an inland voyage-第5部分

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d　stillness；　and　remind　you　of　　the　glittering　citizens　below　your　boat。

The　Sambre　turned　so　industriously　to　and　fro　among　his　little　　hills；　that　it　was　past　six　before　we　drew　near　the　lock　at　　Quartes。　　There　were　some　children　on　the　tow…path；　with　whom　the　　CIGARETTE　fell　into　a　chaffing　talk　as　they　ran　along　beside　us。　　　It　was　in　vain　that　I　warned　him。　　In　vain　I　told　him；　in　English；　　that　boys　were　the　most　dangerous　creatures；　and　if　once　you　began　　with　them；　it　was　safe　to　end　in　a　shower　of　stones。　　For　my　own　　part；　whenever　anything　was　addressed　to　me；　I　smiled　gently　and　　shook　my　head　as　though　I　were　an　inoffensive　person　inadequately　　acquainted　with　French。　　For　indeed　I　have　had　such　experience　at　　home；　that　I　would　sooner　meet　many　wild　animals　than　a　troop　of　　healthy　urchins。

But　I　was　doing　injustice　to　these　peaceable　young　Hainaulters。　　　When　the　CIGARETTE　went　off　to　make　inquiries；　I　got　out　upon　the　　bank　to　smoke　a　pipe　and　superintend　the　boats；　and　became　at　once　　the　centre　of　much　amiable　curiosity。　　The　children　had　been　joined　　by　this　time　by　a　young　woman　and　a　mild　lad　who　had　lost　an　arm；　　and　this　gave　me　more　security。　　When　I　let　slip　my　first　word　or　　so　in　French；　a　little　girl　nodded　her　head　with　a　comical　grown…up　　air。　　'Ah；　you　see；'　she　said；　'he　understands　well　enough　now；　he　　was　just　making　believe。'　　And　the　little　group　laughed　together　　very　good…naturedly。

They　were　much　impressed　when　they　heard　we　came　from　England；　and　　the　little　girl　proffered　the　information　that　England　was　an　　island　'and　a　far　way　from　here　…　BIEN　LOIN　D'ICI。'

'Ay；　you　may　say　that；　a　far　way　from　here；'　said　the　lad　with　one　　arm。

I　was　as　nearly　home…sick　as　ever　I　was　in　my　life；　they　seemed　to　　make　it　such　an　incalculable　distance　to　the　place　where　I　first　　saw　the　day。　　They　admired　the　canoes　very　much。　　And　I　observed　　one　piece　of　delicacy　in　these　children；　which　is　worthy　of　record。　　　They　had　been　deafening　us　for　the　last　hundred　yards　with　　petitions　for　a　sail；　ay；　and　they　deafened　us　to　the　same　tune　　next　morning　when　we　came　to　start；　but　then；　when　the　canoes　were　　lying　empty；　there　was　no　word　of　any　such　petition。　　Delicacy？　or　　perhaps　a　bit　of　fear　for　the　water　in　so　crank　a　vessel？　　I　hate　　cynicism　a　great　deal　worse　than　I　do　the　devil；　unless　perhaps　the　　two　were　the　same　thing？　　And　yet　'tis　a　good　tonic；　the　cold　tub　　and　bath…towel　of　the　sentiments；　and　positively　necessary　to　life　　in　cases　of　advanced　sensibility。

From　the　boats　they　turned　to　my　costume。　　They　could　not　make　　enough　of　my　red　sash；　and　my　knife　filled　them　with　awe。

'They　make　them　like　that　in　England；'　said　the　boy　with　one　arm。　　　I　was　glad　he　did　not　know　how　badly　we　make　them　in　England　now…a…　days。　　'They　are　for　people　who　go　away　to　sea；'　he　added；　'and　to　　defend　one's　life　against　great　fish。'

I　felt　I　was　becoming　a　more　and　more　romantic　figure　to　the　little　　group　at　every　word。　　And　so　I　suppose　I　was。　　Even　my　pipe；　　although　it　was　an　ordinary　French　clay　pretty　well　'trousered；'　as　　they　call　it；　would　have　a　rarity　in　their　eyes；　as　a　thing　coming　　from　so　far　away。　　And　if　my　feathers　were　not　very　fine　in　　themselves；　they　were　all　from　over　seas。　　One　thing　in　my　outfit；　　however；　tickled　them　out　of　all　politeness；　and　that　was　the　　bemired　condition　of　my　canvas　shoes。　　I　suppose　they　were　sure　the　　mud　at　any　rate　was　a　home　product。　　The　little　girl　（who　was　the　　genius　of　the　party）　displayed　her　own　sabots　in　competition；　and　I　　wish　you　could　have　seen　how　gracefully　and　merrily　she　did　it。

