cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第16部分

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Close　to　this　rare　object　was　an　aperture　in　the　rocks　upon　the　right
hand；　a　few　roughly…hewn　steps　enabled　us　to　descend　into　a　narrow　cave；
where　water　dripped　from　the　roof；　and　formed　a　feeble　stream；　which　was
led　through　crevices　to　a　cistern　some　yards　below。　This　cistern　was
within　a　few　feet　of　the　cypress…tree；　and　accounted　for　its　superior
growth；　as　the　roots　had　been　duly　nourished。　About　a　hundred　feet　above
this　spot　were　the　ruins　of　an　ancient　Greek　church；　that　had　no　doubt
been　associated　with　the　holy　dripping　fountain；　and　the　solitary　tree
had　been　spared　from　the　ruthless　axes　of　the　lime…burners　through　some
superstition　connected　with　the　spot。　On　arrival　at　the　crumbling　ruins
of　the　church；　we　dismounted　from　our　animals；　and　put　them　in　the　rude
stable　of　the　lime…burners　who　had　located　themselves　among　the　walls　of
the　once　religious　buildings；　which　they　had　converted　into　huts。
Animals　could　go　no　farther；　we　therefore　continued　the　ascent　on　foot；
to　the　delight　of　my　dogs；　who　seemed　to　think　it　looked　more　like
business。

There　was　a　large　growth　of　the　usual　shrubs　arbutus；　mastic；　and
dwarf…cypress；　and　the　surface　of　the　ground　was　so　completely　covered
with　masses　of　rock　that　walking　was　most　difficult。　Notwithstanding　the
apparent　barrenness　of　the　locality；　we　arrived　at　a　tolerably　even
surface　of　rich　brown　soil　in　a　hollow　near　the　shoulder　of　the
mountain；　this　had　recently　been　cleared　for　cultivation　by　the
lime…burners　to　the　extent　of　about　two　acres；　and　I　remarked　that　both
pine…trees　and　cypresses　as　thick　as　a　man's　thigh　had　recently　been
felled　and　burnt　in　spite　of　the　government　stringent　regulations。　In
these　out…of…the…way　localities　the　natives　can　laugh　at　laws　and
special　enactments。

Upon　arrival　at　the　crest　of　the　mountain；　which　formed　a　shoulder　for　a
peak　of　silvery　rocks；　about　100　feet　above　me；　my　aneroid　showed　1830
feet　above　Kythrea。　From　this　point　the　view　was　superb；　and　extended
north　and　south　from　sea　to　sea。　There　was　an　extraordinary　contrast
upon　these　two　divisions　formed　by　the　wall…like　Carpas　range　upon　which
we　stood：　to　the　south　all　was　brown　and　desolate　excepting　the　few
miles　of　green　belonging　to　Kythrea　beneath　our　feet。　The　town　of
Lefkosia　stood　out　in　bold　relief；　the　cathedral　and　even　the　fortress
walls　affording　distinct　outlines　in　the　clear　atmosphere；　the
salt…lakes　of　Larnaca　showed　plainly　in　the　distance；　backed　by　the　blue
sea；　and　the　mountain　of　Santa　Croce　with　the　monastery　upon　its　summit
was　a　well…known　landmark。　This　side　of　the　mountain　range　was　not
inviting；　and　if　it　had　been　exhibited　before　the　occupation　there　can
be　little　doubt　of　an　unfavourable　impression。　We　turned
〃right…about…face〃　to　the　north。　This　was　indeed　a　wonderful　change　of
aspect！　We　looked　down　from　the　picturesque　and　precipitous　wall　of
mountains　which　stretched　far　away　to　the　east　and　west；　the　sides　were
covered　with　evergreens；　through　which　the　bold　crags　protruded　in
rugged　points；　the　dark　indentures　upon　the　steep　slopes　marked　deep
ravines　in　which　streams　of　water　now　rippled；　while　all　on　the　south
were　stony　and　exhausted。　The　strip　of　land　between　the　sea　and　the
northern　base　of　the　Carpas　range　was　hardly　three　miles　wide；　this　was
covered　with　well…rounded　caroub…trees；　whose　dark　green　foliage　gave　a
rich　appearance　to　the　shore；　broken　by　countless　rocky　bays　and　coves；
filled　with　the　cobalt　waters　of　the　Mediterranean。　This　was　a　lovely
scene；　I　could　not　believe　that　I　was　in　Cyprusthat
whitey…brown…paper…coloured；　desert；　smitten；　God…forsaken　isle！　Upon
the　left；　about　eight　miles　distant；　lay　the　town　and　important　port　of
Kyrenia；　with　an　apparently　very　little　harbour；　the　houses　surrounded
by　gardens；　and　ornamented　by　date…palms　backed　by　a　perfect　forest　of
caroub…trees　which　extended　for　some　miles。　On　the　extreme　summit　of　the
crags　upon　our　left；　overlooking　Kyrenia　and　forming　an　unmistakable
landmark　for　all　sailors；　was　the　castle　of　Buffavento；　cutting　the　blue
sky…line　3240　feet　above　the　sea。　Exactly　opposite；　at　about　sixty　miles
distance；　were　the　snow…capped　mountains　of　Caramania；　which　in　the
transparent　atmosphere　seemed　to　be　within　a　day's　long　march。　Far；　far
away　along　the　north…eastern　shore；　and　also　towards　the　west；　all　was
lovely：　I　could　only　regret　that　all　vessels　and　strangers　must　arrive
in　the　unfortunate　ports　of　the　Messaria；　instead　of　gaining　such
favourable　first　impressions　as　would　be　induced　by　the　lovely　picture
of　Cyprus　from　the　north。

