such　quantities　as　must　surprise　a　man　the　first　time　he　sees　and　considers　them。

Fitz…Stephen；　a　writer　of　English　history；　reckoned　in　his　time　in　London　one　hundred　and　twenty…seven　parish　churches；　and　thirteen　belonging　to　convents；　he　mentions；　besides；　that　upon　a　review　there　of　men　able　to　bear　arms；　the　people　brought　into　the　field　under　their　colours　forty　thousand　foot　and　twenty　thousand　horse。　VIDE　Camden's　〃Britannia；〃　Middlesex。

The　best　oysters　are　sold　here　in　great　quantities。

Everybody　knows　that　English　cloth　is　much　approved　of　for　the　goodness　of　the　materials；　and　imported　into　all　the　kingdoms　and　provinces　of　Europe。

We　were　shown；　at　the　house　of　Leonard　Smith；　a　tailor；　a　most　perfect　looking…glass；　ornamented　with　gold；　pearl；　silver；　and　velvet；　so　richly　as　to　be　estimated　at　five　hundred　ecus　du　soleil。　We　saw　at　the　same　place　the　hippocamp　and　eagle　stone；　both　very　curious　and　rare。

And　thus　much　of　London。

Upon　taking　the　air　down　the　river；　the　first　thing　that　struck　us　was　the　ship　of　that　noble　pirate；　Sir　Francis　Drake；　in　which　he　is　said　to　have　surrounded　this　globe　of　earth。　　On　the　left　hand　lies　Ratcliffe；　a　considerable　suburb：　　on　the　opposite　shore　is　fixed　a　long　pole　with　ram's…horns　upon　it；　the　intention　of　which　was　vulgarly　said　to　be　a　reflection　upon　wilful　and　contented　cuckolds。

We　arrived　next　at　the　royal　palace　of　Greenwich；　reported　to　have　been　originally　built　by　Humphrey；　Duke　of　Gloucester；　and　to　have　received　very　magnificent　additions　from　Henry　VII。　　It　was　here　Elizabeth；　the　present　Queen；　was　born；　and　her　she　generally　resides；　particularly　in　summer；　for　the　delightfulness　of　its　situation。　　We　were　admitted；　by　an　order　Mr。　Rogers　had　procured　from　the　Lord　Chamberlain；　into　the　presence　chamber；　hung　with　rich　tapestry；　and　the　floor；　after　the　English　fashion；　strewed　with　hay；　｛8｝　through　which　the　Queen　commonly　passes　on　her　way　to　chapel。　　At　the　door　stood　a　gentleman　dressed　in　velvet；　with　a　gold　chain；　whose　office　was　to　introduce　to　the　Queen　any　person　of　distinction　that　came　to　wait　on　her；　it　was　Sunday；　when　there　is　usually　the　greatest　attendance　of　nobility。　　In　the　same　hall　were　the　Archbishop　of　Canterbury；　the　Bishop　of　London；　a　great　number　of　Councillors　of　State；　officers　of　the　Crown；　and　gentlemen；　who　waited　the　Queen's　coming　out；　which　she　did　from　her　own　apartment　when　it　was　time　to　go　to　prayers；　attended　in　the　following　manner：…

