part02-第3部分

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sagely　surmised；　was　in　consequence　of　his　finding　out　the　golden

secret　of　these　phantom　Moors。

　　I　now　perceived　I　had　made　an　invaluable　acquaintance　in　this　son　of

the　Alhambra；　one　who　knew　all　the　apocryphal　history　of　the　place；

and　firmly　believed　in　it；　and　whose　memory　was　stuffed　with　a　kind　of

knowledge　for　which　I　have　a　lurking　fancy；　but　which　is　too　apt　to　be

considered　rubbish　by　less　indulgent　philosophers。　I　determined　to

cultivate　the　acquaintance　of　this　learned　Theban。

　　Immediately　opposite　the　Hall　of　the　Abencerrages　a　portal；　richly

adorned；　leads　into　a　hall　of　less　tragical　associations。　It　is

light　and　lofty；　exquisitely　graceful　in　its　architecture；　paved

with　white　marble；　and　bears　the　suggestive　name　of　the　Hall　of　the

Two　Sisters。　Some　destroy　the　romance　of　the　name　by　attributing　it　to

two　enormous　slabs　of　alabaster　which　lie　side　by　side；　and　form　a

great　part　of　the　pavement；　an　opinion　strongly　supported　by　Mateo

Ximenes。　Others　are　disposed　to　give　the　name　a　more　poetical

significance；　as　the　vague　memorial　of　Moorish　beauties　who　once

graced　this　hall；　which　was　evidently　a　part　of　the　royal　harem。

This　opinion　I　was　happy　to　find　entertained　by　our　little　bright…eyed

guide；　Dolores；　who　pointed　to　a　balcony　over　an　inner　porch；　which

gallery；　she　had　been　told；　belonged　to　the　women's　apartment。　〃You

see；　senor；〃　said　she；　〃it　is　all　grated　and　latticed；　like　the

gallery　in　a　convent　chapel　where　the　nuns　hear　mass；　for　the

Moorish　kings；〃　added　she；　indignantly；　〃shut　up　their　wives　just　like

nuns。〃

　　The　latticed　〃jalousies；〃　in　fact；　still　remain；　whence　the

dark…eyed　beauties　of　the　harem　might　gaze　unseen　upon　the　zambras　and

other　dances　and　entertainments　of　the　hall　below。

　　On　each　side　of　this　hall　are　recesses　or　alcoves　for　ottomans　and

couches；　on　which　the　voluptuous　lords　of　the　Alhambra　indulged　in

that　dreamy　repose　so　dear　to　the　Orientalists。　A　cupola　or　lantern

admits　a　tempered　light　from　above　and　a　free　circulation　of　air；

while　on　one　side　is　heard　the　refreshing　sound　of　waters　from　the

fountain　of　the　lions；　and　on　the　other　side　the　soft　plash　from　the

basin　in　the　garden　of　Lindaraxa。

　　It　is　impossible　to　contemplate　this　scene　so　perfectly　Oriental

without　feeling　the　early　associations　of　Arabian　romance；　and

almost　expecting　to　see　the　white　arm　of　some　mysterious　princess

beckoning　from　the　gallery；　or　some　dark　eye　sparkling　through　the

lattice。　The　abode　of　beauty　is　here；　as　if　it　had　been　inhabited

but　yesterday；　but　where　are　the　two　sisters；　where　the　Zoraydas　and

Lindaraxas！

　　An　abundant　supply　of　water；　brought　from　the　mountains　by　old

Moorish　aqueducts；　circulates　throughout　the　palace；　supplying　its

baths　and　fishpools；　sparkling　in　jets　within　its　halls；　or

murmuring　in　channels　along　the　marble　pavements。　When　it　has　paid　its

tribute　to　the　royal　pile；　and　visited　its　gardens　and　parterres；　it

flows　down　the　long　avenue　leading　to　the　city；　tinkling　in　rills；

gushing　in　fountains；　and　maintaining　a　perpetual　verdure　in　those

groves　that　embower　and　beautify　the　whole　hill　of　the　Alhambra。

　　Those　only　who　have　sojourned　in　the　ardent　climates　of　the　South；

can　appreciate　the　delights　of　an　abode；　combining　the　breezy　coolness

of　the　mountain　with　the　freshness　and　verdure　of　the　valley。　While

the　city　below　pants　with　the　noontide　heat；　and　the　parched　Vega

trembles　to　the　eye；　the　delicate　airs　from　the　Sierra　Nevada　play

through　these　lofty　halls；　bringing　with　them　the　sweetness　of　the

surrounding　gardens。　Every　thing　invites　to　that　indolent　repose；

the　bliss　of　southern　climes；　and　while　the　half…shut　eye　looks　out

from　shaded　balconies　upon　the　glittering　landscape；　the　ear　is　lulled

by　the　rustling　of　groves；　and　the　murmur　of　running　streams。

　　I　forbear　for　the　present；　however；　to　describe　the　other　delightful

apartments　of　the　palace。　My　object　is　merely　to　give　the　reader　a

general　introduction　into　an　abode　where；　if　so　disposed；　he　may

linger　and　loiter　with　me　day　by　day　until　we　gradually　become

familiar　with　all　its　localities。



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Note　on　Morisco　Architecture



