first visit to new england-第3部分

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then　in　perfect　command　of　those　varied　forces　which　will　long；　if　not
lastingly；　keep　him　in　memory　as　first　among　our　literary　men；　and　master
in　more　kinds　than　any　other　American。　　Longfellow　was　in　the　fulness　of
his　world…wide　fame；　and　in　the　ripeness　of　the　beautiful　genius　which
was　not　to　know　decay　while　life　endured。　　Emerson　had　emerged　from　the
popular　darkness　which　had　so　long　held　him　a　hopeless　mystic；　and　was
shining　a　lambent　star　of　poesy　and　prophecy　at　the　zenith。　　Hawthorne；
the　exquisite　artist；　the　unrivalled　dreamer；　whom　we　still　always　liken
this　one　and　that　one　to；　whenever　this　one　or　that　one　promises　greatly
to　please　us；　and　still　leave　without　a　rival；　without　a　companion；　had
lately　returned　from　his　long　sojourn　abroad；　and　had　given　us　the　last
of　the　incomparable　romances　which　the　world　was　to　have　perfect　from　his
hand。　　Doctor　Holmes　had　surpassed　all　expectations　in　those　who　most
admired　his　brilliant　humor　and　charming　poetry　by　the　invention　of　a　new
attitude　if　not　a　new　sort　in　literature。　　The　turn　that　civic　affairs
had　taken　was　favorable　to　the　widest　recognition　of　Whittier's　splendid
lyrical　gift；　and　that　heart　of　fire；　doubly　snow…bound　by　Quaker
tradition　and　Puritan　environment；　was　penetrating　every　generous　breast
with　its　flamy　impulses；　and　fusing　all　wills　in　its　noble　purpose。　　Mrs。
Stowe；　who　far　outfamed　the　rest　as　the　author　of　the　most　renowned　novel
ever　written；　was　proving　it　no　accident　or　miracle　by　the　fiction　she
was　still　writing。

This　great　New　England　group　might　be　enlarged　perhaps　without　loss　of
quality　by　the　inclusion　of　Thoreau；　who　came　somewhat　before　his　time；
and　whose　drastic　criticism　of　our　expediential　and　mainly　futile
civilization　would　find　more　intelligent　acceptance　now　than　it　did　then；
when　all　resentment　of　its　defects　was　specialized　in　enmity　to　Southern
slavery。　　Doctor　Edward　Everett　Hale　belonged　in　this　group　too；　by
virtue　of　that　humor；　the　most　inventive　and　the　most　fantastic；　the
sanest；　the　sweetest；　the　truest；　which　had　begun　to　find　expression　in
the　Atlantic　Monthly；　and　there　a　wonderful　young　girl　had　written　a
series　of　vivid　sketches　and　taken　the　heart　of　youth　everywhere　with
amaze　and　joy；　so　that　I　thought　it　would　be　no　less　an　event　to　meet
Harriet　Prescott　than　to　meet　any　of　those　I　have　named。

I　expected　somehow　to　meet　them　all；　and　I　imagined　them　all　easily
accessible　in　the　office　of　the　Atlantic　Monthly；　which　had　lately
adventured　in　the　fine　air　of　high　literature　where　so　many　other
periodicals　had　gasped　and　died　before　it。　　The　best　of　these；　hitherto；
and　better　even　than　the　Atlantic　for　some　reasons；　the　lamented　Putnam's
Magazine；　had　perished　of　inanition　at　New　York；　and　the　claim　of　the
commercial　capital　to　the　literary　primacy　had　passed　with　that　brilliant
venture。　　New　York　had　nothing　distinctive　to　show　for　American
literature　but　the　decrepit　and　doting　Knickerbocker　Magazine。　　Harper's
New　Monthly；　though　Curtis　had　already　come　to　it　from　the　wreck　of
Putnam's；　and　it　had　long　ceased　to　be　eclectic　in　material；　and　had
begun　to　stand　for　native　work　in　the　allied　arts　which　it　has　since　so
magnificently　advanced；　was　not　distinctively　literary；　and　the　Weekly
had　just　begun　to　make　itself　known。　　The　Century；　Scribner's；　the
Cosmopolitan；　McClure's；　and　I　know　not　what　others；　were　still
unimagined　by　five；　and　ten；　and　twenty　years；　and　the　Galaxy　was　to
flash　and　fade　before　any　of　them　should　kindle　its　more　effectual　fires。
The　Nation；　which　was　destined　to　chastise　rather　than　nurture　our　young
literature；　had　still　six　years　of　dreamless　potentiality　before　it；　and
the　Nation　was　always　more　Bostonian　than　New…Yorkish　by　nature；　whatever
it　was　by　nativity。