First　went　gentlemen；　barons；　earls；　Knights　of　the　Garter；　all　richly　dressed　and　bareheaded；　next　came　the　Chancellor；　bearing　the　seals　in　a　red　silk　purse；　between　two；　one　of　whom　carried　the　Royal　sceptre；　the　other　the　sword　of　state；　in　a　red　scabbard；　studded　with　golden　FLEURS　DE　LIS；　the　point　upwards：　　next　came　the　Queen；　in　the　sixty…fifth　year　of　her　age；　as　we　were　told；　very　majestic；　her　face　oblong；　fair；　but　wrinkled；　her　eyes　small；　yet　black　and　pleasant；　her　nose　a　little　hooked；　her　lips　narrow；　and　her　teeth　black　（a　defect　the　English　seem　subject　to；　from　their　too　great　use　of　sugar）；　she　had　in　her　ears　two　pearls；　with　very　rich　drops；　she　wore　false　hair；　and　that　red；　upon　her　head　she　had　a　small　crown；　reported　to　be　made　of　some　of　the　gold　of　the　celebrated　Lunebourg　table；　her　bosom　was　uncovered；　as　all　the　English　ladies　have　it　till　they　marry；　and　she　had　on　a　necklace　of　exceeding　fine　jewels；　her　hands　were　small；　her　fingers　long；　and　her　stature　neither　tall　nor　low；　her　air　was　stately；　her　manner　of　speaking　mild　and　obliging。　　That　day　she　was　dressed　in　white　silk；　bordered　with　pearls　of　the　size　of　beans；　and　over　it　a　mantle　of　black　silk；　shot　with　silver　threads；　her　train　was　very　long；　the　end　of　it　borne　by　a　marchioness；　instead　of　a　chain；　she　had　an　oblong　collar　of　gold　and　jewels。　　As　she　went　along　in　all　this　state　and　magnificence；　she　spoke　very　graciously；　first　to　one；　then　to　another；　whether　foreign　Ministers；　or　those　who　attended　for　different　reasons；　in　English；　French；　and　Italian；　for；　besides　being　well　skilled　in　Greek；　Latin；　and　the　languages　I　have　mentioned；　she　is　mistress　of　Spanish；　Scotch；　and　Dutch。　　Whoever　speaks　to　her；　it　is　kneeling；　now　and　then　she　raises　some　with　her　hand。　　While　we　were　there；　W。　Slawata；　a　Bohemian　baron；　had　letters　to　present　to　her；　and　she；　after　pulling　off　her　glove；　gave　him　her　right　hand　to　kiss；　sparkling　with　rings　and　jewels；　a　mark　of　particular　favour。　　Wherever　she　turned　her　face；　as　she　was　going　along；　everybody　fell　down　on　their　knees。　｛9｝　　The　ladies　of　the　court　followed　next　to　her；　very　handsome　and　well…shaped；　and　for　the　most　part　dressed　in　white。　　She　was　guarded　on　each　side　by　the　gentlemen　pensioners；　fifty　in　number；　with　gilt　battle…axes。　In　the　ante…chapel；　next　the　hall　where　we　were；　petitions　were　presented　to　her；　and　she　received　them　most　graciously；　which　occasioned　the　acclamation　of　〃Long　Live　Queen　Elizabeth！〃　　She　answered　it　with　〃I　thank　you；　my　good　people。〃　　In　the　chapel　was　excellent　music；　as　soon　as　it　and　the　service　were　over；　which　scarce　exceeded　half　an　hour；　the　Queen　returned　in　the　same　state　and　order；　and　prepared　to　go　to　dinner。　　But　while　she　was　still　at　prayers；　we　saw　her　table　set　out　with　the　following　solemnity：…

A　gentleman　entered　the　room　bearing　a　rod；　and　along　with　him　another　who　had　a　table…cloth　which；　after　they　had　both　kneeled　three　times　with　the　utmost　veneration；　he　spread　upon　the　table；　and；　after　kneeling　again；　they　both　retired。　　Then　came　two　others；　one　with　the　rod　again；　the　other　with　a　salt…cellar；　a　plate；　and　bread；　when　they　had　kneeled　as　the　others　had　done；　and　placed　what　was　brought　upon　the　table；　they　too　retired　with　the　same　ceremonies　performed　by　the　first。　　At　last　came　an　unmarried　lady　（we　were　told　she　was　a　countess）；　and　along　with　her　a　married　one；　bearing　a　tasting…knife；　the　former　was　dressed　in　white　silk；　who；　when　she　had　prostrated　herself　three　times　in　the　most　graceful　manner；　approached　the　table　and　rubbed　the　plates　with　bread　and　salt　with　as　much　awe　as　if　the　Queen　had　been　present。　　When　they　had　waited　there　a　little　while；　the　yeomen　of　the　guards　entered；　bareheaded；　clothed　in　scarlet；　with　a　golden　rose　upon　their　backs；　bringing　in　at　each　turn　a　course　of　twenty…four　dishes；　served　in　plate；　most　of　it　gilt；　these　dishes　were　received　by　a　gentleman　in　the　same　order　they　were　brought；　and　placed　upon　the　table；　while　the　lady　taster　gave　to　each　of　the　guard　a　mouthful　to　eat　of　the　particular　dish　he　had　brought；　for　fear　of　any　poison。　　During　the　time　that　this　guard；　which　consists　of　the　tallest　and　stoutest　men　that　can　be　found　in　all　England；　being　carefully　selected　for　this　service；　were　bringing　dinner；　twelve　trumpets　and　two　kettledrums　made　the　hall　ring　for　half　an　hour　together。　　At　the　end　of　all　this　ceremonial；　a　number　of　unmarried　ladies　appeared；　who；　with　particular　solemnity；　lifted　the　meat　off　the　table；　and　conveyed　it　into　the　Queen's　inner　and　more　private　chamber；　where；　after　she　had　chosen　for　herself；　the　rest　goes　to　the　ladies　of　the　Court。

