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part02-第2部分
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Arabian arch; of the horseshoe form; which springs to half the
height of the tower。 On the keystone of this arch is engraven a
gigantic hand。 Within the vestibule; on the keystone of the portal; is
sculptured; in like manner; a gigantic key。 Those who pretend to
some knowledge of Mohammedan symbols; affirm that the hand is the
emblem of doctrine; the five fingers designating the five principal
commandments of the creed of Islam; fasting; pilgrimage;
alms…giving; ablution; and war against infidels。 The key; say they; is
the emblem of the faith or of power; the key of Daoud or David;
transmitted to the prophet。 〃And the key of the house of David will
I lay upon his shoulder; so he shall open and none shall shut; and
he shall shut and none shall open。〃 (Isaiah xxii。 22。) The key we
are told was emblazoned on the standard of the Moslems in opposition
to the Christian emblem of the cross; when they subdued Spain or
Andalusia。 It betokened the conquering power invested in the
prophet。 〃He that hath the key of David; he that openeth and no man
shutteth; and shutteth and no man openeth。〃 (Rev。 iii。 7。)
A different explanation of these emblems; however; was given by
the legitimate son of the Alhambra; and one more in unison with the
notions of the common people; who attach something of mystery and
magic to every thing Moorish; and have all kind of superstitions
connected with this old Moslem fortress。 According to Mateo; it was
a tradition handed down from the oldest inhabitants; and which he
had from his father and grandfather; that the hand and key were
magical devices on which the fate of the Alhambra depended。 The
Moorish king who built it was a great magician; or; as some
believed; had sold himself to the devil; and had laid the whole
fortress under a magic spell。 By this means it had remained standing
for several hundred years; in defiance of storms and earthquakes;
while almost all other buildings of the Moors had fallen to ruin;
and disappeared。 This spell; the tradition went on to say; would
last until the hand on the outer arch should reach down and grasp
the key; when the whole pile would tumble to pieces; and all the
treasures buried beneath it by the Moors would be revealed。
Notwithstanding this ominous prediction; we ventured to pass through
the spell…bound gateway; feeling some little assurance against magic
art in the protection of the Virgin; a statue of whom we observed
above the portal。
After passing through the barbican; we ascended a narrow lane;
winding between walls; and came on an open esplanade within the
fortress; called the Plaza de los Algibes; or Place of the Cisterns;
from great reservoirs which undermine it; cut in the living rock by
the Moors to receive the water brought by conduits from the Darro; for
the supply of the fortress。 Here; also; is a well of immense depth;
furnishing the purest and coldest of water; another monument of the
delicate taste of the Moors; who were indefatigable in their exertions
to obtain that element in its crystal purity。
In front of this esplanade is the splendid pile commenced by Charles
V; and intended; it is said; to eclipse the residence of the Moorish
kings。 Much of the oriental edifice intended for the winter season was
demolished to make way for this massive pile。 The grand entrance was
blocked up; so that the present entrance to the Moorish palace is
through a simple and almost humble portal in a corner。 With all the
massive grandeur and architectural merit of the palace of Charles V;
we regarded it as an arrogant intruder; and passing by it with a
feeling almost of scorn; rang at the Moslem portal。
While waiting for admittance; our self…imposed cicerone; Mateo
Ximenes; informed us that the royal palace was intrusted to the care
of a worthy old maiden dame called Dona Antonia…Molina; but who;
according to Spanish custom; went by the more neighborly appellation
of Tia Antonia (Aunt Antonia); who maintained the Moorish halls and
gardens in order and showed them to strangers。 While we were
talking; the door was opened by a plump little black…eyed Andalusian
damsel; whom Mateo addressed as Dolores; but who from her bright looks
and cheerful disposition evidently merited a merrier name。 Mateo
informed me in a whisper that she was the niece of Tia Antonia; and
I found she was the good fairy who was to conduct us through the
enchanted palace。 Under her guidance we crossed the threshold; and
were at once transported; as if by magic wand; into other times and an
oriental realm; and were treading the scenes of Arabian story。 Nothing
could be in greater contrast than the unpromising exterior of the pile
with the scene now before us。
We found ourselves in a vast patio or court one hundred and fifty
feet in length; and upwards of eighty feet in breadth; paved with
white marble; and decorated at each end with light Moorish peristyles;
