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tour through the eastern counties of england-第15部分

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also for live chickens in the dear seasons; of all which a very

great number are brought in this manner to London; and more

prodigiously out of this country than any other part of England;

which is the reason of my speaking of it here。



In this part; which we call High Suffolk; there are not so many

families of gentry or nobility placed as in the other side of the

country。  But it is observed that though their seats are not so

frequent here; their estates are; and the pleasure of West Suffolk

is much of it supported by the wealth of High Suffolk; for the

richness of the lands and application of the people to all kinds of

improvement is scarce credible; also the farmers are so very

considerable and their farms and dairies so large that it is very

frequent for a farmer to have 1;000 pounds stock upon his farm in

cows only。





NORFOLK。





From High Suffolk I passed the Waveney into Norfolk; near Schole

Inn。  In my passage I saw at Redgrave (the seat of the family) a

most exquisite monument of Sir John Holt; Knight; late Lord Chief

Justice of the King's Bench several years; and one of the most

eminent lawyers of his time。  One of the heirs of the family is now

building a fine seat about a mile on the south side of Ipswich;

near the road。



The epitaph or inscription on this monument is as follows:…





M。 S。

D。 Johannis Holt; Equitis Aur。

Totius Anglioe in Banco Regis

per 21 Annos continuos

Capitalis Justitiarii

Gulielmo Regi Annoequr Reginae

Consiliarii perpetui:

Libertatis ac Legum Anglicarum

Assertoris; Vindicis; Custodis;

Vigilis Acris & intrepidi;

Rolandus Frater Uncius & Hoeres

Optime de se Merito

posuit;

Die Martis Vto。 1709。  Sublatus est

ex Oculis nostris

Natus 30 Decembris; Anno 1642。





When we come into Norfolk; we see a face of diligence spread over

the whole country; the vast manufactures carried on (in chief) by

the Norwich weavers employs all the country round in spinning yarn

for them; besides many thousand packs of yarn which they receive

from other countries; even from as far as Yorkshire and

Westmoreland; of which I shall speak in its place。



This side of Norfolk is very populous; and thronged with great and

spacious market…towns; more and larger than any other part of

England so far from London; except Devonshire; and the West Riding

of Yorkshire; for example; between the frontiers of Suffolk and the

city of Norwich on this side; which is not above 22 miles in

breadth; are the following market…towns; viz。:…





Thetford; Hingham; Harleston;

Diss; West Dereham; E。 Dereham;

Harling; Attleborough; Watton;

Bucknam; Windham; Loddon; etc。





Most of these towns are very populous and large; but that which is

most remarkable is; that the whole country round them is so

interspersed with villages; and those villages so large; and so

full of people; that they are equal to market…towns in other

countries; in a word; they render this eastern part of Norfolk

exceeding full of inhabitants。



An eminent weaver of Norwich gave me a scheme of their trade on

this occasion; by which; calculating from the number of looms at

that time employed in the city of Norwich only; besides those

employed in other towns in the same county; he made it appear very

plain; that there were 120;000 people employed in the woollen and

silk and wool manufactures of that city only; not that the people

all lived in the city; though Norwich is a very large and populous

city too: but; I say; they were employed for spinning the yarn used

for such goods as were all made in that city。  This account is

curious enough; and very exact; but it is too long for the compass

of this work。



This shows the wonderful extent of the Norwich manufacture; or

stuff…weaving trade; by which so many thousands of families are

maintained。  Their trade; indeed; felt a very sensible decay; and

the cries of the poor began to be very loud; when the wearing of

painted calicoes was grown to such a height in England; as was seen

about two or three years ago; but an Act of Parliament having been

obtained; though not without great struggle; in the years 1720 and

1721; for prohibiting the use and wearing of calicoes; the stuff

trade revived incredibly; and as I passed this part of the country

in the year 1723; the manufacturers assured me that there was not;

in all the eastern and middle part of Norfolk; any hand unemployed;

if they would work; and that the very children; after four or five

years of age; could every one earn their own bread。  But I return

to speak of the villages and towns in the rest of the county; I

shall come to the city of Norwich by itself。



This throng of villages continues through all the east part of the

country; which is of the greatest extent; and where the manufacture

is chiefly carried on。  If any part of it be waste and thin of

inhabitants; it is the west part; drawing a line from about Brand;

