cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第18部分

快捷操作: 按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页 按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页 按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部! 如果本书没有阅读完，想下次继续接着阅读，可使用上方 "收藏到我的浏览器" 功能 和 "加入书签" 功能！


camp　was　being　arranged　I　took　my　gun　and　strolled　with　the　dogs　into
the　narrow　valley　below　the　mill。　The　waterwheel　was　at　work；　and　the
people　were　engaged　in　cleaning　cotton；　as　the　machinery　was　adapted　for
both　purposes　of　grinding　corn　or　of　ginning　cotton　when　required。　There
were　plenty　of　snipe　in　the　marshes　below　the　cotton…fields；　for　which
rushes；　low　bushes　of　tamarisk　and　other　shrubs；　afforded　excellent
cover。　I　quickly　bagged　two　couple　and　my　first　Francolin　partridge；　and
was　just　in　time；　before　dark；　to　assist　the　dinner。

At　sunrise　on　the　following　morning　the　view　was　interesting；　as　the　sea
glittered　brightly　to　the　south；　while　the　bold　rocks　and　wall…like
sides　of　the　Carpas　mountains　stood　out　in　sharply…defined　edges　and
varying　colours　on　the　north。　To　the　east　we　looked　over　the　broadest
portion　of　a　dead　flat　created　by　the　deposit　from　inundations　of　the
eccentric　river　Pedias；　which；　although　dry　at　the　present　time；
periodically　floods　the　country　and　converts　the　valley　into　an
extensive　lake。　It　was　about　twenty　miles　across　this　broad　flat　to　the
important　town　of　Trichomo；　and　the　ruins　of　Salamis　were　discernible
with　the　telescope　about　midway；　close　to　the　seashore。

There　was　an　extent　of　several　miles　of　marsh　around　the　heights　of
Kuklia；　in　some　portions　of　which　cotton　was　cultivated　in　considerable
quantities；　but　I　was　surprised　at　the　inferiority　of　the　quality；　and
at　the　apparent　weakness　of　the　plants　where　the　water…supply　was
plentiful。　On　closer　examination　I　observed　great　carelessness　in　the
absence　of　drainage；　the　plants　were　allowed　to　perish　in　stagnant
water；　which　soured　the　land。　Upon　a　longer　acquaintance　with　M。
Mattei's　farm；　I　found　the　same　fault　generally。　Many　portions　of
valuable　land　were　chilled　and　rendered　fruitless　by　too　much　water；
which　remained　in　the　ground　for　want　of　the　most　simple　drains。　I　shot
plenty　of　snipe　in　the　fields　of　barley；　although　they　were　not　supposed
to　be　under　irrigation。　M。　Mattei　is　well　known　as　the　largest　landed
proprietor　in　Cyprus；　and　the　representative　of　agricultural　progress；
but　his　bailiff　at　Kuklia　could　hardly　have　expected　a　prize　at　an
exhibition；　although　every　facility　exists　for　creating　a　perfect
model…farm。　The　springs　which　supply　the　water…power　were　discovered　in
three　different　positions　about　three　miles　distant。　The　usual　chains　of
wells　（already　described）　were　sunk；　and　at　a　convenient　spot　they
converged　into　a　single　line；　until　a　lower　level　introduced　the　channel
to　the　surface。　The　water　was　then　received　into　a　stone　aqueduct；　and
led　with　great　judgment　in　a　half　circle　beneath　the　higher　ground　which
was　occupied　by　the　village；　at　a　level　which　not　only　enabled　it　to
command　the　extensive　flats　beneath；　but　eventually　passed　beyond　the
village；　and　turned　an　overshot　wheel　of　more　than　twenty　feet　diameter。
This　great　work　was　at　the　sole　expense　of　the　proprietor。　After　a
considerable　outlay　and　perfect　success　in　the　engineering；　it　is　to　be
regretted　that　greater　care　is　not　bestowed　upon　the　land；　although　the
gardens　contain　a　mass　of　fruit…trees；　large　groves　of　figs；　and　relieve
the　eye　by　their　cheerful　aspect；　only　enough　has　been　attained　to
exhibit　the　great　power　that　exists　for　producing　a　still　greater
abundance　under　proper　administration。

