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part02-第2部分

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Arabian arch; of the horseshoe form; which springs to half the

height of the tower。 On the keystone of this arch is engraven a

gigantic hand。 Within the vestibule; on the keystone of the portal; is

sculptured; in like manner; a gigantic key。 Those who pretend to

some knowledge of Mohammedan symbols; affirm that the hand is the

emblem of doctrine; the five fingers designating the five principal

commandments of the creed of Islam; fasting; pilgrimage;

alms…giving; ablution; and war against infidels。 The key; say they; is

the emblem of the faith or of power; the key of Daoud or David;

transmitted to the prophet。 〃And the key of the house of David will

I lay upon his shoulder; so he shall open and none shall shut; and

he shall shut and none shall open。〃 (Isaiah xxii。 22。) The key we

are told was emblazoned on the standard of the Moslems in opposition

to the Christian emblem of the cross; when they subdued Spain or

Andalusia。 It betokened the conquering power invested in the

prophet。 〃He that hath the key of David; he that openeth and no man

shutteth; and shutteth and no man openeth。〃 (Rev。 iii。 7。)

  A different explanation of these emblems; however; was given by

the legitimate son of the Alhambra; and one more in unison with the

notions of the common people; who attach something of mystery and

magic to every thing Moorish; and have all kind of superstitions

connected with this old Moslem fortress。 According to Mateo; it was

a tradition handed down from the oldest inhabitants; and which he

had from his father and grandfather; that the hand and key were

magical devices on which the fate of the Alhambra depended。 The

Moorish king who built it was a great magician; or; as some

believed; had sold himself to the devil; and had laid the whole

fortress under a magic spell。 By this means it had remained standing

for several hundred years; in defiance of storms and earthquakes;

while almost all other buildings of the Moors had fallen to ruin;

and disappeared。 This spell; the tradition went on to say; would

last until the hand on the outer arch should reach down and grasp

the key; when the whole pile would tumble to pieces; and all the

treasures buried beneath it by the Moors would be revealed。

  Notwithstanding this ominous prediction; we ventured to pass through

the spell…bound gateway; feeling some little assurance against magic

art in the protection of the Virgin; a statue of whom we observed

above the portal。

  After passing through the barbican; we ascended a narrow lane;

winding between walls; and came on an open esplanade within the

fortress; called the Plaza de los Algibes; or Place of the Cisterns;

from great reservoirs which undermine it; cut in the living rock by

the Moors to receive the water brought by conduits from the Darro; for

the supply of the fortress。 Here; also; is a well of immense depth;

furnishing the purest and coldest of water; another monument of the

delicate taste of the Moors; who were indefatigable in their exertions

to obtain that element in its crystal purity。

  In front of this esplanade is the splendid pile commenced by Charles

V; and intended; it is said; to eclipse the residence of the Moorish

kings。 Much of the oriental edifice intended for the winter season was

demolished to make way for this massive pile。 The grand entrance was

blocked up; so that the present entrance to the Moorish palace is

through a simple and almost humble portal in a corner。 With all the

massive grandeur and architectural merit of the palace of Charles V;

we regarded it as an arrogant intruder; and passing by it with a

feeling almost of scorn; rang at the Moslem portal。

  While waiting for admittance; our self…imposed cicerone; Mateo

Ximenes; informed us that the royal palace was intrusted to the care

of a worthy old maiden dame called Dona Antonia…Molina; but who;

according to Spanish custom; went by the more neighborly appellation

of Tia Antonia (Aunt Antonia); who maintained the Moorish halls and

gardens in order and showed them to strangers。 While we were

talking; the door was opened by a plump little black…eyed Andalusian

damsel; whom Mateo addressed as Dolores; but who from her bright looks

and cheerful disposition evidently merited a merrier name。 Mateo

informed me in a whisper that she was the niece of Tia Antonia; and

I found she was the good fairy who was to conduct us through the

enchanted palace。 Under her guidance we crossed the threshold; and

were at once transported; as if by magic wand; into other times and an

oriental realm; and were treading the scenes of Arabian story。 Nothing

could be in greater contrast than the unpromising exterior of the pile

with the scene now before us。

  We found ourselves in a vast patio or court one hundred and fifty

feet in length; and upwards of eighty feet in breadth; paved with

white marble; and decorated at each end with light Moorish peristyles;