or Brandon; south; to Walsinghan; north。  This part of the country

indeed is full of open plains; and somewhat sandy and barren; and

feeds great flocks of good sheep; but put it all together; the

county of Norfolk has the most people in the least tract of land of

any county in England; except about London; and Exon; and the West

Riding of Yorkshire; as above。



Add to this; that there is no single county in England; except as

above; that can boast of three towns so populous; so rich; and so

famous for trade and navigation; as in this county。  By these three

towns; I mean the city of Norwich; the towns of Yarmouth and Lynn。

Besides that; it has several other seaports of very good trade; as

Wisbech; Wells; Burnham; Clye; etc。



Norwich is the capital of all the county; and the centre of all the

trade and manufactures which I have just mentioned; an ancient;

large; rich; and populous city。  If a stranger was only to ride

through or view the city of Norwich for a day; he would have much

more reason to think there was a town without inhabitants; than

there is really to say so of Ipswich; but on the contrary if he was

to view the city; either on a Sabbath…day; or on any public

occasion; he would wonder where all the people could dwell; the

multitude is so great。  But the case is this: the inhabitants being

all busy at their manufactures; dwell in their garrets at their

looms; and in their combing shops (so they call them); twisting…

mills; and other work…houses; almost all the works they are

employed in being done within doors。  There are in this city

thirty…two parishes besides the cathedral; and a great many

meeting…houses of Dissenters of all denominations。  The public

edifices are chiefly the castle; ancient and decayed; and now for

many years past made use of for a gaol。  The Duke of Norfolk's

house was formerly kept well; and the gardens preserved for the

pleasure and diversion of the citizens; but since feeling too

sensibly the sinking circumstances of that once glorious family;

who were the first peers and hereditary earl…marshals of England。



The walls of this city are reckoned three miles in circumference;

taking in more ground than the City of London; but much of that

ground lying open in pasture…fields and gardens; nor does it seem

to be; like some ancient places; a decayed; declining town; and

that the walls mark out its ancient dimensions; for we do not see

room to suppose that it was ever larger or more populous than it is

now。  But the walls seem to be placed as if they expected that the

city would in time increase sufficiently to fill them up with

buildings。



The cathedral of this city is a fine fabric; and the spire steeple

very high and beautiful。  It is not ancient; the bishop's see

having been first at Thetford; from whence it was not translated

hither till the twelfth century。  Yet the church has so many

antiquities in it; that our late great scholar and physician; Sir

Thomas Brown; thought it worth his while to write a whole book to

collect the monuments and inscriptions in this church; to which I

refer the reader。



The River Yare runs through this city; and is navigable thus far

without the help of any art (that is to say; without locks or

stops); and being increased by other waters; passes afterwards

through a long tract of the richest meadows; and the largest; take

them all together; that are anywhere in England; lying for thirty

miles in length; from this city to Yarmouth; including the return

of the said meadows on the bank of the Waveney south; and on the

River Thyrn north。



Here is one thing indeed strange in itself; and more so; in that

history seems to be quite ignorant of the occasion of it。  The

River Waveney is a considerable river; and of a deep and full

channel; navigable for large barges as high as Beccles; it runs for

a course of about fifty miles; between the two counties of Suffolk

and Norfolk; as a boundary to both; and pushing on; though with a

gentle stream; towards the sea; no one would doubt; but; that when

they see the river growing broader and deeper; and going directly

towards the sea; even to the edge of the beach … that is to say;

within a mile of the main ocean … no stranger; I say; but would

expect to see its entrance into the sea at that place; and a noble

harbour for ships at the mouth of it; when on a sudden; the land

rising high by the seaside; crosses the head of the river; like a

dam; checks the whole course of it; and it returns; bending its

course west; for two miles; or thereabouts; and then turning north;

through another long course of meadows (joining to those just now

mentioned) seeks out the River Yare; that it may join its water

with hers; and find their way to the sea together



Some of our historians tell a long; fabulous story of this river

being once open; and a famous harbour for ships belonging to a town

of Lowestoft adjoining; but that the town of Yarmouth en
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