Having　examined　the　neighbourhood　thoroughly；　I　changed　the　position　of
our　camp　and　halted　a　mile　and　a　half　up　the　aqueduct　on　the　higher　side
of　the　village；　at　a　point　where　the　water　first　issued　from　its
subterranean　channel　into　the　conduit　of　masonry　and　cement。　We　thus
secured　a　supply　in　its　original　purity；　before　it　should　be
contaminated　by　any　washing　of　clothes　in　passing　through　the　village　in
an　open　channel；　which　from　its　convenience　offered　an　irresistible
invitation。　Such　a　tempting　stream；　running　through　a　canal　upon　a　broad
wall　of　masonry　open　to　all　comers　would；　in　any　European　country；　have
been　the　natural　resort　of　boys；　who　would　have　revelled　in　the　freedom
of　nakedness　and　the　delight　of　bathing　in　forbidden　waters；　but　in
Cyprus　I　have　never　once　seen　a　person　washing　himself　in　public。　This
is　not　from　any　sense　of　indecent　exposure；　but　from　their　absolute
dislike　to　the　operation。　I　had　subsequently　in　my　service　a　remarkably
fine　man　who　was　always　carefully　dressed；　and　in　fact　was　quite　a　dandy
in　exterior；　but　during　the　hot　weather　when　he　on　one　occasion　saw　my
Abyssinian　Amarn　swimming　in　the　sea；　he　declared　that；　〃rather　than
bathe；　he　would　prefer　to　cut　his　throat。〃

I　had　arranged　the　camp　close　to　a　hawthorn…tree；　which　was　already
green　in　its　first　spring　leaves；　and　had　formed　blossom…buds　that　would
open　in　a　few　days。　There　were　a　considerable　number　of　the　same　species
scattered　in　the　vicinity；　but　they　had　been　defaced　by　the　mutilations
usual　throughout　Cyprus。　If　a　man　requires　a　stick　or　a　piece　of　wood
for　any　purpose；　he　hacks　unsparingly　at　the　first　tree；　whether　it
belongs　to　him　or　to　another　proprietor。　The　ground　sloped　gradually　to
the　lowest　level　of　the　hollow　about　four　hundred　yards　distant；　all　of
which　was　in　cultivation；　the　broad…beans　were　in　blossom；　and　a　species
of　trefoil　was　already　eight　or　nine　inches　high　（22nd　February）；　this
was　in　anticipation　of　a　lack　of　natural　pasturage。

It　was　pitiable　to　see　the　wretched　condition　of　the　cattle　throughout
this　district；　the　absence　of　rain　had　prevented　the　growth　of　the　usual
herbaceous　plants；　and　the　animals　were　forced　to　seek　unnatural　food
produced　in　the　stagnant　swamps；　these　were　full　of　skeletons　and
carcasses　of　oxen；　that　afforded　bones　of　contention　for　the　numerous
village　dogs　who　acted　as　scavengers。　When　the　droves　of　oxen　returned
from　pasture　every　evening；　many　were　in　a　state　of　weakness　that
scarcely　allowed　them　step　by　step　to　ascend　the　rising　ground；　all　were
reduced　to　mere　skin　and　bones；　and　it　would　have　been　a　mercy　to　have
put　them　out　of　their　misery。　I　was　assured　that；　〃the　few　whose
constitution　could　hold　out　for　another　six　weeks　would　recover　when　the
trefoil　should　be　fit　to　cut。〃