one of which supported an elegant gallery of fretted architecture。

Along the mouldings of the cornices and on various parts of the

walls were escutcheons and ciphers; and cufic and Arabic characters in

high relief; repeating the pious mottoes of the Moslem monarchs; the

builders of the Alhambra; or extolling their grandeur and munificence。

Along the centre of the court extended an immense basin or tank

(estanque) a hundred and twenty…four feet in length; twenty…seven in

breadth; and five in depth; receiving its water from two marble vases。

Hence it is called the Court of the Alberca (from al Beerkah; the

Arabic for a pond or tank)。 Great numbers of gold…fish were to be seen

gleaming through the waters of the basin; and it was bordered by

hedges of roses。

  Passing from the Court of the Alberca under a Moorish archway; we

entered the renowned Court of Lions。 No part of the edifice gives a

more complete idea of its original beauty than this; for none has

suffered so little from the ravages of time。 In the centre stands

the fountain famous in song and story。 The alabaster basins still shed

their diamond drops; the twelve lions which support them; and give the

court its name; still cast forth crystal streams as in the days of

Boabdil。 The lions; however; are unworthy of their fame; being of

miserable sculpture; the work probably of some Christian captive。

The court is laid out in flower…beds; instead of its ancient and

appropriate pavement of tiles or marble; the alteration; an instance

of bad taste; was made by the French when in possession of Granada。

Round the four sides of the court are light Arabian arcades of open

filigree work supported by slender pillars of white marble; which it

is supposed were originally gilded。 The architecture; like that in

most parts of the interior of the palace; is characterized by

elegance; rather than grandeur; bespeaking a delicate and graceful

taste; and a disposition to indolent enjoyment。 When one looks upon

the fairy traces of the peristyles; and the apparently fragile

fretwork of the walls; it is difficult to believe that so much has

survived the wear and tear of centuries; the shocks of earthquakes;

the violence of war; and the quiet; though no less baneful; pilferings

of the tasteful traveller; it is almost sufficient to excuse the

popular tradition that the whole is protected by a magic charm。

  On one side of the court a rich portal opens into the Hall of the

Abencerrages; so called from the gallant cavaliers of that illustrious

line who were here perfidiously massacred。 There are some who doubt

the whole story; but our humble cicerone Mateo pointed out the very

wicket of the portal through which they were introduced one by one

into the Court of Lions; and the white marble fountain in the centre

of the hall beside which they were beheaded。 He showed us also certain

broad ruddy stains on the pavement; traces of their blood; which;

according to popular belief; can never be effaced。

  Finding we listened to him apparently with easy faith; he added;

that there was often heard at night; in the Court of Lions; a low

confused sound; resembling the murmuring of a multitude; and now and

then a faint tinkling; like the distant clank of chains。 These

sounds were made by the spirits of the murdered Abencerrages; who

nightly haunt the scene of their suffering and invoke the vengeance of

Heaven on their destroyer。

  The sounds in question had no doubt been produced; as I had

afterwards an opportunity of ascertaining; by the bubbling currents

and tinkling falls of water conducted under the pavement through pipes

and channels to supply the fountains; but I was too considerate to

intimate such an idea to the humble chronicler of the Alhambra。

  Encouraged by my easy credulity; Mateo gave me the following as an

undoubted fact; which he had from his grandfather:

  There was once an invalid soldier; who had charge of the Alhambra to

show it to strangers: as he was one evening; about twilight; passing

through the Court of Lions; he heard footsteps on the Hall of the

Abencerrages; supposing some strangers to be lingering there; he

advanced to attend upon them; when to his astonishment he beheld

four Moors richly dressed; with gilded cuirasses and cimeters; and

poniards glittering with precious stones。 They were walking to and

fro; with solemn pace; but paused and beckoned to him。 The old

soldier; however; took to flight; and could never afterwards be

prevailed upon to enter the Alhambra。 Thus it is that men sometimes

turn their backs upon fortune; for it is the firm opinion of Mateo;

that the Moors intended to reveal the place where their treasures

lay buried。 A successor to the invalid soldier was more knowing; he

came to the Alhambra poor; but at the end of a year went off to

Malaga; bought houses; set up a carriage; and still lives there one of

the richest as well as oldest men of the place; all which; Mateo

sagely surmised; was in consequence of his finding out the golden

secret of the
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