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the uncommercial traveller-第17部分

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to be attributed to his great sagacity; by reason of his carrying

broad loads of wood at other times; and not being clear but that I

myself belonged to that station of life; and required as much room

as they。  He brought me safely; in his own wise way; among the

passes of the Alps; and here I enjoyed a dozen climates a day;

being now (like Don Quixote on the back of the wooden horse) in the

region of wind; now in the region of fire; now in the region of

unmelting ice and snow。  Here; I passed over trembling domes of

ice; beneath which the cataract was roaring; and here was received

under arches of icicles; of unspeakable beauty; and here the sweet

air was so bracing and so light; that at halting…times I rolled in

the snow when I saw my mule do it; thinking that he must know best。

At this part of the journey we would come; at mid…day; into half an

hour's thaw:  when the rough mountain inn would be found on an

island of deep mud in a sea of snow; while the baiting strings of

mules; and the carts full of casks and bales; which had been in an

Arctic condition a mile off; would steam again。  By such ways and

means; I would come to the cluster of chalets where I had to turn

out of the track to see the waterfall; and then; uttering a howl

like a young giant; on espying a traveller … in other words;

something to eat … coming up the steep; the idiot lying on the

wood…pile who sunned himself and nursed his goitre; would rouse the

woman…guide within the hut; who would stream out hastily; throwing

her child over one of her shoulders and her goitre over the other;

as she came along。  I slept at religious houses; and bleak refuges

of many kinds; on this journey; and by the stove at night heard

stories of travellers who had perished within call; in wreaths and

drifts of snow。  One night the stove within; and the cold outside;

awakened childish associations long forgotten; and I dreamed I was

in Russia … the identical serf out of a picture…book I had; before

I could read it for myself … and that I was going to be knouted by

a noble personage in a fur cap; boots; and earrings; who; I think;

must have come out of some melodrama。



Commend me to the beautiful waters among these mountains!  Though I

was not of their mind:  they; being inveterately bent on getting

down into the level country; and I ardently desiring to linger

where I was。  What desperate leaps they took; what dark abysses

they plunged into; what rocks they wore away; what echoes they

invoked!  In one part where I went; they were pressed into the

service of carrying wood down; to be burnt next winter; as costly

fuel; in Italy。  But; their fierce savage nature was not to be

easily constrained; and they fought with every limb of the wood;

whirling it round and round; stripping its bark away; dashing it

against pointed corners; driving it out of the course; and roaring

and flying at the peasants who steered it back again from the bank

with long stout poles。  Alas! concurrent streams of time and water

carried ME down fast; and I came; on an exquisitely clear day; to

the Lausanne shore of the Lake of Geneva; where I stood looking at

the bright blue water; the flushed white mountains opposite; and

the boats at my feet with their furled Mediterranean sails; showing

like enormous magnifications of this goose…quill pen that is now in

my hand。



… The sky became overcast without any notice; a wind very like the

March east wind of England; blew across me; and a voice said; 'How

do you like it?  Will it do?'



