cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第15部分

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as　at　the　present　day。　Every　spring　became　a　centre　of　attraction。　The
ruins　of　the　ancient　Kythrea　have　been　partially　excavated　by　the
indefatigable　General　di　Cesnola；　but　with　unimportant　results；　as　the
ground　is　under　artificial　irrigation；　and　is　in　the　highest
cultivation；　therefore　it　cannot　be　disturbed。

The　chief　industry　of　modern　times　which　adds　to　the　importance　of
Kythrea；　is　the　production　of　silk；　from　the　great　abundance　of
mulberry…trees　which　supply　the　necessary　food　for　the　silkworms；　but　it
has　suffered　to　a　considerable　degree；　in　common　with　most　silk…growing
districts　in　Cyprus；　by　the　want　of　foresight　of　the　producers；　these
people　have　within　the　last　few　years　sold　the　seed　in　such　extravagant
quantities　to　the　traders　of　Beyrout　as　to　leave　the　island　with　a　short
supply。　The　result　of　this　sacrifice　for　the　sake　of　ready　money　is　a
serious　reduction　in　the　general　produce；　and　in　many　portions　of　the
island　the　mulberry…trees　are　flourishing　without　a　silkworm　to　feed
upon　them。　The　thirty…two　flour…mills　of　Kythrea　are　worked　by　a　fall　of
400　feet　between　the　head…water　of　the　spring　to　the　base　of　the　lowest
mill　at　the　foot　of　the　mountains。　It　appeared　to　me　that　much　water　is
wasted　by　an　absence　of　scientific　control。　A　series　of　reservoirs　would
store　the　excess　during　the　hours　when　the　mills　are　idle　（similar　to
the　mill…ponds　in　England）；　but　as　there　is　no　municipal　law　upon　this
important　subject；　the　all…important　stream　is　much　neglected。　There　is
a　general　demand　for　grinding…power　throughout　Cyprus；　the　corn　is
brought　from　great　distances　to　the　mills　of　Kythrea　at　a　considerable
expense　of　transport；　I　have　met　droves　of　mules　laden　with　wheat　and
barley　on　their　way　from　Larnaca；　to　which　distant　spot　they　would　again
return　when　their　loads　should　have　been　reduced　to　flour。　In　the　face
of　this　difficulty　a　general　want　of　energy　and　of　the　necessary　capital
is　exhibited　by　the　total　neglect　of　wind…power；　in　a　country　where　a
steady　breeze　is　the　rule；　with　few　exceptions。　Throughout　the　great
plain　of　Messaria　windmills　would　be　invaluable；　both　for　grinding
purposes　and　for　raising　water；　nothing　would　be　more　simple　than　the
combination　of　the　wind…vane　with　the　cattle…pump；　but　this　great　and
almost　omnipresent　power　is　absolutely　ignored。

On　our　return　to　camp　in　the　evening；　I　resolved　to　have　a　quiet　day
with　my　dogs　on　the　following　morning；　when　I　could　stroll　at　my　leisure
over　the　mountains；　and　enjoy　myself　thoroughly　according　to　my　own
tastes；　sometimes　obtaining　a　shot　at　game；　and　observing　every　object
in　nature。

It　was　15th　February；　and　with　a　native　guide　and　interpreter　who　spoke
Arabic；　which　was　my　medium　of　dialogue；　I　started　to　cross　the
mountain…range　upon　the　east　of　the　well…known　five…knuckled…top　named
〃Pentadactylon。〃　At　the　expense　of　repetition　I　cannot　help　extracting
from　my　diary　the　exact　words　of　description　rough　from　the　first
impulse：　〃The　base　of　this　range　is　an　extraordinary　example　of　the
action　of　rainfall　in　melting　and　washing　down　into　conical　mounds
several　hundred　feet　high；　what　was　originally　a　high　level　of
continuous　but　alternating　strata　of　marls　and　alluvium　that　had
descended　from　the　higher　mountains。　These　vast　masses　are　in　a　chaotic
confusion　of　separate　heaps；　which　at　a　distance　resemble　volcanic
cones。　We　rode　up　precipitous　paths　edging　upon　deep　chasms　between
these　conical　hills；　and　emerged　upon　metamorphous　rocks　and　shale
mingled　in　curious　irregularity。　The　strata　of　shale　were　in　some
instances　nearly　vertical；　proving　the　disturbance　that　had　been
occasioned　by　a　subsequent　upheaval。　About　200　feet　above　this　formation
we　entered　upon　the　dark　grey　jurassic　limestone；　and　the　soil　became　a
rich　red　like　that　of　South　Devon。　The　rock　scenery　was　very　imposing　as
we　increased　our　altitude　and　arrived　upon　plateaux　of　considerable
extent。　There　can　be　no　doubt　that　these　natural　terrace…like　surfaces
and　various　hollows　accumulate　the　rainfall　of　a　great　area；　and　that
some　vast　subterranean　caverns　in　the　limestone　form　natural　reservoirs；
which　supply　the　celebrated　springs　of　Kythrea　throughout　the　year。〃