The　Queen　dines　and　sups　alone　with　very　few　attendants；　and　it　is　very　seldom　that　anybody；　foreigner　or　native；　is　admitted　at　that　time；　and　then　only　at　the　intercession　of　somebody　in　power。

Near　this　palace　is　the　Queen's　park；　stocked　with　deer。　　Such　parks　are　common　throughout　England；　belonging　to　those　that　are　distinguished　either　for　their　rank　or　riches。　　In　the　middle　of　this　is　an　old　square　tower；　called　Mirefleur；　supposed　to　be　that　mentioned　in　the　romance　of　〃Amadis　de　Gaul；〃　and　joining　to　it　a　plain；　where　knights　and　other　gentlemen　use　to　meet；　at　set　times　and　holidays；　to　exercise　on　horseback。

We　left　London　in　a　coach；　in　order　to　see　the　remarkable　places　in　its　neighbourhood。

The　first　was　Theobalds；　belonging　to　Lord　Burleigh；　the　Treasurer。　In　the　gallery　was　painted　the　genealogy　of　the　Kings　of　England；　from　this　place　one　goes　into　the　garden；　encompassed　with　a　ditch　full　of　water；　large　enough　for　one　to　have　the　pleasure　of　going　in　a　boat　and　rowing　between　the　shrubs；　here　are　great　variety　of　trees　and　plants；　labyrinths　made　with　a　great　deal　of　labour；　a　JET　D'EAU；　with　its　basin　of　white　marble；　and　columns　and　pyramids　of　wood　and　other　materials　up　and　down　the　garden。　　After　seeing　these；　we　were　led　by　the　gardener　into　the　summer…house；　in　the　lower　part　of　which；　built　semicircularly；　are　the　twelve　Roman　emperors　in　white　marble；　and　a　table　of　touchstone；　the　upper　part　of　it　is　set　round　with　cisterns　of　lead；　into　which　the　water　is　conveyed　through　pipes；　so　that　fish　may　be　kept　in　them；　and　in　summer…time　they　are　very　convenient　for　bathing。　　In　another　room　for　entertainment；　very　near　this；　and　joined　to　it　by　a　little　bridge；　was　an　oval　table　of　red　marble。　　We　were　not　admitted　to　see　the　apartments　of　this　palace；　there　being　nobody　to　show　it；　as　the　family　was　in　town；　attending　the　funeral　of　their　lord。　｛10｝

Hoddesdon；　a　village。

Ware；　a　market　town。

Puckeridge；　a　village；　this　was　the　first　place　where　we　observed　that　the　beds　at　inns　were　made　by　the　waiters。

Camboritum；　Cantabrigium　and　Cantabrigia；　now　called　Cambridge；　a　celebrated　town；　so　named　from　the　river　Cam；　which　after　washing　the　western　side；　playing　through　islands；　turns　to　the　east；　and　divides　the　town　into　two　parts；　which　are　joined　by　a　bridge；　whence　its　modern　nameformerly　it　had　the　Saxon　one　of　Grantbridge。　　Beyond　this　bridge　is　an　ancient　and　large　castle；　said　to　be　built　by　the　Danes：　　on　this　side；　where　far　the　greater　part　of　the　town　stands；　all　is　splendid；　the　streets　fine；　the　churches　numerous；　and　those　seats　of　the　Muses；　the　colleges；　most　beautiful；　in　these　a　great　number　of　learned　men　are　supported；　and　the　studies　of　all　polite　sciences　and　languages　flourish。

I　think　proper　to　mention　some　few　things　about　the　foundation　of　this　University　and　its　colleges。　　Cantaber；　a　Spaniard；　is　thought　to　have　first　instituted　this　academy　375　years　before　Christ；　and　Sebe