Philadelphia　had　long　counted　for　nothing　in　the　literary　field。
Graham's　Magazine　at　one　time　showed　a　certain　critical　force；　but　it
seemed　to　perish　of　this　expression　of　vitality；　and　there　remained
Godey's　Lady's　Book　and　Peterson's　Magazine；　publications　really
incredible　in　their　insipidity。　　In　the　South　there　was　nothing　but　a
mistaken　social　ideal；　with　the　moral　principles　all　standing　on　their
heads　in　defence　of　slavery；　and　in　the　West　there　was　a　feeble　and
foolish　notion　that　Western　talent　was　repressed　by　Eastern　jealousy。
At　Boston　chiefly；　if　not　at　Boston　alone；　was　there　a　vigorous
intellectual　life　among　such　authors　as　I　have　named。　　Every　young　writer
was　ambitious　to　join　his　name　with　theirs　in　the　Atlantic　Monthly；　and
in　the　lists　of　Ticknor　&　Fields；　who　were　literary　publishers　in　a　sense
such　as　the　business　world　has　known　nowhere　else　before　or　since。　　Their
imprint　was　a　warrant　of　quality　to　the　reader　and　of　immortality　to　the
author；　so　that　if　I　could　have　had　a　book　issued　by　them　at　that　day　I
should　now　be　in　the　full　enjoyment　of　an　undying　fame。




V。

Such　was　the　literary　situation　as　the　passionate　pilgrim　from　the　West
approached　his　holy　land　at　Boston；　by　way　of　the　Grand　Trunk　Railway
from　Quebec　to　Portland。　　I　have　no　recollection　of　a　sleeping…car；　and　I
suppose　I　waked　and　watched　during　the　whole　of　that　long；　rough　journey；
but　I　should　hardly　have　slept　if　there　had　been　a　car　for　the　purpose。
I　was　too　eager　to　see　what　New　England　was　like；　and　too　anxious　not　to
lose　the　least　glimpse　of　it；　to　close　my　eyes　after　I　crossed　the　border
at　Island　Pond。　　I　found　that　in　the　elm…dotted　levels　of　Maine　it　was
very　like　the　Western　Reserve　in　northern　Ohio；　which　is；　indeed；　a
portion　of　New　England　transferred　with　all　its　characteristic　features；
and　flattened　out　along　the　lake　shore。　　It　was　not　till　I　began　to　run
southward　into　the　older　regions　of　the　country　that　it　lost　this　look；
and　became　gratefully　strange　to　me。　　It　never　had　the　effect　of　hoary
antiquity　which　I　had　expected　of　a　country　settled　more　than　two
centuries；　with　its　wood…built　farms　and　villages　it　looked　newer　than
the　coal…smoked　brick　of　southern　Ohio。　　I　had　prefigured　the　New　England
landscape　bare　of　forests；　relieved　here　and　there　with　the　tees　of
orchards　or　plantations；　but　I　found　apparently　as　much　woodland　as　at
home。