I　believe　these　few　words　contain　the　real　secret　of　the　springs；　which
have　been；　and　still　are；　considered　to　have　a　mysterious　origin。　Some
people　indulge　in　the　theory　that　the　water　is　forced　by　hydraulic
pressure　at　the　superior　altitude　of　Caramania　in　Asia　Minor；　and
passing　by　a　subterranean　conduit　far　beneath　the　bottom　of　the
intervening　channel；　it　ascends　at　the　peculiar　rock…mouth　of　Kythrea。
This　is　simple　nonsense；　and　can　only　be　accepted　by　those　who　adore　the
unreal；　instead　of　the　guide；　〃common…sense。〃　The　actual　volume　of　the
outflow　at　Kythrea　has　never　been　calculated；　although　the　problem　is
most　simple；　but　a　cursory　examination　is　sufficient　to　explain　the
origin　of　the　supply　which　a　certain　superficial　mountain　area　collects
and　stores　during　the　rainy　seasons：　to　yield　gradually　through　some
small　aperture　or　leak　in　a　grand　subterranean　reservoir。

In　all　countries　where　water　is　scarce；　unfailing　springs　are　objects　of
veneration；　and　are　clothed　not　only　with　undying　verdure；　but　with　a
continuous　growth　of　legends：　from　the　day　when　Moses　smote　the　rock　in
the　wilderness；　and　the　stream　gushed　forth　to　the　thirsty　Israelites；
to　the　present　hour；　water；　which　is　man's　first　necessity；　will　in
drought…smitten　countries　be　hailed　with　more　than　usual　reverence。　The
devout　Mussulman　sinks　a　well　and　erects　a　fountain　for　the　public　good；
and　his　friends　bury　his　body　in　the　neighbourhood　of　his　last　act。

　　　　〃Rest；　weary　pilgrim；　rest　and　pray
　　　　　For　the　kind　soul　of　Sybil　Grey；　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　Who　built　this　Cross　and　Well。〃

Christian　and　Mahommedan；　and　all　creeds　and　races；　men　and　animals；
yield　unanimously　to　the　great　want；　which　in　a　thirsty　land　alone　will
bring　the　lion　and　the　lamb　to　drink　in　the　same　stream。　I　have　myself
seen　in　moonlight；　animals　of　various　and　conflicting　natures　revelling
in　the　rest　of　nature's　armistice；　drinking　in　crowds　at　the　solitary
pool；　the　only　source　of　water　in　the　desert。

The　Cypriotes　in　their　natural　love　of　the　marvellous　insist　upon　the
mystery　attached　to　the　Kythrea　springs；　but　they　attach　no　importance
to　the　extensive　subterranean　water…stores　of　the　Messaria　plain；　simply
because　they　do　not　see　it　issue　from　the　ground：　still　the　fact　is
there；　the　water　in　vast　quantities　always　exists；　and　were　it　tapped　at
a　higher　level；　it　would　flow　（as　it　actually　does　in　certain　places）；
and　exhibit　the　same　principle　upon　a　much　larger　scale　than　the
romantic　and　picturesque　mountain　springs　of　Kythrea。

