cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第1部分

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Cyprus；　as　I　Saw　it　in　1879


by　Sir　Samuel　W。　Baker







　　　　　　　　　　　　CONTENTS

　　　　INTRODUCTION

　　　　CHAPTER　I。　　　　　　ARRIVAL　AT　LARNACA
　　　　CHAPTER　II。　　　　　THE　GIPSY…VANS　ENCOUNTER　DIFFICULTIES
　　　　CHAPTER　III。　　　　ROUTE　TO　NICOSIA
　　　　CHAPTER　IV。　　　　　THE　MESSARIA
　　　　CHAPTER　V。　　　　　　START　FOR　THE　CARPAS
　　　　CHAPTER　VI。　　　　　CAPE　ST。　ANDREA
　　　　CHAPTER　VII。　　　　KYRENIA　AND　THE　NORTH　COAST
　　　　CHAPTER　VIII。　　　ROUTE　TO　BAFFO
　　　　CHAPTER　IX。　　　　　FROM　BAFFO　TO　LIMASOL
　　　　CHAPTER　X。　　　　　　THE　WINE　DISTRICT　OF　LIMASOL　
　　　　CHAPTER　XI。　　　　　FROM　LIMASOL　TO　THE　MOUNTAINS　
　　　　CHAPTER　XII。　　　　THE　MONASTERY　OF　TROODITISSA　
　　　　CHAPTER　XIII。　　　WOODS　AND　FORESTS　
　　　　CHAPTER　XIV。　　　　REMARKS　ON　IRRIGATION
　　　　CHAPTER　XV。　　　　　LIFE　AT　THE　MONASTERY　OF　TROODITISSA　
　　　　CHAPTER　XVI。　　　　SOMETHING　ABOUT　TAXATION　
　　　　CHAPTER　XVII。　　　THE　DISTRICT　OF　LIMASOL　AND　LANDOWNERS　
　　　　CHAPTER　XVIII。　　ON　POLICE；　WAGES；　FOOD；　CLIMATE；　ETC。　
　　　　CHAPTER　XIX。　　　　POLITICAL　REFLECTIONS　
　　　　CHAPTER　XX。　　　　　CONCLUSION　

　　　　APPENDIX　






INTRODUCTION。


I　do　not　intend　to　write　a　history　of　Cyprus；　as　authorities　already
exist　that　are　well　known；　but　were　generally　neglected　until　the
British　occupation　rescued　them　from　secluded　bookshelves。　Even　had　I
presumed　to　write　as　a　historian；　the　task　would　have　been　impossible；
as　I　am　at　this　moment　excluded　from　the　world　in　the　precincts　of　the
monastery　of　Trooditissa　among　the　heights　of　ancient　Olympus　or　modern
Troodos；　where　books　of　reference　are　unknown；　and　the　necessary　data
would　be　wanting。　I　shall　recount　my　personal　experience　of　this　island
as　an　independent　traveller；　unprejudiced　by　political　considerations；
and　unfettered　by　the　responsible　position　of　an　official。　Having
examined　Cyprus　in　every　district；　and　passed　not　only　a　few　days；　but
winter；　spring；　and　summer　in　testing　the　climatic　and　geographical
peculiarities　of　the　country；　I　shall　describe　〃Cyprus　as　I　saw　it　in
1879；〃　expressing　the　opinions　which　I　formed　upon　the　spot　with　the
results　of　my　experience。

Although　I　have　read　many　works　upon　this　island；　I　have　no　books　with
me　except　that　interesting　record　of　the　discovery　of　antiquities　by
General　di　Cesnola；　and　the　invaluable　compilation　for　the　Intelligence
Branch；　Quartermaster…General's　Department；　Horse　Guards；　by　Captain
Savile；　18th　Royal　Irish　Regiment。　It　is　impossible　to　praise　the　latter
work　too　highly；　as　every　authority；　whether　ancient　or　modern；　has　been
studied；　and　the　information　thus　carefully　collected　has　been　classed
under　special　headings　and　offered　to　the　reader　in　a　concise　and
graphic　form　which　renders　it　perfect　as　a　book　of　reference。　I　must
express　my　deep　appreciation　of　the　assistance　that　I　have　derived　from
Captain　Savile's　work；　as　it　has　directed　my　attention　to　many　subjects
that　might　have　escaped　my　observation；　and　it　has　furnished　me　with
dates；　consular　reports；　and　other　statistical　information　that　would
otherwise　have　been　difficult　to　obtain。　The　study　of　M。　Gaudrey's　able
report　to　the　French　government　upon　the　agricultural　resources　and　the
geological　features　of　Cyprus；　before　I　commenced　my　journey；　guided　me
materially　in　the　interesting　observations　of　the　various　formations　and
terrestrial　phenomena。　The　experiences　of　the　late　British　Consul；　Mr。
Hamilton　Lang；　described　in　his　attractive　volume；　together　with　those
of　Von　Loher；　Doctors　Unger　and　Kotschy；　have　afforded　me　an　advantage
in　following　upon　footsteps　through　a　well…examined　field　of　discovery。

