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tour through the eastern counties of england-第3部分

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At this place may be said to end what we call the Hundreds of Essex

… that is to say; the three Hundreds or divisions which include the

marshy country; viz。; Barnstable Hundred; Rochford Hundred; and

Dengy Hundred。



I have one remark more before I leave this damp part of the world;

and which I cannot omit on the women's account; namely; that I took

notice of a strange decay of the sex here; insomuch that all along

this country it was very frequent to meet with men that had had

from five or six to fourteen or fifteen wives; nay; and some more。

And I was informed that in the marshes on the other side of the

river over against Candy Island there was a farmer who was then

living with the five…and…twentieth wife; and that his son; who was

but about thirty…five years old; had already had about fourteen。

Indeed; this part of the story I only had by report; though from

good hands too; but the other is well known and easy to be inquired

into about Fobbing; Curringham; Thundersly; Benfleet; Prittlewell;

Wakering; Great Stambridge; Cricksea; Burnham; Dengy; and other

towns of the like situation。  The reason; as a merry fellow told

me; who said he had had about a dozen and a half of wives (though I

found afterwards he fibbed a little) was this: That they being bred

in the marshes themselves and seasoned to the place; did pretty

well with it; but that they always went up into the hilly country;

or; to speak their own language; into the uplands for a wife。  That

when they took the young lasses out of the wholesome and fresh air

they were healthy; fresh; and clear; and well; but when they came

out of their native air into the marshes among the fogs and damps;

there they presently changed their complexion; got an ague or two;

and seldom held it above half a year; or a year at most; 〃And

then;〃 said he; 〃we go to the uplands again and fetch another;〃 so

that marrying of wives was reckoned a kind of good farm to them。

It is true the fellow told this in a kind of drollery and mirth;

but the fact; for all that; is certainly true; and that they have

abundance of wives by that very means。  Nor is it less true that

the inhabitants in these places do not hold it out; as in other

countries; and as first you seldom meet with very ancient people

among the poor; as in other places we do; so; take it one with

another; not one…half of the inhabitants are natives of the place;

but such as from other countries or in other parts of this country

settle here for the advantage of good farms; for which I appeal to

any impartial inquiry; having myself examined into it critically in

several places。



From the marshes and low grounds being not able to travel without

many windings and indentures by reason of the creeks and waters; I

came up to the town of Malden; a noted market town situate at the

conflux or joining of two principal rivers in this county; the

Chelm or Chelmer; and the Blackwater; and where they enter into the

sea。  The channel; as I have noted; is called by the sailors Malden

Water; and is navigable up to the town; where by that means is a

great trade for carrying corn by water to London; the county of

Essex being (especially on all that side) a great corn county。



When I have said this I think I have done Malden justice; and said

all of it that there is to be said; unless I should run into the

old story of its antiquity; and tell you it was a Roman colony in

the time of Vespasian; and that it was called Camolodunum。  How the

Britons; under Queen Boadicea; in revenge for the Romans' ill…usage

of her … for indeed they used her majesty ill … they stripped her

naked and whipped her publicly through their streets for some

affront she had given them。  I say how for this she raised the

Britons round the country; overpowered; and cut in pieces the Tenth

Legion; killed above eighty thousand Romans; and destroyed the

colony; but was afterwards overthrown in a great battle; and sixty

thousand Britons slain。  I say; unless I should enter into this

story; I have nothing more to say of Malden; and; as for that

story; it is so fully related by Mr。 Camden in his history of the

Romans in Britain at the beginning of his 〃Britannia;〃 that I need

only refer the reader to it; and go on with my journey。



Being obliged to come thus far into the uplands; as above; I made

it my road to pass through Witham; a pleasant; well…situated market

town; in which; and in its neighbourhood; there are as many

gentlemen of good fortunes and families as I believe can be met

with in so narrow a compass in any of the three counties of which I

make this circuit。



In the town of Witham dwells the Lord Pasely; oldest son of the

Earl of Abercorn of Ireland (a branch of the noble family of

Hamilton; in Scotland)。  His lordship has a small; but a neat;

