cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第13部分

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destroyed　the　town　and　rendered　it　untenable。

Traces　are　still　visible　of　the　Turkish　approaches　when　the　town　was
successfully　carried　by　storm　on　the　9th　of　September；　1570；　after　a
siege　of　only　forty…five　days。　The　short　duration　of　the　attack　compared
to　the　length　of　time　required　in　the　siege　of　Famagousta；　which　at
length　succumbed　to　famine；　and　not　to　direct　assaults；　is　a　proof　of
the　faulty　strategical　position　of　the　fortress　of　Lefkosia。

Most　Turkish　towns　are　supplied　with　water　by　aqueducts　from　a
considerable　distance；　which　would　naturally　be　cut　by　an　enemy　as　the
first　operation。　The　water　is　brought　to　Lefkosia　from　the　hills　at　some
miles'　distance；　and　is　of　excellent　quality；　but　the　wells　of　the　town
must　be　contaminated　by　sewage；　as　there　is　no　means　of　effective
drainage　upon　the　dead　level　of　the　town；　unless　the　original　ditch　is
turned　into　a　pestilential　cesspool。　The　filth　of　centuries　must　have
been　imbibed　by　the　soil；　and　during　the　process　of　infiltration　must　in
successive　rainy　seasons　have　found　its　way　to　the　wells。　In　case　of
invasion；　Lefkosia　could　never　have　resisted　a　prolonged　siege；　as　in
the　absence　of　the　aqueduct　a　garrison　would　quickly　have　succumbed　to
disease　when　dependent　for　a　water…supply　upon　the　wells　alone。　When　the
Turks　captured　the　city　by　assault；　the　population　far　exceeded　that　of
the　present　time　（16；000）；　and　the　greater　portion　were　massacred　during
several　days　of　sack　and　pillage。　Some　thousands　of　girls　and　boys　were
transported　to　Constantinople。　Richard　I。　of　England　occupied　Lefkosia
without　resistance；　after　his　victory　over　Isaac　Comnenus。

Although　experienced　in　the　illusion　of　Turkish　towns；　I　was　more　than
disappointed　when　I　visited　the　interior　of　Lefkosia。　The　new　Chief
Commissioner；　Colonel　Biddulph；　R。A。；　C。B。；　had　already　improved　certain
streets；　and　the　eye　was　immediately　attracted　to　points　which　bore　the
unmistakable　stamp　of　a　British　occupation；　but　nothing　can　be　effected
in　the　arrangement　of　such　a　town　without　an　unlimited　purse　and　a
despotic　power。　It　is　almost　as　hopeless　as　London　in　the　incongruity　of
architecture；　and　the　individual　indulgence　of　independent　taste；　which
absolutely　dismays　a　stranger。　The　beautiful　Gothic　cathedral　of　the
Venetians　has　been　converted　into　a　mosque　by　the　conquerors；　and　two
exceedingly　lofty　and　thin　minarets　have　added　an　absurd　embellishment；
resembling　two　gigantic　candles　capped　by　extinguishers；　as　though　the
altar…tapers　had　been　taken　for　the　models。　The　neighbouring　church　of
St。　Nicholas　has　been　converted　into　a　granary。　In　all　Turkish　towns　the
bazaars　are　the　most　interesting　portion；　as　they　illustrate　the
commercial　and　agricultural　industries　of　the　country。　Those　of　Lefkosia
formed　a　labyrinth　of　the　usual　narrow　streets；　and　resembled　each　other
so　closely　that　it　was　difficult　to　find　the　way。　The　preparation　of
leather　from　the　first　process　of　tanning　is　exhibited　on　an　extensive
scale；　which　does　not　add　to　the　natural　sweetness　of　the　air。　Native
manufactures　for　which　the　town　is　celebrated；　that　are　more　agreeable；
may　be　purchased　at　a　moderate　price　in　the　shape　of　silk　stuffs；　and　a
variety　of　mule…harness；　pack…saddles；　and　the　capacious　double　bags　of
hair　and　wool　that；　slung　across　the　animal；　are　almost　indispensable　to
the　traveller。　There　were　a　few　shops　devoted　to　European　articles　which
were　hardly　adapted　to　the　country；　and　were　expensive　in　a　ridiculous
degree。　The　narrow　streets　were　muddy　from　the　recent　rain；　and　the
temperature　was　at　55　degrees；　but　the　inhabitants　were　sitting　at　the
various　cafes　in　the　open　air　smoking　and　drinking　their　steaming　coffee
as　though　in　summer。　From　natural　politeness　they　invariably　rose　as　we
passed　by；　and　at　one　place　I　was　immediately　furnished　with　a　string
that　I　might　measure　a　large　vine…stem　which　during　summer　must　afford　a
dense　shade。　I　found　the　main　stem　of　this　unusual　specimen　was
twenty…two　inches　in　circumference。

