cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第14部分

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our　arrival　we　found　a　crowd　of　people　yelling　and　shouting　their
utmost；　while　they　were　engaged　in　company　with　four　oxen　harnessed　in
dragging　and　pushing　the　blue　van　up　a　new　road　which　they　had　scarped
out　of　the　precipitous　bank　of　a　river　about　forty　feet　deep；　this
accounted　for　only　one　van　being　in　sight；　as　the　other　was　in　the　dry
bed　of　the　river。　These　good　people　had　been　working　for　several　hours
in　making　a　road　where　none　existed；　and　assured　me　that　the　large
bridge　over　the　Pedias　was　unsafe　for　so　great　a　weight；　and　therefore
it　was　advisable　to　cross　at　the　present　spot。　The　banks　consisted　of
the　alluvium　of　ages　free　from　stones；　therefore　it　was　easy　to　cut　an
incline；　but　as　many　tons　of　earth　had　been　removed；　the　operation　had
required　much　labour；　and　many　hands　had　collected　from　the　adjacent
villages　upon　seeing　the　dilemma。

The　blue　van　was　in　the　middle　of　the　crowd；　the　oxen　answered　to　the
inspiriting　shouts；　and　more　especially　to　the　ceaseless　pricks　of　the
driving　sticks；　and　presently　it　was　dragged　safely　to　the　level　of　the
opposite　bank。　A　few　alterations　in　the　new　road　were　necessary　for　the
larger　gipsy…van；　and　taking　the　drag…shoe　off　the　blue　van；　we　were
thus　enabled　to　secure　both　the　hind…wheels　for　the　steep　descent。　By
careful　management；　after　one　or　two　narrow　escapes　from　capsising；　we
succeeded　in　landing　the　Noah's　Ark　safely　by　its　fellow；　amidst　the
cheers　of　the　good…natured　crowd。

The　delay　had　been　great；　and　the　evening　was　drawing　near：　we　were
about　seven　miles　from　the　upper　portion　of　Kythrea；　where　we　had
proposed　to　camp；　and　the　route　was　partly　across　country；　to　avoid
layers　of　natural　rock　which　in　successive　ridges　made　it　impossible　for
the　vans　to　keep　the　track。　Several　deep　watercourses　intervened；　which
required　the　spade　and　pickaxe；　and　it　was　quite　dark　when　we　were
obliged　to　halt　about　a　mile　from　Kythrea。

On　the　following　morning　Mr。　Kitchener；　Lieutenant　of　the　Royal
Engineers；　called　at　our　camp；　and　was　kind　enough　to　pilot　us　to　the
celebrated　springs　about　three　miles　above　the　village。　This　able　and
energetic　officer　was　engaged；　together　with　Mr。　Hippersly　of　the　same
corps；　in　making　the　trigonometrical　survey　of　the　island；　and　they　were
quartered　in　a　comfortable　house　on　the　outskirts　of　the　town。　With　this
excellent　guide；　who　could　explain　every　inch　of　the　surrounding
country；　we　started　upon　a　most　interesting　ride。　The　entire
neighbourhood　was　green　with　abundant　crops　of　cereals；　some　of　which　at
this　early　season　were　eighteen　inches　high。　The　effect　of　irrigation
could　be　traced　for　several　miles　into　the　plain　and　along　the　base　of
the　mountain　range；　until　by　degrees　the　green　became　more　faint；　and
gradually　but　surely　merged　into　the　dead　brown　which　denoted
barrenness；　where　the　water…power　was　expended　by　absorption。

It　was　impossible　to　form　any　idea　of　the　extent　of　Kythrea　from　the
outside　view。　A　succession　of　large　villages　with　fields　highly
cultivated　covered　the　surface　at　the　base　of　the　mountains；　but　the
true　Kythrea　was　partially　concealed　by　the　curious　ravine　through　which
the　water　of　the　springs　is　conducted　by　aqueducts　until　it　reaches　the
lower　ground。　For　a　distance　of　three　miles　this　ravine　is　occupied　by
houses　and　gardens；　all　of　which　are　supplied　by　the　stream；　which　turns
thirty…two　water…mills　in　its　course。　The　water…wheels　in　Cyprus　are
horizontal　turbines；　and　I　have　only　met　with　one　over…shot　wheel　in　the
island；　this　is　on　the　estate　of　M。　Mattei　at　Kuklia。