The　young　woman's　milk…can；　a　great　amphora　of　hammered　brass；　　stood　some　way　off　upon　the　sward。　　I　was　glad　of　an　opportunity　to　　divert　public　attention　from　myself；　and　return　some　of　the　　compliments　I　had　received。　　So　I　admired　it　cordially　both　for　　form　and　colour；　telling　them；　and　very　truly；　that　it　was　as　　beautiful　as　gold。　　They　were　not　surprised。　　The　things　were　　plainly　the　boast　of　the　countryside。　　And　the　children　expatiated　　on　the　costliness　of　these　amphorae；　which　sell　sometimes　as　high　　as　thirty　francs　apiece；　told　me　how　they　were　carried　on　donkeys；　　one　on　either　side　of　the　saddle；　a　brave　caparison　in　themselves；　　and　how　they　were　to　be　seen　all　over　the　district；　and　at　the　　larger　farms　in　great　number　and　of　great　size。



PONT…SUR…SAMBRE



WE　ARE　PEDLARS


THE　CIGARETTE　returned　with　good　news。　　There　were　beds　to　be　had　　some　ten　minutes'　walk　from　where　we　were；　at　a　place　called　Pont。　　　We　stowed　the　canoes　in　a　granary；　and　asked　among　the　children　for　　a　guide。　　The　circle　at　once　widened　round　us；　and　our　offers　of　　reward　were　received　in　dispiriting　silence。　　We　were　plainly　a　　pair　of　Bluebeards　to　the　children；　they　might　speak　to　us　in　　public　places；　and　where　they　had　the　advantage　of　numbers；　but　it　　was　another　thing　to　venture　off　alone　with　two　uncouth　and　　legendary　characters；　who　had　dropped　from　the　clouds　upon　their　　hamlet　this　quiet　afternoon；　sashed　and　be…knived；　and　with　a　　flavour　of　great　voyages。　　The　owner　of　the　granary　came　to　our　　assistance；　singled　out　one　little　fellow　and　threatened　him　with　　corporalities；　or　I　suspect　we　should　have　had　to　find　the　way　for　　ourselves。　　As　it　was；　he　was　more　frightened　at　the　granary　man　　than　the　strangers；　having　perhaps　had　some　experience　of　the　　former。　　But　I　fancy　his　little　heart　must　have　been　going　at　a　　fine　rate；　for　he　kept　trotting　at　a　respectful　distance　in　front；　　and　looking　back　at　us　with　scared　eyes。　　Not　otherwise　may　the　　children　of　the　young　world　have　guided　Jove　or　one　of　his　Olympian　　compeers　on　an　adventure。

A　miry　lane　led　us　up　from　Quartes　with　its　church　and　bickering　　windmill。　　The　hinds　were　trudging　homewards　from　the　fields。　　A　　brisk　little　woman　passed　us　by。　　She　was　seated　across　a　donkey　　between　a　pair　of　glittering　milk…cans；　and；　as　she　went；　she　　kicked　jauntily　with　her　heels　upon　the　donkey's　side；　and　　scattered　shrill　remarks　among　the　wayfarers。　　It　was　notable　that　　none　of　the　tired　men　took　the　trouble　to　reply。　　Our　conductor　　soon　led　us　out　of　the　lane　and　across　country。　　The　sun　had　gone　　down；　but　the　west　in　front　of　us　was　one　lake　of　level　gold。　　The　　path　wandered　a　while　in　the　open；　and　then　passed　under　a　trellis　　like　a　bower　indefinitely　prolonged。　　On　either　hand　were　shadowy　　orchards；　cottages　lay　low　among　the　leaves；　and　sent　their　smoke　　to　heaven；　every　here　and　there；　in　an　opening；　appeared　the　great　　gold　face　of　the　west。

I　never　saw　the　CIGARETTE　in　such　an　idyllic　frame　of　mind。　　He　　waxed　positively　lyrical　in　praise　of　country　scenes。　　I　was　little　　less　exhilarated　myself；　the　mild　air　of　the　evening；　the　shadows；　　the　rich　lights　and　the　silence；　made　a　symphonious　accompaniment　　about　our　walk；　and　we　both　determined　to　avoid　towns　for　the　　future　and　sleep　in　hamlets。