well…built new house; and is finishing his gardens in such a manner

as few in that part of England will exceed them。



Nearer Chelmsford; hard by Boreham; lives the Lord Viscount

Barrington; who; though not born to the title; or estate; or name

which he now possesses; had the honour to be twice made heir to the

estates of gentlemen not at all related to him; at least; one of

them; as is very much to his honour; mentioned in his patent of

creation。  His name was Shute; his father a linendraper in London;

and served sheriff of the said city in very troublesome times。  He

changed the name of Shute for that of Barrington by an Act of

Parliament obtained for that purpose; and had the dignity of a

baron of the kingdom conferred on him by the favour of King George。

His lordship is a Dissenter; and seems to love retirement。  He was

a member of Parliament for the town of Berwick…upon…Tweed。



On the other side of Witham; at Fauburn; an ancient mansion house;

built by the Romans; lives Mr。 Bullock; whose father married the

daughter of that eminent citizen; Sir Josiah Child; of Wanstead; by

whom she had three sons; the eldest enjoys the estate; which is

considerable。



It is observable; that in this part of the country there are

several very considerable estates; purchased and now enjoyed by

citizens of London; merchants; and tradesmen; as Mr。 Western; an

iron merchant; near Kelendon; Mr。 Cresnor; a wholesale grocer; who

was; a little before he died; named for sheriff at Earl's Coln; Mr。

Olemus; a merchant at Braintree; Mr。 Westcomb; near Malden; Sir

Thomas Webster at Copthall; near Waltham; and several others。



I mention this to observe how the present increase of wealth in the

City of London spreads itself into the country; and plants families

and fortunes; who in another age will equal the families of the

ancient gentry; who perhaps were brought out。  I shall take notice

of this in a general head; and when I have run through all the

counties; collect a list of the families of citizens and tradesmen

thus established in the several counties; especially round London。



The product of all this part of the country is corn; as that of the

marshy feeding grounds mentioned above is grass; where their chief

business is breeding of calves; which I need not say are the best

and fattest; and the largest veal in England; if not in the world;

and; as an instance; I ate part of a veal or calf; fed by the late

Sir Josiah Child at Wanstead; the loin of which weighed above

thirty pounds; and the flesh exceeding white and fat。



From hence I went on to Colchester。  The story of Kill…Dane; which

is told of the town of Kelvedon; three miles from Witham; namely;

that this is the place where the massacre of the Danes was begun by

the women; and that therefore it was called Kill…Dane; I say of it;

as we generally say of improbable news; it wants confirmation。  The

true name of the town is Kelvedon; and has been so for many hundred

years。  Neither does Mr。 Camden; or any other writer I meet with

worth naming; insist on this piece of empty tradition。  The town is

commonly called Keldon。



Colchester is an ancient corporation。  The town is large; very

populous; the streets fair and beautiful; and though it may not

said to be finely built; yet there are abundance of very good and

well…built houses in it。  It still mourns in the ruins of a civil

war; during which; or rather after the heat of the war was over; it

suffered a severe siege; which; the garrison making a resolute

defence; was turned into a blockade; in which the garrison and

inhabitants also suffered the utmost extremity of hunger; and were

at last obliged to surrender at discretion; when their two chief

officers; Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle; were shot to

death under the castle wall。  The inhabitants had a tradition that

no grass would grow upon the spot where the blood of those two

gallant gentlemen was spilt; and they showed the place bare of

grass for many years; but whether for this reason I will not

affirm。  The story is now dropped; and the grass; I suppose; grows

there; as in other places。



However; the battered walls; the breaches in the turrets; and the

ruined churches; still remain; except that the church of St。 Mary

(where they had the royal fort) is rebuilt; but the steeple; which

was two…thirds battered down; because the besieged had a large

culverin upon it that did much execution; remains still in that

condition。



There is another church which bears the marks of those times;

namely; on the south side of the town; in the way to the Hythe; of

which more hereafter。



The lines of contravallation; with the forts built by the

besiegers; and which surrounded the whole town; remain very visible

in many places; but the chief of them are demolished。



The River Colne; which passes through this town; compasses it on

the north and east sides; and served in those times for a complete

defence on those sides。  They have three bridges over it; one

called North Bridge; at the north gate; by which the road leads

into Suffolk; one 
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