The　range　of　mountains　exactly　above　the　village　exhibits　a　peculiar
example　of　the　effect　of　water…wash　for　about　two　hundred　feet　from　the
base。　From　the　heights　at　Government　House；　twelve　miles　distant；　I　had
observed　through　the　telescope　a　curious　succession　of　conical　heaps
resembling　volcanic　mounds　of　hardened　mud；　these　rose　one　above　the
other　along　the　base　of　the　hills　like　miniature　mountain…ranges。　Even
when　near　Kythrea　I　could　not　understand　the　formation；　until　we　found
ourselves　riding　through　the　steep　ravine　which　holds　the　watercourse
and　ascending　by　a　narrow　path　among　the　countless　hills　that　I　have
described。　Both　sides　of　the　gorge；　and　also　the　deep　bottom；　are
occupied　by　houses　with　fruitful　gardens；　rich　in　mulberry；　orange；
lemon；　apricots；　olives；　forming　groves　of　trees　that　in　summer　must　be
delightful。　Sometimes　after　clambering　up　steep　and　stony　paths　which
had　originally　been　paved　we　entered　into　villages；　the　roofs　of　the
houses　BELOW　us　upon　our　left；　and　the　doors　of　others　upon　our　right；
so　close　to　the　narrow　path　as　scarcely　to　admit　the　passage　of　a　loaded
mule。　The　water　rushed　along　the　bottom　in　a　rapid　stream；　plunging　from
the　adit　below　one　turbine　to　a　temporary　freedom　in　a　natural　channel；
from　which　it　was　quickly　captured　and　led　into　an　aqueduct　of　masonry
to　another　mill　at　a　lower　level。　All　the　inhabitants　had　turned　out　to
see　an　English　lady；　and　the　usual　welcome　was　exhibited　by　sprinkling
us　with　rose　and　orange…flower　water　as　we　passed；　the　omnipresent　dogs
yelled　and　barked　with　their　usual　threatening　demonstrations　at　the
heels　of　our　animals；　and　some　from　the　low　roofs　of　the　houses　were
unpleasantly　close　to　our　heads。　We　were　now　among　the　conical　mounds；
along　the　steep　sides　of　which　a　path　of　about　twelve　inches　width
appeared　to　invite　destruction；　as　the　loose　crumbling　material　rolled
down　the　deep　incline　beneath　the　hoofs　of　the　sure…footed　horses　and
mules。　These　creatures　had　a　disagreeable　habit　of　choosing　the　extreme
edge　of　the　narrow　ledge；　instead　of　hugging　the　safer　side；　and
although　no　great　precipice　existed；　the　fall　of　thirty　feet　into　the
rocky　stream　below　would　have　been　quite　as　effectual　as　a　greater　depth
in　breaking　necks　and　limbs。　We　again　entered　a　village；　where　a　large
plane…tree　formed　the　centre　of　a　small　open　space；　faced　on　either　side
by　a　cafe；　the　situation　being　attractive　during　summer　from　the　dense
shade　afforded　by　the　spreading　branches。　There　were　many　people　sitting
in　the　open　shed；　who　as　usual　rose　and　made　their　salutations　as　we
passed。　The　path　became　worse　as　we　proceeded；　and　we　at　length　emerged
from　the　long　string　of　contracted　villages　and　skirted　the　precipitous
sides　of　the　ravine；　which　formed　one　of　the　innumerable　gorges　between
the　conical　mounds　of　marls　and　alluvium　that　had　been　washed　from　a
higher　level　and　worn　into　heaps　by　the　action　of　rain　upon　the　unstable
surface。

About　a　mile　beyond　all　villages　we　skirted　the　stream　along　a　steep
bank；　from　which　point　we　looked　down　upon　the　roofs　of　houses　more　than
a　hundred　feet　below；　and　we　at　length　halted　and　dismounted　at　a　rocky
termination　of　the　gorge；　from　whence　issued　suddenly　the　celebrated
spring　of　Kythrea。