The　only　agreeable　walk　in　Lefkosia　is　the　circuit　of　the　ramparts；　as
the　high　elevation　admits　of　fresh　air　and　an　extensive　view。　From　this
we　looked　down　upon　numerous　gardens　well　irrigated　by　the　surplus　water
of　the　aqueduct；　and　the　remarkably　healthy　orange　and　lemon　trees　were
crowded　with　their　loads　of　ripe　fruit。　There　are　many　good　and　roomy
houses　in　the　town；　each　furnished　with　a　considerable　garden；　but　as
they　are　surrounded　with　high　walls；　it　is　difficult　to　form　an　opinion
of　their　actual　dimensions。　The　house　occupied　by　the　Chief　Commissioner
is　large　and　well　constructed；　the　staircase　and　landing　airy　and
capacious；　with　an　entrance…hall　open　at　the　extreme　end　and　well
arranged　for　the　burning　climate　during　summer。　All　houses　are　paved
with　slabs　of　gypsum；　which　abound　in　many　parts　of　the　island；　and　are
sold　at　a　remarkably　low　price；　as　the　blocks　laminate；　and　are　divided
into　sheets　of　the　required　thickness　with　a　minimum　of　labour。

The　Turkish　Pacha　（Rifat）　still　remained　at　Lefkosia；　as　he　was
responsible　for　the　transfer　of　various　movable　property　to
Constantinople。　The　interesting　Venetian　cannon　of　bronze　that　were
utterly　valueless　as　modern　weapons　had　been　conveyed　away　both　from
Lefkosia　and　Famagousta。　One　of　these　was　a　double　octagon；　or
sixteen…sided；　and　would　have　been　a　valuable　specimen　in　the　collection
at　the　Tower　of　London。　Many　of　the　curious　old　Venetian　cannon　had
recently　been　burst　into　fragments　with　dynamite；　to　save　the　trouble　of
moving　the　heavy　guns　entire。

There　can　be　little　doubt　that　the　prime　object　in　selecting　a　central
position　for　the　capital　of　Cyprus　was　a　regard　for　safety　from　any
sudden　attack；　but　upon　any　other　grounds　I　cannot　conceive　a　greater
absurdity。　The　capital　should　be　Limasol；　which　will　become　the
Liverpool　of　Cyprus。　Lefkosia　is　completely　out　of　the　commercial　route；
it　is　valueless　as　a　military　position；　and　it　offers　no　climatic
advantage；　but；　on　the　contrary；　it　is　frightfully　hot　in　the　summer
months；　and　is　secluded　from　the　more　active　portions　of　the　island。　It
IS；　simply　because　it　WAS；　but　it　should　remain　as　a　vestige　of　the
past；　and　no　longer　represent　the　capital。　*

（The　census　of　Nicosia；　taken　on　31st　January；　1879；　represents　the
population　as　follows：

　　　　No。　of　houses：　　2；463

　　　　Population　by　sex：

　　　　Males　above　15　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　3；773
　　　　Males　under　15　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　1；900
　　　　Females　above　14　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　3；718
　　　　Females　under　14　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　1；806
　　　　Total。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　11；197

　　　　Population　by　religion：

　　　　English　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　　　28
　　　　Greek　Church。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　5；251
　　　　Catholics　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　　121
　　　　Mohammedans　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　5；628
　　　　Armenians　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　　166
　　　　Jews。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　　　　3
　　　　Total　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　。　　11；197　　）