At　Portland　I　first　saw　the　ocean；　and　this　was　a　sort　of　disappointment。
Tides　and　salt　water　I　had　already　had　at　Quebec；　so　that　I　was　no　longer
on　the　alert　for　them；　but　the　color　and　the　vastness　of　the　sea　I　was
still　to　try　upon　my　vision。　　When　I　stood　on　the　Promenade　at　Portland
with　the　kind　young　Unitarian　minister　whom　I　had　brought　a　letter　to；
and　who　led　me　there　for　a　most　impressive　first　view　of　the　ocean；　I
could　not　make　more　of　it　than　there　was　of　Lake　Erie；　and　I　have　never
thought　the　color　of　the　sea　comparable　to　the　tender　blue　of　the　lake。
I　did　not　hint　my　disappointment　to　my　friend；　I　had　too　much　regard　for
the　feelings　of　an　Eastern　man　to　decry　his　ocean　to　his　face；　and　I　felt
besides　that　it　would　be　vulgar　and　provincial　to　make　comparisons。　　I　am
glad　now　that　I　held　my　tongue；　for　that　kind　soul　is　no　longer　in　this
world；　and　I　should　not　like　to　think　he　knew　how　far　short　of　my
expectations　the　sea　he　was　so　proud　of　had　fallen。　　I　went　up　with　him
into　a　tower　or　belvedere　there　was　at　hand；　and　when　he　pointed　to　the
eastern　horizon　and　said；　Now　there　was　nothing　but　sea　between　us　and
Africa；　I　pretended　to　expand　with　the　thought；　and　began　to　sound　myself
for　the　emotions　which　I　ought　to　have　felt　at　such　a　sight。　　But　in　my
heart　I　was　empty；　and　Heaven　knows　whether　I　saw　the　steamer　which　the
ancient　mariner　in　charge　of　that　tower　invited　me　to　look　at　through　his
telescope。　　I　never　could　see　anything　but　a　vitreous　glare　through　a
telescope；　which　has　a　vicious　habit　of　dodging　about　through　space；　and
failing　to　bring　down　anything　of　less　than　planetary　magnitude。

But　there　was　something　at　Portland　vastly　more　to　me　than　seas　or
continents；　and　that　was　the　house　where　Longfellow　was　born。　　I　believe；
now；　I　did　not　get　the　right　house；　but　only　the　house　he　went　to　live　in
later；　but　it　served；　and　I　rejoiced　in　it　with　a　rapture　that　could　not
have　been　more　genuine　if　it　had　been　the　real　birthplace　of　the　poet。　　I
got　my　friend　to　show　me

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃the　breezy　dome　of　groves；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　The　shadows　of　Deering's　woods；〃

because　they　were　in　one　of　Longfellow's　loveliest　and　tenderest　poems；
and　I　made　an　errand　to　the　docks；　for　the　sake　of　the

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃…black　wharves　and　the　slips；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　And　the　sea…tides　tossing　free；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　And　Spanish　sailors　with　bearded　lips；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　And　the　beauty　and　mystery　of　the　ships；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　And　the　magic　of　the　sea；〃

mainly　for　the　reason　that　these　were　colors　and　shapes　of　the　fond
vision　of　the　poet's　past。　　I　am　in　doubt　whether　it　was　at　this　time　or
a　later　time　that　I　went　to　revere

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃the　dead　captains　as　they　lay
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　In　their　graves　o'erlooking　the　tranquil　bay；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　where　they　in　battle　died；〃

but　I　am　quite　sure　it　was　now　that　I　wandered　under

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃the　trees　which　shadow　each　well…known　street；
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　As　they　balance　up　and　down；〃

for　when　I　was　next　in　Portland　the　great　fire　had　swept　the　city　avenues
bare　of　most　of　those　beautiful　elms；　whose　Gothic　arches　and　traceries　I
well　remember。

The　fact　is　that　in　those　days　I　was　bursting　with　the　most　romantic
expectations　of　life　in　every　way；　and　I　looked　at　the　whole　world　as
material　that　might　be　turned　into　literature；　or　that　might　be
associated　with　it　somehow。　　I　do　not　know　how　I　managed　to　keep　these
preposterous　hopes　within　me；　but　perhaps　the　trick　of　satirizing　them；
which　I　had　early　learnt；　helped　me　to　do　it。　　I　was　at　that　particular
moment　resolved　above　all　things　to　see　things　as　Heinrich　Heine　saw
them；　or　at　least　to　report　them　as　he　did；　no　matter　how　I　saw　them；
and　I　went　about　framing　phrases　to　this　end；　and　trying　to　match　the
objects　of　interest　to　them　whenever　there　was　the　least　chance　of
getting　them　together。




VI。

I　do　not　know　how　I　first　arrived　in　Boston；　or　whether　it　was　before　or
after　I　ha