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tour through the eastern counties of england-第15部分
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also for live chickens in the dear seasons; of all which a very
great number are brought in this manner to London; and more
prodigiously out of this country than any other part of England;
which is the reason of my speaking of it here。
In this part; which we call High Suffolk; there are not so many
families of gentry or nobility placed as in the other side of the
country。 But it is observed that though their seats are not so
frequent here; their estates are; and the pleasure of West Suffolk
is much of it supported by the wealth of High Suffolk; for the
richness of the lands and application of the people to all kinds of
improvement is scarce credible; also the farmers are so very
considerable and their farms and dairies so large that it is very
frequent for a farmer to have 1;000 pounds stock upon his farm in
cows only。
NORFOLK。
From High Suffolk I passed the Waveney into Norfolk; near Schole
Inn。 In my passage I saw at Redgrave (the seat of the family) a
most exquisite monument of Sir John Holt; Knight; late Lord Chief
Justice of the King's Bench several years; and one of the most
eminent lawyers of his time。 One of the heirs of the family is now
building a fine seat about a mile on the south side of Ipswich;
near the road。
The epitaph or inscription on this monument is as follows:…
M。 S。
D。 Johannis Holt; Equitis Aur。
Totius Anglioe in Banco Regis
per 21 Annos continuos
Capitalis Justitiarii
Gulielmo Regi Annoequr Reginae
Consiliarii perpetui:
Libertatis ac Legum Anglicarum
Assertoris; Vindicis; Custodis;
Vigilis Acris & intrepidi;
Rolandus Frater Uncius & Hoeres
Optime de se Merito
posuit;
Die Martis Vto。 1709。 Sublatus est
ex Oculis nostris
Natus 30 Decembris; Anno 1642。
When we come into Norfolk; we see a face of diligence spread over
the whole country; the vast manufactures carried on (in chief) by
the Norwich weavers employs all the country round in spinning yarn
for them; besides many thousand packs of yarn which they receive
from other countries; even from as far as Yorkshire and
Westmoreland; of which I shall speak in its place。
This side of Norfolk is very populous; and thronged with great and
spacious market…towns; more and larger than any other part of
England so far from London; except Devonshire; and the West Riding
of Yorkshire; for example; between the frontiers of Suffolk and the
city of Norwich on this side; which is not above 22 miles in
breadth; are the following market…towns; viz。:…
Thetford; Hingham; Harleston;
Diss; West Dereham; E。 Dereham;
Harling; Attleborough; Watton;
Bucknam; Windham; Loddon; etc。
Most of these towns are very populous and large; but that which is
most remarkable is; that the whole country round them is so
interspersed with villages; and those villages so large; and so
full of people; that they are equal to market…towns in other
countries; in a word; they render this eastern part of Norfolk
exceeding full of inhabitants。
An eminent weaver of Norwich gave me a scheme of their trade on
this occasion; by which; calculating from the number of looms at
that time employed in the city of Norwich only; besides those
employed in other towns in the same county; he made it appear very
plain; that there were 120;000 people employed in the woollen and
silk and wool manufactures of that city only; not that the people
all lived in the city; though Norwich is a very large and populous
city too: but; I say; they were employed for spinning the yarn used
for such goods as were all made in that city。 This account is
curious enough; and very exact; but it is too long for the compass
of this work。
This shows the wonderful extent of the Norwich manufacture; or
stuff…weaving trade; by which so many thousands of families are
maintained。 Their trade; indeed; felt a very sensible decay; and
the cries of the poor began to be very loud; when the wearing of
painted calicoes was grown to such a height in England; as was seen
about two or three years ago; but an Act of Parliament having been
obtained; though not without great struggle; in the years 1720 and
1721; for prohibiting the use and wearing of calicoes; the stuff
trade revived incredibly; and as I passed this part of the country
in the year 1723; the manufacturers assured me that there was not;
in all the eastern and middle part of Norfolk; any hand unemployed;
if they would work; and that the very children; after four or five
years of age; could every one earn their own bread。 But I return
to speak of the villages and towns in the rest of the county; I
shall come to the city of Norwich by itself。
This throng of villages continues through all the east part of the
country; which is of the greatest extent; and where the manufacture
is chiefly carried on。 If any part of it be waste and thin of
inhabitants; it is the west part; drawing a line from about Brand;