While　I　had　been　admiring　the　view；　my　dogs　had　been　hunting　the　dense
bushes　to　very　little　purpose；　and　although　we　scrambled　for　more　than
two　hours　over　the　mountain；　we　only　moved　ten　or　twelve　red…legged
partridges；　which　rose　upwards　of　a　hundred　yards　in　front　of　the　gun；
it　was　quite　impossible　to　obtain　a　shot。　With　an　empty　bag；　but　with　a
new　impression　of　the　country　since　my　view　of　the　landscape　in　the
north；　I　turned　homewards；　and　reached　camp　late　in　the　afternoon；　my
spaniels　having　no　doubt　a　low　opinion　of　Cyprus　sport；　and　of　the
unfair　advantages　taken　by　the　ever…running　red…legged　partridges。

On　16th　February　a　painful　conviction　was　established　that　Cyprus　was
unfitted　for　wheeled　carriages　and　springs。　Although　the　plain　appeared
flat　and　without　natural　obstacles；　the　ground　had　been　completely
traversed　by　deep　trenches　for　the　purpose　of　checking　and　conducting
surface　water　to　the　fields　in　the　event　of　a　heavy　shower。　Our　course
should　have　been　directly　across　the　plain　to　intersect　the　road　from
Lefkosia　to　Famagousta；　but　a　glance　at　the　intervening　country　showed
the　impossibility　of　moving　the　vans　through　the　miles　of　green　crops
which　were　nourished　by　innumerable　watercourses；　each　of　which　must　be
levelled　before　we　could　advance。　It　was　therefore　necessary　to　retrace
our　steps　to　within　a　mile　and　a　half　of　Lefkosia；　to　the　point　where
the　main　route　branched　to　Famagousta。　This　was　a　great　waste　of　time；
but　there　was　no　other　way　of　avoiding　the　difficulty。　Accordingly　we
started；　and　after　a　few　miles　we　cut　across　country　to　the　high　road；
while　the　vans　slowly　crawled　along　the　uneven　way　until　they　reached
the　turning…point。　We　halted　at　a　very　desolate　spot；　where　sheep　were
housed　in　large　numbers。　Several　spacious　pens　were　surrounded　with
thorns；　reminding　me　of　the　cattle　zareebas　of　Africa；　and　a　small
flat…topped　building；　built　of　stone　and　mud；　formed　the　usual
accommodation　for　man　and　beast。　A　well　of　clear　but　brackish　water
supplied　this　rude　establishment；　which　was　surrounded　by　a　boundless
extent　of　undulating　ground；　more　or　less　cultivated　with　cereals；
which；　although　only　a　few　inches　above　the　surface；　looked　weak　and
perishing。