As　we　increased　our　altitude　the　scenery　improved　in　interest：　we　were
no　longer　in　barren　mounds　of　water…washed　debris；　but　the　rich　soil
among　the　dark　grey　rocks　gave　birth　to　numerous　shrubs；　including　the
evergreen　mastic；　arbutus；　and　the　dwarf　cypress。　Although　the　route　was
only　marked　by　the　continual　tracks　of　the　lime…burner's　mules；　our
sturdy　animals　mounted　the　steep　rocky　ascents　with　comparative　ease；
and　skirted　the　deep　water…worn　ravines　without　missing　a　footstep。
Heaps　of　rough　crumbling　rocks　resembling　cairns　attracted　my　attention
on　all　sides；　these　were　the　rude　lime…kilns；　and　at　an　elevation　of
about　a　thousand　feet　above　Kythrea　we　came　upon　the　families　of
lime…burners　who　for　several　generations　have　resided　in　these　heights；
either　in　caves；　or　rude　huts；　according　to　the　conditions　of　the
locality。　Women　and　girls　were　hard　at　work　with　strong　grubbing…axes；
digging　out　the　roots　of　brushwood　from　among　the　rocks　and　making　them
into　faggots；　as　fuel　for　burning　the　grey　limestone。　The　work　was　most
laborious；　and　I　was　struck　by　the　great　thickness　of　the　roots　of
comparatively　small　shrubs。　Upon　regarding　the　surface；　no　bushes
appeared　sufficiently　substantial　for　the　use　of　fuel；　but　in　fact　a
they　had　for　centuries　been　cut　and　hacked　to　a　degree　that　reduced　them
superficially　to　mere　saplings；　while　the　ancient　roots　had　increased　in
size。　The　great　piles　of　limestone　were　only　partially　reduced　to　lime
by　the　rough　method　and　the　scant　fuel　employed；　but　I　admired　the
industry　of　these　poor　people；　who　were　working　like　the　Israelites　for
Pharaoh；　〃making　bricks　without　straw。〃　Some　of　the　girls　were　pretty；
but　in　figure　they　were　mere　rag…dolls　in　locomotion。

The　lime　was　conveyed　by　donkeys　to　the　lower　country；　and　we　presently
arrived　at　a　snow…white　heap　lying　in　the　centre　of　the　path；it　was
explained；　that；　during　the　heavy　shower　of　yesterday；　a　donkey　was
carrying　his　usual　burthen　of　quick…lime；　when　he　was　overtaken　by　the
rain；　which　slaked　the　load；　and　it　was　necessary　to　immediately　abandon
it；　to　save　the　animal　from　burning。

After　an　hour　and　a　half's　scramble　we　turned　to　the　right　beneath　a
perpendicular　cliff　of　exquisite　colouring　on　our　left；　combining　the
bright　red　which　denoted　the　presence　of　iron；　with　the　dark　purple　and
the　silvery　grey　of　the　Jura　limestone。　On　our　right　was　a　deep　and
precipitous　ravine；　sparsely　covered　with　evergreen　shrubs。　In　this
spot；　metamorphic　rocks　lay　in　rough　and　huge　blocks　of　various　shapes
and　colours；　and　while　examining　these　I　was　struck　by　the　presence　of
the　rare　and　peculiar　green　marble　known　as　verde　antica。　In　the
immediate　neighbourhood　I　discovered　great　masses　of　the　same　stone；　but
minus　the　green　base；　exhibiting　at　the　same　time　the　characteristics　of
irregular　mosaic　in　the　angular　fragments　of　white；　black；　and　various
coloured　pieces　which　appeared　to　be　artificially　inlaid。　These　marbles；
especially　the　true　verde　antica；　would　be　exceedingly　valuable　if　cut
into　slabs　and　exported；　and　there　would　be　little　difficulty　in
constructing　a　feasible　route　for　camels；　which　would　convey　with　ease
large　slabs　secured　in　frames　slung　upon　either　side。

A　few　yards　above　this　spot　we　arrived　at　a　solitary　cypress…tree；　which
in　density　of　foliage　resembled　a　yew…tree　in　an　English　churchyard。
Close　to　this　rare　object　was　an　aperture　in　the　rocks　upon