　　To　an　unpractised　eye　the　light　relievos　and　fanciful　arabesques

which　cover　the　walls　of　the　Alhambra　appear　to　have　been　sculptured

by　the　hand；　with　a　minute　and　patient　labor；　an　inexhaustible　variety

of　detail；　yet　a　general　uniformity　and　harmony　of　design　truly

astonishing；　and　this　may　especially　be　said　of　the　vaults　and

cupolas；　which　are　wrought　like　honey…combs；　or　frostwork；　with

stalactites　and　pendants　which　confound　the　beholder　with　the

seeming　intricacy　of　their　patterns。　The　astonishment　ceases；　however；

when　it　is　discovered　that　this　is　all　stucco…work：　plates　of

plaster　of　Paris；　cast　in　moulds　and　skilfully　joined　so　as　to　form

patterns　of　every　size　and　form。　This　mode　of　diapering　walls　with

arabesques　and　stuccoing　the　vaults　with　grotto…work；　was　invented

in　Damascus；　but　highly　improved　by　the　Moors　in　Morocco；　to　whom

Saracenic　architecture　owes　its　most　graceful　and　fanciful　details。

The　process　by　which　all　this　fairy　tracery　was　produced　was

ingeniously　simple：　The　wall　in　its　naked　state　was　divided　off　by

lines　crossing　at　right　angles；　such　as　artists　use　in　copying　a

picture；　over　these　were　drawn　a　succession　of　intersecting　segments

of　circles。　By　the　aid　of　these　the　artists　could　work　with　celerity

and　certainty；　and　from　the　mere　intersection　of　the　plain　and

curved　lines　arose　the　interminable　variety　of　patterns　and　the

general　uniformity　of　their　character。

　　Much　gilding　was　used　in　the　stucco…work；　especially　of　the　cupolas：

and　the　interstices　were　delicately　pencilled　with　brilliant　colors；

such　as　vermilion　and　lapis　lazuli；　laid　on　with　the　whites　of　eggs。

The　primitive　colors　alone　were　used；　says　Ford；　by　the　Egyptians；

Greeks；　and　Arabs；　in　the　early　period　of　art；　and　they　prevail　in　the

Alhambra　whenever　the　artist　has　been　Arabic　or　Moorish。　It　is

remarkable　how　much　of　their　original　brilliancy　remains　after　the

lapse　of　several　centuries。

　　The　lower　part　of　the　walls　in　the　saloons；　to　the　height　of　several

feet；　is　incrusted　with　glazed　tiles；　joined　like　the　plates　of

stucco…work；　so　as　to　form　various　patterns。　On　some　of　them　are

emblazoned　the　escutcheons　of　the　Moslem　kings；　traversed　with　a

band　and　motto。　These　glazed　tiles　（azulejos　in　Spanish；　az…zulaj　in

Arabic）　are　of　Oriental　origin；　their　coolness；　cleanliness；　and

freedom　from　vermin；　render　them　admirably　fitted　in　sultry　climates

for　paving　halls　and　fountains；　incrusting　bathing　rooms；　and　lining

the　walls　of　chambers。　Ford　is　inclined　to　give　them　great

antiquity。　From　their　prevailing　colors；　sapphire　and　blue；　he　deduces

that　they　may　have　formed　the　kind　of　pavements　alluded　to　in　the

sacred　Scriptures…　〃There　was　under　his　feet　as　it　were　a　paved　work

of　a　sapphire　stone〃　（Exod。　xxiv。　10）；　and　again；　〃Behold　I　will　lay

thy　stones　with　fair　colors；　and　lay　thy　foundations　with

sapphires。〃　（Isaiah　liv。　11。）

