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tour through the eastern counties of england-第14部分

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into warmer climates; and as I think the following remark; though

of so trifling a circumstance; may be both instructing as well as

diverting; it may be very proper in this place。  The case is this;

I was some years before at this place; at the latter end of the

year; viz。; about the beginning of October; and lodging in a house

that looked into the churchyard; I observed in the evening; an

unusual multitude of birds sitting on the leads of the church。

Curiosity led me to go nearer to see what they were; and I found

they were all swallows; that there was such an infinite number that

they covered the whole roof of the church; and of several houses

near; and perhaps might of more houses which I did not see。  This

led me to inquire of a grave gentleman whom I saw near me; what the

meaning was of such a prodigious multitude of swallows sitting

there。  〃Oh; sir;〃 says he; turning towards the sea; 〃you may see

the reason; the wind is off sea。〃  I did not seem fully informed by

that expression; so he goes on; 〃I perceive; sir;〃 says he; 〃you

are a stranger to it; you must then understand first; that this is

the season of the year when the swallows; their food here failing;

begin to leave us; and return to the country; wherever it be; from

whence I suppose they came; and this being the nearest to the coast

of Holland; they come here to embark〃 (this he said smiling a

little); 〃and now; sir;〃 says he; 〃the weather being too calm or

the wind contrary; they are waiting for a gale; for they are all

wind…bound。〃



This was more evident to me; when in the morning I found the wind

had come about to the north…west in the night; and there was not

one swallow to be seen of near a million; which I believe was there

the night before。



How those creatures know that this part of the Island of Great

Britain is the way to their home; or the way that they are to go;

that this very point is the nearest cut over; or even that the

nearest cut is best for them; that we must leave to the naturalists

to determine; who insist upon it that brutes cannot think。



Certain it is that the swallows neither come hither for warm

weather nor retire from cold; the thing is of quite another nature。

They; like the shoals of fish in the sea; pursue their prey; they

are a voracious creature; they feed flying; their food is found in

the air; viz。; the insects; of which in our summer evenings; in

damp and moist places; the air is full。  They come hither in the

summer because our air is fuller of fogs and damps than in other

countries; and for that reason feeds great quantities of insects。

If the air be hot and dry the gnats die of themselves; and even the

swallows will be found famished for want; and fall down dead out of

the air; their food being taken from them。  In like manner; when

cold weather comes in the insects all die; and then of necessity

the swallows quit us; and follow their food wherever they go。  This

they do in the manner I have mentioned above; for sometimes they

are seen to go off in vast flights like a cloud。  And sometimes

again; when the wind grows fair; they go away a few and a few as

they come; not staying at all upon the coast。



Note。 … This passing and re…passing of the swallows is observed

nowhere so much; that I have heard of; or in but few other places;

except on this eastern coast; namely; from above Harwich to the

east point of Norfolk; called Winterton Ness; North; which is all

right against Holland。  We know nothing of them any farther north;

the passage of the sea being; as I suppose; too broad from

Flamborough Head and the shore of Holderness in Yorkshire; etc。



I find very little remarkable on this side of Suffolk; but what is

on the sea…shore as above。  The inland country is that which they

properly call High Suffolk; and is full of rich feeding grounds and

large farms; mostly employed in dairies for making the Suffolk

butter and cheese; of which I have spoken already。  Among these

rich grounds stand some market towns; though not of very

considerable note; such as Framlingham; where was once a royal

castle; to which Queen Mary retired when the Northumberland

faction; in behalf of the Lady Jane; endeavoured to supplant her。

And it was this part of Suffolk where the Gospellers; as they were

then called; preferred their loyalty to their religion; and

complimented the Popish line at expense of their share of the

Reformation。  But they paid dear for it; and their successors have

learned better politics since。



In these parts are also several good market towns; some in this

county and some in the other; as Beccles; Bungay; Harlston; etc。;

all on the edge of the River Waveney; which parts here the counties

of Suffolk and Norfolk。  And here in a bye…place; and out of common

remark; lies the ancient town of Hoxon; famous for being the place

where St。 Edmund was martyred; for whom so many cells and shrines

have been set up and monasteries built; and in honour of whom the

famous monastery of St。 Edmundsbury; above mentioned; was founded;

which most people erroneously think was the place where the said

murder was committed。



Besides the towns mentioned above; there are Halesworth;

