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the uncommercial traveller-第52部分

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Down by the Docks; they eat the largest oysters and scatter the

roughest oyster…shells; known to the descendants of Saint George

and the Dragon。  Down by the Docks; they consume the slimiest of

shell…fish; which seem to have been scraped off the copper bottoms

of ships。  Down by the Docks; the vegetables at green…grocers'

doors acquire a saline and a scaly look; as if they had been

crossed with fish and seaweed。  Down by the Docks; they 'board

seamen' at the eating…houses; the public…houses; the slop…shops;

the coffee…shops; the tally…shops; all kinds of shops mentionable

and unmentionable … board them; as it were; in the piratical sense;

making them bleed terribly; and giving no quarter。  Down by the

Docks; the seamen roam in mid…street and mid…day; their pockets

inside out; and their heads no better。  Down by the Docks; the

daughters of wave…ruling Britannia also rove; clad in silken

attire; with uncovered tresses streaming in the breeze; bandanna

kerchiefs floating from their shoulders; and crinoline not wanting。

Down by the Docks; you may hear the Incomparable Joe Jackson sing

the Standard of England; with a hornpipe; any night; or any day may

see at the waxwork; for a penny and no waiting; him as killed the

policeman at Acton and suffered for it。  Down by the Docks; you may

buy polonies; saveloys; and sausage preparations various; if you

are not particular what they are made of besides seasoning。  Down

by the Docks; the children of Israel creep into any gloomy cribs

and entries they can hire; and hang slops there … pewter watches;

sou'…wester hats; waterproof overalls … 'firtht rate articleth;

Thjack。'  Down by the Docks; such dealers exhibiting on a frame a

complete nautical suit without the refinement of a waxen visage in

the hat; present the imaginary wearer as drooping at the yard…arm;

with his seafaring and earthfaring troubles over。  Down by the

Docks; the placards in the shops apostrophise the customer; knowing

him familiarly beforehand; as; 'Look here; Jack!'  'Here's your

sort; my lad!'  'Try our sea…going mixed; at two and nine!'  'The

right kit for the British tar!'  'Ship ahoy!'  'Splice the main…

brace; brother!'  'Come; cheer up; my lads。  We've the best liquors

here; And you'll find something new In our wonderful Beer!'  Down

by the Docks; the pawnbroker lends money on Union…Jack pocket…

handkerchiefs; on watches with little ships pitching fore and aft

on the dial; on telescopes; nautical instruments in cases; and

such…like。  Down by the Docks; the apothecary sets up in business

on the wretchedest scale … chiefly on lint and plaster for the

strapping of wounds … and with no bright bottles; and with no

little drawers。  Down by the Docks; the shabby undertaker's shop

will bury you for next to nothing; after the Malay or Chinaman has

stabbed you for nothing at all:  so you can hardly hope to make a

cheaper end。  Down by the Docks; anybody drunk will quarrel with

anybody drunk or sober; and everybody else will have a hand in it;

and on the shortest notice you may revolve in a whirlpool of red

shirts; shaggy beards; wild heads of hair; bare tattooed arms;

Britannia's daughters; malice; mud; maundering; and madness。  Down

by the Docks; scraping fiddles go in the public…houses all day

long; and; shrill above their din and all the din; rises the

screeching of innumerable parrots brought from foreign parts; who

appear to be very much astonished by what they find on these native

shores of ours。  Possibly the parrots don't know; possibly they do;

that Down by the Docks is the road to the Pacific Ocean; with its

lovely islands; where the savage girls plait flowers; and the

savage boys carve cocoa…nut shells; and the grim blind idols muse

in their shady groves to exactly the same purpose as the priests

and chiefs。  And possibly the parrots don't know; possibly they do;

that the noble savage is a wearisome impostor wherever he is; and

has five hundred thousand volumes of indifferent rhyme; and no

reason; to answer for。



Shadwell church!  Pleasant whispers of there being a fresher air

down the river than down by the Docks; go pursuing one another;

playfully; in and out of the openings in its spire。  Gigantic in

the basin just beyond the church; looms my Emigrant Ship:  her

name; the Amazon。  Her figure…head is not disfigured as those

beauteous founders of the race of strong…minded women are fabled to

have been; for the convenience of drawing the bow; but I sympathise

with the carver:





A flattering carver who made it his care

To carve busts as they ought to be … not as they were。





My Emigrant Ship lies broadside…on to the wharf。  Two great

gangways made of spars and planks connect her with the wharf; and

up and down these gangways; perpetually crowding to and fro and in

and out; like ants; are the Emigrants who are going to sail in my

Emigrant Ship。  Some with cabbages; some with loaves of bread; some

with cheese and butter; some with milk and beer; some with boxes;

beds; and bundles; some with babies … nearly all with children …

nearly all with bran…new tin cans for their daily allowance of

water; uncomfortably suggestive of a tin flavour in the drink。  To

and fro; up and down; aboard and ashore; swarming here and there

and everywhere; my Emigrants。  And still as the Dock…Gate swings

upon its hinges; cabs appear; and carts appear; and vans appear;

bringing more of my Emigrants; with more cabbages; more loaves;

more cheese and butter; more milk and beer; more boxes; beds; and

bundles; more tin cans; and on those shipping investments

accumulated compound interest of children。



I go aboard my Emigrant Ship。  I go first to the great cabin; and

find it in the usual condition of a Cabin at that pass。  Perspiring

landsmen; with loose papers; and with pens and inkstands; pervade

it; and the general appearance of things is as if the late Mr。

Amazon's funeral had just come home from the cemetery; and the

disconsolate Mrs。 Amazon's trustees found the affairs in great

disorder; and were looking high and low for the will。  I go out on

the poop…deck; for air; and surveying the emigrants on the deck

below (indeed they are crowded all about me; up there too); find

more pens and inkstands in action; and more papers; and

interminable complication respecting accounts with individuals for

tin cans and what not。  But nobody is in an ill…temper; nobody is

the worse for drink; nobody swears an oath or uses a coarse word;

nobody appears depressed; nobody is weeping; and down upon the deck

in every corner where it is possible to find a few square feet to

kneel; crouch; or lie in; people; in every unsuitable attitude for

writing; are writing letters。



Now; I have seen emigrant ships before this day in June。  And these

people are so strikingly different from all other people in like

circumstances whom I have ever seen; that I wonder aloud; 'What

WOULD a stranger suppose these emigrants to be!'



The vigilant; bright face of the weather…browned captain of the

Amazon is at my shoulder; and he says; 'What; indeed!  The most of

these came aboard yesterday evening。  They came from various parts

of England in small parties that had never seen one another before。

Yet they had not been a couple of hours on board; when they

established their own police; made their own regulations; and set

their own watches at all the hatchways。  Before nine o'clock; the

ship was as orderly and as quiet as a man…of…war。'



I looked about me again; and saw the letter…writing going on with

the most curious composure。  Perfectly abstracted in the midst of

the crowd; while great casks were swinging aloft; and being lowered

into the hold; while hot agents were hurrying up and down;

adjusting the interminable accounts; while two hundred strangers

were searching everywhere for two hundred other strangers; and were

asking questions about them of two hundred more; while the children

played up and down all the steps; and in and out among all the

people's legs; and were beheld; to the general dismay; toppling

over all the dangerous places; the letter…writers wrote on calmly。

On the starboard side of the ship; a grizzled man dictated a long

letter to another grizzled man in an immense fur cap:  which letter

was of so profound a quality; that it became necessary for the

amanuensis at intervals to take off his fur cap in both his hands;

for the ventilation of his brain; and stare at him who dictated; as

a man of many mysteries who was worth looking at。  On the lar…board

side; a woman had covered a belaying…pin with a white cloth to make

a neat desk of it; and was sitting on a little box; writing with

the deliberation of a bookkeeper。  Down; upon her breast on the

planks of the deck at this woman's feet; with her head diving in

under a beam of the bulwarks on that side; as an eligible place of

refuge for her sheet of paper; a neat and pretty girl wrote for a

good hour (she fainted at last); only rising to the surface

occasionally for a dip of ink。  Alongside the boat; close to me on

the poop…deck; another girl; a fresh; well…grown country girl; was

writing another letter on the bare deck。  Later in the day; when

this self…same boat was filled with a choir who sang glees and

catches for a long time; one of the singers; a girl; sang her part

mechanically all the while; and wrote a letter in the bottom of the

boat while doing so。



'A stranger would be puzzled to guess the right name for these

people; Mr。 Uncommercial;' says the captain。



'Indeed he would。'



'If you hadn't known; could you ever have supposed … ?'



'How could I!  I should have said they were in their degree; the

pick and flower of England。'



'So should I;' says the captain。



'How many are they?'



'Eight hundred in round numbers。'



I went between…decks; where the families with children swarmed in

the dark; where unavoidable confusio
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