or Brandon; south; to Walsinghan; north。 This part of the country
indeed is full of open plains; and somewhat sandy and barren; and
feeds great flocks of good sheep; but put it all together; the
county of Norfolk has the most people in the least tract of land of
any county in England; except about London; and Exon; and the West
Riding of Yorkshire; as above。
Add to this; that there is no single county in England; except as
above; that can boast of three towns so populous; so rich; and so
famous for trade and navigation; as in this county。 By these three
towns; I mean the city of Norwich; the towns of Yarmouth and Lynn。
Besides that; it has several other seaports of very good trade; as
Wisbech; Wells; Burnham; Clye; etc。
Norwich is the capital of all the county; and the centre of all the
trade and manufactures which I have just mentioned; an ancient;
large; rich; and populous city。 If a stranger was only to ride
through or view the city of Norwich for a day; he would have much
more reason to think there was a town without inhabitants; than
there is really to say so of Ipswich; but on the contrary if he was
to view the city; either on a Sabbath…day; or on any public
occasion; he would wonder where all the people could dwell; the
multitude is so great。 But the case is this: the inhabitants being
all busy at their manufactures; dwell in their garrets at their
looms; and in their combing shops (so they call them); twisting…
mills; and other work…houses; almost all the works they are
employed in being done within doors。 There are in this city
thirty…two parishes besides the cathedral; and a great many
meeting…houses of Dissenters of all denominations。 The public
edifices are chiefly the castle; ancient and decayed; and now for
many years past made use of for a gaol。 The Duke of Norfolk's
house was formerly kept well; and the gardens preserved for the
pleasure and diversion of the citizens; but since feeling too
sensibly the sinking circumstances of that once glorious family;
who were the first peers and hereditary earl…marshals of England。
The walls of this city are reckoned three miles in circumference;
taking in more ground than the City of London; but much of that
ground lying open in pasture…fields and gardens; nor does it seem
to be; like some ancient places; a decayed; declining town; and
that the walls mark out its ancient dimensions; for we do not see
room to suppose that it was ever larger or more populous than it is
now。 But the walls seem to be placed as if they expected that the
city would in time increase sufficiently to fill them up with
buildings。
The cathedral of this city is a fine fabric; and the spire steeple
very high and beautiful。 It is not ancient; the bishop's see
having been first at Thetford; from whence it was not translated
hither till the twelfth century。 Yet the church has so many
antiquities in it; that our late great scholar and physician; Sir
Thomas Brown; thought it worth his while to write a whole book to
collect the monuments and inscriptions in this church; to which I
refer the reader。
The River Yare runs through this city; and is navigable thus far
without the help of any art (that is to say; without locks or
stops); and being increased by other waters; passes afterwards
through a long tract of the richest meadows; and the largest; take
them all together; that are anywhere in England; lying for thirty
miles in length; from this city to Yarmouth; including the return
of the said meadows on the bank of the Waveney south; and on the
River Thyrn north。
Here is one thing indeed strange in itself; and more so; in that
history seems to be quite ignorant of the occasion of it。 The
River Waveney is a considerable river; and of a deep and full
channel; navigable for large barges as high as Beccles; it runs for
a course of about fifty miles; between the two counties of Suffolk
and Norfolk; as a boundary to both; and pushing on; though with a
gentle stream; towards the sea; no one would doubt; but; that when
they see the river growing broader and deeper; and going directly
towards the sea; even to the edge of the beach … that is to say;
within a mile of the main ocean … no stranger; I say; but would
expect to see its entrance into the sea at that place; and a noble
harbour for ships at the mouth of it; when on a sudden; the land
rising high by the seaside; crosses the head of the river; like a
dam; checks the whole course of it; and it returns; bending its
course west; for two miles; or thereabouts; and then turning north;
through another long course of meadows (joining to those just now
mentioned) seeks out the River Yare; that it may join its water
with hers; and find their way to the sea together
Some of our historians tell a long; fabulous story of this river
being once open; and a famous harbour for ships belonging to a town
of Lowestoft adjoining; but that the town of Yarmouth en
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