Saxmundham; Debenham; Aye; or Eye; all standing in this eastern

side of Suffolk; in which; as I have said; the whole country is

employed in dairies or in feeding of cattle。



This part of England is also remarkable for being the first where

the feeding and fattening of cattle; both sheep as well as black

cattle; with turnips; was first practised in England; which is made

a very great part of the improvement of their lands to this day;

and from whence the practice is spread over most of the east and

south parts of England to the great enriching of the farmers and

increase of fat cattle。  And though some have objected against the

goodness of the flesh thus fed with turnips; and have fancied it

would taste of the root; yet upon experience it is found that at

market there is no difference; nor can they that buy single out one

joint of mutton from another by the taste。  So that the complaint

which our nice palates at first made begins to cease of itself; and

a very great quantity of beef and mutton also is brought every year

and every week to London from this side of England; and much more

than was formerly known to be fed there。



I cannot omit; however little it may seem; that this county of

Suffolk is particularly famous for furnishing the City of London

and all the counties round with turkeys; and that it is thought

there are more turkeys bred in this county and the part of Norfolk

that adjoins to it than in all the rest of England; especially for

sale; though this may be reckoned; as I say above; but a trifling

thing to take notice of in these remarks; yet; as I have hinted;

that I shall observe how London is in general supplied with all its

provisions from the whole body of the nation; and how every part of

the island is engaged in some degree or other of that supply。  On

this account I could not omit it; nor will it be found so

inconsiderable an article as some may imagine; if this be true;

which I received an account of from a person living on the place;

viz。; that they have counted three hundred droves of turkeys (for

they drive them all in droves on foot) pass in one season over

Stratford Bridge on the River Stour; which parts Suffolk from

Essex; about six miles from Colchester; on the road from Ipswich to

London。  These droves; as they say; generally contain from three

hundred to a thousand each drove; so that one may suppose them to

contain five hundred one with another; which is one hundred and

fifty thousand in all; and yet this is one of the least passages;

the numbers which travel by Newmarket Heath and the open country

and the forest; and also the numbers that come by Sudbury and Clare

being many more。



For the further supplies of the markets of London with poultry; of

which these countries particularly abound; they have within these

few years found it practicable to make the geese travel on foot

too; as well as the turkeys; and a prodigious number are brought up

to London in droves from the farthest parts of Norfolk; even from

the fen country about Lynn; Downham; Wisbech; and the Washes; as

also from all the east side of Norfolk and Suffolk; of whom it is

very frequent now to meet droves with a thousand; sometimes two

thousand in a drove。  They begin to drive them generally in August;

by which time the harvest is almost over; and the geese may feed in

the stubbles as they go。  Thus they hold on to the end of October;

when the roads begin to be too stiff and deep for their broad feet

and short legs to march in。



Besides these methods of driving these creatures on foot; they have

of late also invented a new method of carriage; being carts formed

on purpose; with four stories or stages to put the creatures in one

above another; by which invention one cart will carry a very great

number; and for the smoother going they drive with two horses

abreast; like a coach; so quartering the road for the ease of the

gentry that thus ride。  Changing horses; they travel night and day;

so that they bring the fowls seventy; eighty; or; one hundred miles

in two days and one night。  The horses in this new…fashioned

voiture go two abreast; as above; but no perch below; as in a

coach; but they are fastened together by a piece of wood lying

crosswise upon their necks; by which they are kept even and

together; and the driver sits on the top of the cart like as in the

public carriages for the army; etc。



In this manner they hurry away the creatures alive; and infinite

numbers are thus carried to London every year。  This method is also

particular for the carrying young turkeys or turkey poults in their

season; which are valuable; and yield a good price at market; as

also for live chickens in the dear seasons; of al
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