At　last　the　path　went　between　two　houses；　and　turned　the　party　out　　into　a　wide　muddy　high…road；　bordered；　as　far　as　the　eye　could　　reach　on　either　hand；　by　an　unsightly　village。　　The　houses　stood　　well　back；　leaving　a　ribbon　of　waste　land　on　either　side　of　the　　road；　where　there　were　stacks　of　firewood；　carts；　barrows；　rubbish…　heaps；　and　a　little　doubtful　grass。　　Away　on　the　left；　a　gaunt　　tower　stood　in　the　middle　of　the　street。　　What　it　had　been　in　past　　ages；　I　know　not：　　probably　a　hold　in　time　of　war；　but　now…a…days　　it　bore　an　illegible　dial…plate　in　its　upper　parts；　and　near　the　　bottom　an　iron　letter…box。

The　inn　to　which　we　had　been　recommended　at　Quartes　was　full；　or　　else　the　landlady　did　not　like　our　looks。　　I　ought　to　say；　that　　with　our　long；　damp　india…rubber　bags；　we　presented　rather　a　　doubtful　type　of　civilisation：　　like　rag…and…bone　men；　the　　CIGARETTE　imagined。　　'These　gentlemen　are　pedlars？　…　CES　MESSIEURS　　SONT　DES　MARCHANDS？'　…　asked　the　landlady。　　And　then；　without　　waiting　for　an　answer；　which　I　suppose　she　thought　superfluous　in　　so　plain　a　case；　recommended　us　to　a　butcher　who　lived　hard　by　the　　tower；　and　took　in　travellers　to　lodge。

Thither　went　we。　　But　the　butcher　was　flitting；　and　all　his　beds　　were　taken　down。　　Or　else　he　didn't　like　our　look。　　As　a　parting　　shot；　we　had　'These　gentlemen　are　pedlars？'

It　began　to　grow　dark　in　earnest。　　We　could　no　longer　distinguish　　the　faces　of　the　people　who　passed　us　by　with　an　inarticulate　good…　evening。　　And　the　householders　of　Pont　seemed　very　economical　with　　their　oil；　for　we　saw　not　a　single　window　lighted　in　all　that　long　　village。　　I　believe　it　is　the　longest　village　in　the　world；　but　I　　daresay　in　our　predicament　every　pace　counted　three　times　over。　　We　　were　much　cast　down　when　we　came　to　the　last　auberge；　and　looking　　in　at　the　dark　door；　asked　timidly　if　we　could　sleep　there　for　the　　night。　　A　female　voice　assented　in　no　very　friendly　tones。　　We　　clapped　the　bags　down　and　found　our　way　to　chairs。

The　place　was　in　total　darkness；　save　a　red　glow　in　the　chinks　and　　ventilators　of　the　stove。　　But　now　the　landlady　lit　a　lamp　to　see　　her　new　guests；　I　suppose　the　darkness　was　what　saved　us　another　　expulsion；　for　I　cannot　say　she　looked　gratified　at　our　appearance。　　　We　were　in　a　large　bare　apartment；　adorned　with　two　allegorical　　prints　of　Music　and　Painting；　and　a　copy　of　the　law　against　public　　drunkenness。　　On　one　side；　there　was　a　bit　of　a　bar；　with　some　　half…a…dozen　bottles。　　Two　labourers　sat　waiting　supper；　in　　attitudes　of　extreme　weariness；　a　plain…looking　lass　bustled　about　　with　a　sleepy　child　of　two；　and　the　landlady　began　to　derange　the　　pots　upon　the　stove；　and　set　some　beefsteak　to　grill。

'These　gentlemen　are　pedlars？'　she　asked　sharply。　　And　that　was　all　　the　conversation　forthcoming。　　We　began　to　think　we　might　be　　pedlars　after　all。　　I　never　knew　a　population　with　so　narrow　a　　range　of　conjecture　as　the　innkeepers　of　Pont…sur…Sambre。　　But　　manners　and　bearing　have　not　a　wider　currency　than　bank…notes。　　You　　have　only　to　get　far　enough　out　of　your　beat；　and　all　your　　accomplished　airs　will　go　for　nothing。　　These　Hainaulters　could　see　　no　difference　between　us　and　the　average　pedlar。　　Indeed　we　had　　some　grounds　for　reflection　while　the　steak　was　getting　ready；