There　is　no　position　throughout　the　plain　of　Messaria　adapted　for　a
permanent　government　establishment　as　head…quarters。　The　depressing
effect　of　that　horrible　landscape；　embracing　the　extensive　area　from
Trichomo　and　Famagousta　to　Larnaca；　Lefkosia；　and　Morphu；　is　most
demoralising；　and　few　Europeans　would　be　able　to　resist　the　deleterious
climate　of　summer；　and　the　general　heart…sinking　that　results　in　a
nervous　despondency　when　the　dreary　and　treeless　plain　is　ever　present
to　the　view。　There　is　no　reason　why　officials　should　be　condemned　to　the
purgatory　of　such　a　station　when　Cyprus　possesses　superior　positions
where　the　great　business　of　the　future　will　be　conducted。　The　new　road
already　completed　from　Larnaca　to　Lefkosia　must　be　carried　on　to　Morphu；
and　thus　connect　the　north　and　south　extremities　of　the　plain；　Kyrenia；
sixteen　miles　distant；　must　be　connected　with　Lefkosia；　branches　must
then　be　extended　to　Kythrea　and　to　Famagousta；　and　subsequently；　from
the　latter　town　a　direct　road　must　be　continued　parallel　with　the　south
coast　to　Larnaca。　Such　roads　may　be　constructed　for　about　350　pounds　per
mile　at　the　low　rate　of　labour　in　Cyprus；　considering　the　presence　of
stone　throughout　the　district；　and　their　completion　will　open　the　entire
plain　of　Messaria　to　wheeled　communication　with　four　ports；　to　north　and
south。



CHAPTER　IV。

THE　MESSARIA。

Having　passed　a　week　with　our　kind　hosts；　Sir　Garnet　and　Lady　Wolseley；
at　Government　House；　which　formed　a　most　agreeable　contrast　to　the
friendless　life　that　we　had　been　leading；　the　vans　once　more　started　en
route　for　Kythrea；　Famagousta；　and　the　Carpas　district。　I　had　hired　a
good；　sure…footed　pony　for　my　wife　and　a　powerful　mule　for　myself；　and；
having　given　the　vans　a　start　of　several　hours；　we　followed　in　the
afternoon。

The　treeless　expanse　of　the　Messaria　produces　nothing　but　cereals　and
cotton；　teams　of　oxen　were　at　work　in　all　directions　ploughing；　and
otherwise　preparing　the　thistle…covered　surface；　and　the　atmosphere　was
so　delusively　clear　that　Kythrea；　twelve　miles　distant；　appeared　close
to　us。　Upon　these　boundless　flats　an　object　may　be　seen　as　distinctly　as
though　upon　the　water；　and　we　soon　descried　in　the　far　distance　a　dark
spot；　which　the　binocular　glass；　if　at　sea；　would　have　pronounced　to　be
the　stern　of　a　vessel　that　had　lost　her　masts；　keeping　the　same　course
as　ourselves；　this　was　the　gipsy…van；　which　should　have　already　arrived
at　Kythrea；　where　I　had　expected　to　have　found　the　camp　arranged；　dinner
cooked；　and　everything　ready　for　our　reception。　Something　had　happened；
as　the　other　van　was　not　in　sight。

It　was　impossible　to　dignify　the　route　by　the　name　of　a　〃road；〃　as　it
presented　an　uneven　surface　and　occasionally　branched　into　several
independent　tracks；　which　re…united　after　an　eccentric　course　of　a　few
hundred　yards；　these　were　caused　by　droves　of　mules　which　in　wet　weather
had　endeavoured　to　select　a　better　line　than　the　deeply…trodden　mud　in
the　central　road。　Fortunately　the　surface　was　now　hard；　and　we　cantered
on；　fully　expecting　some　disaster　to　at　least　one　of　our　vehicles。　Upon
our　arrival　we　found　a　crowd　of　people　yelling　and　shouting　their
utmost；　while　they　were　engaged　in　company　w