The　mountains　rose　abruptly　upon　either　side；　and　a　dry　ravine　above　the
rocks　upon　which　we　stood　exhibited　the　natural　channel　by　which　in
heavy　rains　the　surface…water　would　be　conducted　to　the　lower
stream…bed。　A　rough　arch　of　masonry　and　a　tunnel　in　the　rock　for　about
forty　feet　formed　the　embouchure；　from　which　the　water　issued　into　a
carefully　constructed　stone　aqueduct；　which　led　directly　to　the　first
mill　of　the　Kythrea　series；　about　a　hundred　and　twenty　yards　distant。
The　temperature　was　considerably　warmer　than　the　air；　but　I　had　no
thermometer　to　mark　the　difference。

The　aqueduct　would　have　carried　at　least　one…third　more　than　the　present
volume；　which　was　about　twenty…six　inches　deep；　and　three　feet　in　width。
The　water　was　beautifully　clear　and　the　current　rapid；　but　I　had　no
means　of　measuring　the　velocity。

The　stone…work　of　the　aqueduct；　always　moist　from　the　percolation；　must
form　a　charming　exhibition　of　maidenhair　ferns　during　summer…time；　as
the　crevices　were　all　occupied　by　plants；　whose　leaves；　even　at　this
season　（February）；　were　several　inches　in　length。

We　strolled　up　the　dry　ravine　above　the　spring；　and　ascended　the　hill　to
an　extensive　plateau；　upon　which　grew　two　or　three　caroub…trees；　here
was　a　sudden　change；　the　soil　was　red；　and　we　entered　the　compact　grey
limestone　（jurassic）　which　forms　the　Carpas　range。　On　the　extreme　verge
of　the　plateau　of　red　soil　we　had　an　admirable　example　of　the　formation
of　the　conical　mounds　of　earth；　two　or　three　of　which　already　existed；
while　others　were　in　process　of　development　from　the　melting…away　of　the
soil　during　heavy　rains。　As　the　surface　dissolved　under　the　action　of
rainfall；　it　flouted　down　the　steep　inclinations；　until　a　base　was
formed；　at　the　expense　of　the　upper　area；　by　degrees　gullies　were
created　in　the　rear；　and　these　would　rapidly　become　deeper　under　the
action　of　running　water；　until　they　reached　the　lower　level　of　the　base。
A　circle　thus　formed；　an　apex　would　be　the　natural　result　of　the
denudation　and　decay　of　the　upper　surface　which　would　produce　a　cone。　A
sudden　shower　compelled　us　to　take　refuge　beneath　a　caroub…tree　whose
dense　foliage　saved　us　from　a　thorough　soaking。　The　ground　having　become
slippery；　we　returned　upon　our　narrow　and　soapy　route　with　some　caution；
but　the　careful　animals　who　were　well　accustomed　to　these　dangerous
paths　carried　us　safely　to　our　camp。

It　is　extraordinary　that　the　water…power　of　Cyprus　has　of　late　years
been　so　neglected　by　the　authorities；　as　the　island　must　from　ancient
times　have　mainly　depended　upon　its　springs　in　the　absence　of　dependable
seasons。　Kythrea　is　an　example　of　the　importance　that　was　attached　to　a
stream　of　running　water；　as　the　town　was　established　by　the　Athenians；
and　in　former　ages　an　aqueduct　of　masonry　extended　for　twenty…five　miles
to　Salamis；　in　the　neighbourhood　of　which　ruins　of　the　old　work　are
still　existing。　If　the　seasons　of　Cyprus　have　undergone　a　change　since
the　forests　have　been　destroyed；　I　can　see　no　reason　for　the　innumerable
vestiges　of　ancient　water…works　throughout　the　country。　Wherever　an
important　spring　existed；　there　was　a　settlement　of　corresponding　extent
and　value；　which　suggests　that　the　rainfall　was　even　then　as　uncertain
as　at　the　present　day。　Every　spring　became　a　centre　of　attraction。　The
ruin