The　vans　did　not　arrive　until　late；　in　the　meanwhile　we　had　sat　outside
the　building　in　the　cold　air；　fearing　to　venture　beneath　the　roof；　owing
to　the　swarms　of　fleas　which　are　sure　to　be　〃at　home〃　in　all　the
miserable　dwellings　of　this　island。　At　length　the　gipsy…van；　which　had
been　in　sight　for　a　full　hour；　drew　up　on　the　flat　surface　in　front　of
the　shepherd's　hut；　and　real　comfort　was　at　once　at　hand。　Although　the
space　within　was　limited；　the　furniture　was　so　carefully　arranged　that
we　had　plenty　of　room　to　move　about。　The　fall…slab　table　was　usually
down；　and　was　only　required　for　writing；　the　chest　of　drawers　was
American　walnut：　a　good　solid　and　well…seasoned　wood；　which　did　not
provoke　the　temper　like　English　furniture　by　the　drawers　sticking　when
in　the　act　of　opening；　and　leaving　you　in　a　hopeless　position　with　a
detached　handle　in　either　hand。　This　good　American　chest　was　only　three
feet　two　inches　high；　therefore　it　formed　a　convenient　toilette…table
beneath　a　window；　which；　curtained　with　muslin　and　crimson　cloth；　had　an
exceedingly　snug　appearance；　and　a　cushioned　seat　upon　either　side　upon
the　lid　of　a　locker　combined　comfort　with　convenience。　We　had　a　tiny
little　movable　camp…table　that　could　be　adjusted　in　two　minutes；　and
would　dine　two　persons；　provided　that　no　carving　was　performed；　and　that
the　dishes　were　handed　round。　The　bed　was　athwart…ship　at　the　far　end
beneath　the　stern…window；　but　at　such　a　height　from　the　floor　that
several　broad　shelves　beneath　contained　gun…cases；　ammunition；　clothes；
boots；　tins　of　preserved　provisions；　and　in　fact　everything　that；
although　necessary；　was　to　be　kept　out　of　sight。　The　only　mistake　in　the
arrangements　was　a　very　large　and　gorgeous　open…brass…work　Egyptian
lantern；　with　glass　of　various　colours　and　outlandish　patterns　in
Arabesque。　In　the　evening　we　formed　an　irregular　light…house；　as　two
ordinary　carriage…lamps　were　fixed　above　and　on　either　side　the　entrance
door；　while　the　gorgeous　many…coloured　lantern　swung　from　the　roof
inside；　and　flashed　red；　green；　and　yellow　signals　in　wild　confusion。　I
knew　this　piece　of　finery　would　not　last　long；　as　it　would　insist　upon
running　against　everybody's　head；　its　large　size　bringing　it　into
constant　collision；　but　it　looked　well；　and　ornamented　the　van。　As　it
burnt　several　candles　the　lantern　became　hot；　which　somewhat　warmed　the
cabin；　and　was　a　welcome　increase　of　temperature；　for　although　the　floor
was　protected　by　oil…cloth；　upon　which　were　double　layers　of　Scinde
rugs；　the　extreme　thinness　of　the　walls　made　it　unpleasantly　cold　with
the　thermometer　outside　at　40　degrees。　The　servants　were　saved　an
immense　amount　of　trouble　by　the　presence　of　the　gipsy…van；　which　at　the
time　they　hardly　appreciated；　they　had　no　tent…pitching　upon　the　halt；
neither　unpacking　of　boxes；　nor　arranging　of　beds；　nor　any　of　the　usual
work　connected　with　a　daily　camp。　It　is　impossible　for　the　inexperienced
to　appreciate　the　comfort　of　such　a　vehicle　where　the　roads　are
practicable；　especially　in　bad　weather；　when　you　are　perfectly　certain
that　your　home　is　weather…proof　and　your　bed　dry。　Those　who　have
experienced　the　misery　of　a　halt　in　pouring　rain；　when　everybody　and
everything　has　been　sodden　to　the　bone；　when　the　ground　is　slush　that
will　not　hold　a　tent…peg；　the　night　dark；　the　fuel　will　not　burn；　the
matches　exp