I had merely shut myself; for half a minute; in a German travelling

chariot that stood for sale in the Carriage Department of the

London Pantechnicon。  I had a commission to buy it; for a friend

who was going abroad; and the look and manner of the chariot; as I

tried the cushions and the springs; brought all these hints of

travelling remembrance before me。



'It will do very well;' said I; rather sorrowfully; as I got out at

the other door; and shut the carriage up。







CHAPTER VIII … THE GREAT TASMANIA'S CARGO







I travel constantly; up and down a certain line of railway that has

a terminus in London。  It is the railway for a large military

depot; and for other large barracks。  To the best of my serious

belief; I have never been on that railway by daylight; without

seeing some handcuffed deserters in the train。



It is in the nature of things that such an institution as our

English army should have many bad and troublesome characters in it。

But; this is a reason for; and not against; its being made as

acceptable as possible to well…disposed men of decent behaviour。

Such men are assuredly not tempted into the ranks; by the beastly

inversion of natural laws; and the compulsion to live in worse than

swinish foulness。  Accordingly; when any such Circumlocutional

embellishments of the soldier's condition have of late been brought

to notice; we civilians; seated in outer darkness cheerfully

meditating on an Income Tax; have considered the matter as being

our business; and have shown a tendency to declare that we would

rather not have it misregulated; if such declaration may; without

violence to the Church Catechism; be hinted to those who are put in

authority over us。



Any animated description of a modern battle; any private soldier's

letter published in the newspapers; any page of the records of the

Victoria Cross; will show that in the ranks of the army; there

exists under all disadvantages as fine a sense of duty as is to be

found in any station on earth。  Who doubts that if we all did our

duty as faithfully as the soldier does his; this world would be a

better place?  There may be greater difficulties in our way than in

the soldier's。  Not disputed。  But; let us at least do our duty

towards HIM。



I had got back again to that rich and beautiful port where I had

looked after Mercantile Jack; and I was walking up a hill there; on

a wild March morning。  My conversation with my official friend

Pangloss; by whom I was accidentally accompanied; took this

direction as we took the up…hill direction; because the object of

my uncommercial journey was to see some discharged soldiers who had

recently come home from India。  There were men of HAVELOCK's among

them; there were men who had been in many of the great battles of

the great Indian campaign; among them; and I was curious to note

what our discharged soldiers looked like; when they were done with。



I was not the less interested (as I mentioned to my official friend

Pangloss) because these men had claimed to be discharged; when

their right to be discharged was not admitted。  They had behaved

with unblemished fidelity and bravery; but; a change of

circumstances had arisen; which; as they considered; put an end to

their compact and entitled them to enter on a new one。  Their

demand had been blunderingly resisted by the authorities in India:

but; it is to be presumed that the men were not far wrong; inasmuch

as the bungle had ended in their being sent home discharged; in

pursuance of orders from home。  (There was an immense waste of

money; of course。)



Under these circumstances … thought I; as I walked up the hill; on

which I accidentally encountered my official friend … under these

circumstances of the men having successfully opposed themselves to

the Pagoda Department of that great Circumlocution Office on which

the sun never sets and the light of reason never rises; the Pagoda

Department will have been particularly careful of the national

honour。  It will have shown these men; in the scrupulous good

faith; not to say the generosity; of its dealing with them; that

great national authorities can have no small retaliations and

revenges。  It will have made every provision for their health on

the passage home; and will have landed them; restored from their

campaigning fatigues by a sea…voyage; pure air; sound food; and

good medicines。  And I pleased myself with dwelling beforehand; on

the great accounts of their personal treatment which these men

would carry into their various towns and villages; and on the

increasing popularity of the service that would insensibly follow。

I almost began to hope that the hitherto…never…failing deserters on

my railroad would by…and…by become a phenomenon。



In this agreeable frame of mind I entered the workhouse of

Liverpool。 … For; the cultivation of laurels in a sandy soil; had

brought the soldiers in question to THAT abode of Glory。



Before going into their wards to visit them; I inquired how they

had made their triumphant entry there?  They had been brought

through the rain in carts it seemed; from the landing…place to the

gate; and had then been carried up…stairs on the backs of paupers。

Their groans and pains during the performance of this glorious

pageant; had been so distressing; as to bring tears into the eyes

of spectators but too well accustomed to scenes of suffering。  The

men were so dreadfully cold; that those who could get near the

fires were hard to be restrained from thrusting their feet in among

the blazing coals。  They were so horribly reduced; that they were

awful to look upon。  Racked with dysentery and blackened with

scurvy; one hundred and forty wretched soldiers had been revived

with brandy and laid in bed。



My official friend Pangloss is lineally descended from a learned

doctor of that name; who was once tutor to Candide; an ingenious

young gentleman of some celebrity。  In his personal character; he

is as humane and worthy a gentleman as any I know; in his official

capacity; he unfortunately preaches the doctrines of his renowned

ancestor; by demonstrating on all occasions that we live in the

best of all possible official worlds。



'In the name of Humanity;' said I; 'how did the men fall into this

deplorable state?  Was the ship well found in stores?'



'I am not here to asseverate that I know the fa
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