Before　I　enter　upon　a　description　of　my　personal　examination　of　the
island；　it　will　be　advisable　to　trace　a　brief　outline　of　the
geographical　position　of　Cyprus；　which　caused　its　early　importance　in
the　history　of　the　human　race；　and　which　has　been　accepted　by　the
British　government　as　sufficiently　unchanged　to　warrant　a　military
occupation　in　1878；　as　a　strategical　point　that　dominates　the　eastern
portion　of　the　Mediterranean；　and　supplies　the　missing　link　in　the　chain
of　fortified　ports　from　England　to　the　shores　of　Egypt。

In　the　world's　infancy　oceans　were　unknown　seas　upon　which　the　vessels
of　the　ancients　rarely　ventured　beyond　the　sight　of　land；　without　the
compass　the　interminable　blue　water　was　a　terrible　wilderness　full　of
awe　and　wonder。　The　Phoenicians；　who　first　circumnavigated　Africa　by
passing　through　the　then　existing　canal　between　Suez　and　the　Nile；
coasted　the　whole　voyage；　as　did　in　later　years　the　famous　Portuguese；
Vasco　di　Gama；　and　stations　were　formed　along　the　shores　at　convenient
intervals。　Hanno　the　Carthaginian　coasted　to　an　uncertain　and　contested
point　upon　the　western　shores　of　Africa；　but　no　ocean　commercial　port
was　known　to　have　existed　in　the　early　days　of　maritime　adventure。　The
Mediterranean　offered　peculiar　advantages　of　physical　geography；　its
great　length　and　comparatively　narrow　width　embraced　a　vast　area；　at　the
same　time　that　it　afforded　special　facilities　for　commerce　in　the
numerous　ports　and　islands　that　would　form　a　refuge　in　stress　of
weather。

The　countries　which　surrounded　this　great　inland　sea　were　rich；　the
climate　throughout　its　course　combined　the　temperate　with　almost
tropical；　according　to　the　changes　of　seasons；　accordingly；　the
productions　of　the　earth　varying　upon　the　northern　and　southern　coasts；
were　all　that　could　be　required　for　the　necessities　of　the　human　race。
In　this　happily　situated　position　commerce　was　first　cradled；　and　by　the
interchange　of　ideas　and　natural　productions；　artificial　wants　were
mutually　created　among　the　various　countries　around　the　great　sea
margin；　the　supply　of　these　new　requirements　and　exchange　of　commodities
established　trade。　With　the　development　of　commerce；　wealth　and
prosperity　increased；　nations　became　important　through　the　possession　of
superior　harbours　and　geographical　positions；　and　the　entire　maritime
strength　and　commercial　activity　of　the　ancient　world　was　represented　by
the　Mediterranean。　The　Phoenicians　of　Tyre　and　Sidon　were　the　English　of
to…day；　the　Egyptians　and　the　Greeks　were　followed　as　the　world　grew
older　by　the　Venetians　and　Genoese；　and　throughout　the　world's　history
no　point　possessed　a　more　constant　and　unchangeable　attraction　from　its
geographical　position　and　natural　advantages　than　the　island　of　Cyprus；
which　in　turn　was　occupied　by　Phoenicians；　Greeks；　Egyptians；　Persians；
Romans；　Byzantine　rulers；　Saracens；　Byzantine　rulers　again；　English；
Lusignans；　Venetians；　Turks；　and　once　more　English　in　1878。