　　These　glazed　or　porcelain　tiles　were　introduced　into　Spain　at　an

early　date　by　the　Moslems。　Some　are　to　be　seen　among　the　Moorish　ruins

which　have　been　there　upwards　of　eight　centuries。　Manufactures　of　them

still　exist　in　the　peninsula；　and　they　are　much　used　in　the　best

Spanish　houses；　especially　in　the　southern　provinces；　for　paving　and

lining　the　summer　apartments。

　　The　Spaniards　introduced　them　into　the　Netherlands　when　they　had

possession　of　that　country。　The　people　of　Holland　adopted　them　with

avidity；　as　wonderfully　suited　to　their　passion　for　household

cleanliness；　and　thus　these　Oriental　inventions；　the　azulejos　of　the

Spanish；　the　az…zulaj　of　the　Arabs；　have　come　to　be　commonly　known

as　Dutch　tiles。

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Important　Negotiations。



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　The　Author　Succeeds　to　the

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Throne　of　Boabdil。



　　THE　DAY　was　nearly　spent　before　we　could　tear　ourselves　from　this

region　of　poetry　and　romance　to　descend　to　the　city　and　return　to

the　forlorn　realities　of　a　Spanish　posada。　In　a　visit　of　ceremony　to

the　Governor　of　the　Alhambra；　to　whom　we　had　brought　letters；　we　dwelt

with　enthusiasm　on　the　scenes　we　had　witnessed；　and　could　not　but

express　surprise　that　he　should　reside　in　the　city　when　he　had　such

a　paradise　at　his　command。　He　pleaded　the　inconvenience　of　a　residence

in　the　palace　from　its　situation　on　the　crest　of　a　hill；　distant

from　the　seat　of　business　and　the　resorts　of　social　intercourse。　It

did　very　well　for　monarchs；　who　often　had　need　of　castle　walls　to

defend　them　from　their　own　subjects。　〃But　senores；〃　added　he；　smiling；

〃if　you　think　a　residence　there　so　desirable；　my　apartments　in　the

Alhambra　are　at　your　service。〃

　　It　is　a　common　and　almost　indispensable　point　of　politeness　in　a

Spaniard；　to　tell　you　his　house　is　yours。…　〃Esta　casa　es　siempre　a

la　disposicion　de　Vm。〃　〃This　house　is　always　at　the　command　of　your

Grace。〃　In　fact；　any　thing　of　his　which　you　admire；　is　immediately

offered　to　you。　It　is　equally　a　mark　of　good　breeding　in　you　not　to

accept　it；　so　we　merely　bowed　our　acknowledgments　of　the　courtesy　of

the　Governor　in　offering　us　a　royal　palace。　We　were　mistaken；　however。

The　Governor　was　in　earnest。　〃You　will　find　a　rambling　set　of　empty；

unfurnished　rooms；〃　said　he；　〃but　Tia　Antonia；　who　has　charge　of　the

palace；　may　be　able　to　put　them　in　some　kind　of　order；　and　to　take

care　of　you　while　you　are　there。　If　you　can　make　any　arrangement

with　her　for　your　accommodation；　and　are　content　with　scanty　fare　in　a

royal　abode；　the　palace　of　King　Chico　is　at　your　service。〃

　　We　took　the　Governor　at　his　word；　and　hastened　up　the　steep　Calle　de

los　Gomeres；　and　through　the　Great　Gate　of　Justice；　to　negotiate

with　Dame　Antonia；　doubting　at　times　if　this　were　not　a　dream；　and

fearing　at　times　that　the　sage　Duena