one of which supported an elegant gallery of fretted architecture。
Along the mouldings of the cornices and on various parts of the
walls were escutcheons and ciphers; and cufic and Arabic characters in
high relief; repeating the pious mottoes of the Moslem monarchs; the
builders of the Alhambra; or extolling their grandeur and munificence。
Along the centre of the court extended an immense basin or tank
(estanque) a hundred and twenty…four feet in length; twenty…seven in
breadth; and five in depth; receiving its water from two marble vases。
Hence it is called the Court of the Alberca (from al Beerkah; the
Arabic for a pond or tank)。 Great numbers of gold…fish were to be seen
gleaming through the waters of the basin; and it was bordered by
hedges of roses。
Passing from the Court of the Alberca under a Moorish archway; we
entered the renowned Court of Lions。 No part of the edifice gives a
more complete idea of its original beauty than this; for none has
suffered so little from the ravages of time。 In the centre stands
the fountain famous in song and story。 The alabaster basins still shed
their diamond drops; the twelve lions which support them; and give the
court its name; still cast forth crystal streams as in the days of
Boabdil。 The lions; however; are unworthy of their fame; being of
miserable sculpture; the work probably of some Christian captive。
The court is laid out in flower…beds; instead of its ancient and
appropriate pavement of tiles or marble; the alteration; an instance
of bad taste; was made by the French when in possession of Granada。
Round the four sides of the court are light Arabian arcades of open
filigree work supported by slender pillars of white marble; which it
is supposed were originally gilded。 The architecture; like that in
most parts of the interior of the palace; is characterized by
elegance; rather than grandeur; bespeaking a delicate and graceful
taste; and a disposition to indolent enjoyment。 When one looks upon
the fairy traces of the peristyles; and the apparently fragile
fretwork of the walls; it is difficult to believe that so much has
survived the wear and tear of centuries; the shocks of earthquakes;
the violence of war; and the quiet; though no less baneful; pilferings
of the tasteful traveller; it is almost sufficient to excuse the
popular tradition that the whole is protected by a magic charm。
On one side of the court a rich portal opens into the Hall of the
Abencerrages; so called from the gallant cavaliers of that illustrious
line who were here perfidiously massacred。 There are some who doubt
the whole story; but our humble cicerone Mateo pointed out the very
wicket of the portal through which they were introduced one by one
into the Court of Lions; and the white marble fountain in the centre
of the hall beside which they were beheaded。 He showed us also certain
broad ruddy stains on the pavement; traces of their blood; which;
according to popular belief; can never be effaced。
Finding we listened to him apparently with easy faith; he added;
that there was often heard at night; in the Court of Lions; a low
confused sound; resembling the murmuring of a multitude; and now and
then a faint tinkling; like the distant clank of chains。 These
sounds were made by the spirits of the murdered Abencerrages; who
nightly haunt the scene of their suffering and invoke the vengeance of
Heaven on their destroyer。
The sounds in question had no doubt been produced; as I had
afterwards an opportunity of ascertaining; by the bubbling currents
and tinkling falls of water conducted under the pavement through pipes
and channels to supply the fountains; but I was too considerate to
intimate such an idea to the humble chronicler of the Alhambra。
Encouraged by my easy credulity; Mateo gave me the following as an
undoubted fact; which he had from his grandfather:
There was once an invalid soldier; who had charge of the Alhambra to
show it to strangers: as he was one evening; about twilight; passing
through the Court of Lions; he heard footsteps on the Hall of the
Abencerrages; supposing some strangers to be lingering there; he
advanced to attend upon them; when to his astonishment he beheld
four Moors richly dressed; with gilded cuirasses and cimeters; and
poniards glittering with precious stones。 They were walking to and
fro; with solemn pace; but paused and beckoned to him。 The old
soldier; however; took to flight; and could never afterwards be
prevailed upon to enter the Alhambra。 Thus it is that men sometimes
turn their backs upon fortune; for it is the firm opinion of Mateo;
that the Moors intended to reveal the place where their treasures
lay buried。 A successor to the invalid soldier was more knowing; he
came to the Alhambra poor; but at the end of a year went off to
Malaga; bought houses; set up a carriage; and still lives there one of
the richest as well as oldest men of the place; all which; Mateo
sagely surmised; was in consequence of his finding out the golden
secret of the
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