The　advantages　which　had　thus　possessed　a　magnetic　influence　in
attracting　towards　this　island　the　leading　nations　of　the　world　were　in
ancient　days　undeniable。　When　vessels　directed　their　course　only　by
well…known　landmarks；　or　by　the　position　of　certain　stars；　it　was　highly
necessary　for　a　maritime　power　to　occupy　a　continuous　chain　of　stations；
where；　in　case　of　danger　from　a　superior　force；　a　place　of　refuge　would
be　near。　Cyprus　from　its　peculiar　geographical　position　commanded　the
eastern　portion　of　the　Mediterranean。　The　harbour　of　Famagousta　was　only
a　few　hours'　sail；　with　a　favourable　wind；　to　the　coast　of　Asia　Minor。
The　bays　of　Larnaca　and　Limasol　were　roadsteads　with　a　safe　anchorage；
and　Paphos　（Baffo）　was　a　convenient　harbour　upon　the　south…western
portion　of　the　island；　capable　of　protecting　a　considerable　number　of
the　small　vessels　of　the　period。　Thus　Cyprus　possessed　two　harbours　upon
the　south　coast　in　addition　to　good　roadsteads；　while　upon　the　north；
Cerinea　（Kyrenia）　and　Soli；　although　never　large；　were　serviceable　ports
of　refuge；　exactly　facing　the　coast　of　Caramania；　plainly　visible。　The
lofty　mountains　of　the　Carpas　range　which　overhang　these　harbours
command　the　sea　view　at　an　elevation　of　between　three　and　four　thousand
feet；　from　which　the　approach　of　an　enemy　could　be　quickly　signalled；
while　the　unmistakable　peaks　of　the　rugged　sky…line　formed　landmarks　by
which　vessels　could　steer　direct　to　the　desired　ports。　The　same
advantage　of　descrying　an　enemy　at　a　distance　from　the　shore　exists　in
many　parts　of　Cyprus；　owing　to　the　position　of　the　heights；　and　the
rocky　nature　of　the　coast　（with　the　exception　of　a　few　points　such　as
Limasol；　Morphu　Bay；　&c。）；　rendered　the　landing　of　a　large　force
extremely　difficult。　As　a　strategical　point；　there　was　no　more
formidable　position　than　Cyprus；　it　formed　a　common　centre　within
immediate　reach　of　Alexandria　and　all　the　coasts　of　Syria　and　Asia
Minor。　It　was　not　only　a　military　place　d'armes；　such　as　Malta　and
Gibraltar　now　are；　dependent　upon　maritime　superiority　for　the　necessary
provisions；　but　it　was　a　country　of　large　area；　comprising　about　3500
square　miles；　with　a　soil　of　unbounded　fertility　in　a　high　state　of
cultivation；　a　population　sufficiently　numerous　for　all　requirements　of
the　island；　and　forests　of　timber　that　was　in　great　request　for　the
architect　and　ship…builder。　In　addition　to　these　natural　sources　of
wealth；　the　mineral　productions　were　celebrated　from　the　earliest
history；　and　the　copper　of　Cyprus　was　used　by　the　Phoenicians　in　the
manufacture　of　their　celebrated　bronze。

The　Chittim　wood　of　Scripture；　imported　to　Syria　from　Cyprus　（the
ancient　Chittim）；　was　probably　a　species　of　cypress　at　that　time
composing　the　forests　which　ornamented　a　considerable　portion　of　the
surface。　There　are　two　varieties　of　cypress　in　the　island：　that　which
would　have　been　celebrated　grows　upon　the　high　mountains；　and　attains　a
girth　of　from　seven　to　nine　feet；　the　wood　being　highly　aromatic；
emitting　a　perfume　resembling　a　mixture　of　sandal…wood　and　cedar；　the
other　cypress　is　a　dwarf　variety　that　seldom　exceeds　twenty　feet　in
height；　with　a　maximum　circumference　of　two　feet；　this　is　a　totally
different　wood；　and　is　intensely　hard；　while　the　former　is　easily
worked；　but　durable。　The　derivation　of　the　name　Cyprus　has　been　sought
for　from　many　sources；　and　the　opinions　of　the　authorities　differ。
English　people　may　reflect　that　they　alone　spell　and　pronounce　the　word
as　〃Cyprus。〃　The　name　of　the　cypress…tree；　which　at　one　time　clothed　the
mountains　of　this　formerly　verdant　island；　is　pronounced　by　the
inhabitan