I　daily　walked　over　the　adjoining　country；　and　there　was　little
difficulty　in　discovering　the　origin　of　M。　Mattei's　water　sources。　Upon
the　heights　behind　our　camp；　a　plateau　of　many　miles　in　extent；　with　an
almost　imperceptible　inclination　towards　the　south…east；　received　the
rainfall；　in　addition　to　the　subterranean　drainage　of　the　hills　in　the
far　distance。　A　great　portion　of　this　area　was　uncultivated；　as　the
sedimentary　limestone　was　generally　close　to　the　surface；　this　was
covered　with　the　usual　prickly　shrubs　that　some　writers　have　misnamed
〃heath；〃　together　with　the　highly　aromatic　herbs　that　seem　to　delight　in
a　thirsty　soil；　among　these　is　a　thorny　species　of　wild　thyme；　that　is　a
favourite　food　for　hares。　In　some　places　the　soil　was　red；　forming　a
strong　contrast　to　the　white　surface　around；　and　in　such　spots　the　earth
had　been　already　ploughed　in　preparation　for　the　forthcoming　season。　The
large　area　at　a　higher　altitude　formed　an　example　of　a　principle　that
may　be　accepted　as　the　rule　throughout　the　island。　In　walking　over　this
extensive　surface；　there　was　occasionally　a　hollow；　drum…like　sound
beneath　the　feet；　denoting　subterranean　cavities　in　the　porous　and
soluble　strata　beneath　the　harder　upper　stratum。　It　was　a　natural
consequence　that　a　substratum　impervious　to　water　should　form　a　bed　at　a
certain　level　to　retain　the　drainage：　by　tapping　this　bed　at　any　point；
the　water　would　be　discovered；　but　by　piercing　the　surface　below　this
level；　the　hydraulic　pressure　would　force　the　water　into　a　running
stream。

This　M。　Mattei　has　accomplished；　not　as　a　new　invention；　but　as　the
application　of　a　rule　well　known　to　the　Cypriotes　from　ancient　times；
and　I　repeat　my　argument；　that；　〃the　hereditary　ability　of　these　people
in　discovering　and　utilising　springs　is　a　proof　that　a　scarcity　of　water
has　been　a　chronic　difficulty　in　this　island　from　remote　periods；　and
that　no　important　change　has　been　occasioned　by　the　sensational
destruction　of　forests　influencing　the　rainfall；〃　&c。；　&c。；　&c。　In　my
opinion；　the　whole　of　the　now　desolate　Messaria　district　may　be　rendered
fruitful　and　permanently　abundant　by　the　scientific　employment　of　a
water…power　which　already　exists；　although　unseen　and　undeveloped。

It　was　quite　impossible　to　proceed　to　Famagousta　with　the　vans；　and
there　was　no　object　in　courting　their　destruction　by　a　desperate　advance
at　all　hazards；　as　we　should　have　in　any　case　been　obliged　eventually　to
renew　the　difficulty　when　retracing　our　route。　I　therefore　cantered　in
upon　my　mule；　with　the　guide　who　always　lost　his　way；　Hadji　Christo。
This　man　was　a　great　ruffian；　and　had　laws　existed　for　the　prevention　of
cruelty　to　animals；　I　would　have　prosecuted　him；　nominally　he　had　the
charge　of　the　mule　and　two　ponies；　but　he　illtreated　these　poor　animals；
and　the　donkeys　also；　in　a　disgraceful　manner。　However；　I　had　no　other
guide；　and　although　I　knew　him　to　be　in　partnership　with　some
Will…o'…the…wisp；　I　was　obliged　to　follow　him。　It　was　an　easy　course　for
saddle…animals；　as　the　cathedral　of　Famagousta　formed　the　prominent
point；　therefore　a　steeple…chase　might　have　been　the　direct
cross…country　way。　There　was　no　change　in　the　usual　features　of　the
barren　landscape。　We　kept　upon　the　high　ground　on　the　right；　looking
down　upon　the　dreary　flat　for　twenty　miles　to　our　left。　Occasionally　we
passed　villages；　all　of　which　were　mere　copies　of　each　other　in　filth
and　squalor。　The　dogs　barked　and　snapped　ineffectually　at　our　heels　as
we　cantered　through；　the　civil　and　ever…courteous　people　turned　out　and
salaamed；　and　we　quickly　accomplished　the　twelve　miles　and　approached
the　walls　of　Famagousta。　Nothing　that　I　saw　in　Cyprus　has　impressed　me
so　much　as　the　site　of　this　powerful　fortress　and　once　important　city。　I
lunched　with　Captain　Inglis；　who　as　chief　commissioner　of　the　district；
most　kindly　received　me；　and　I　rode　home　afterwards；　my　guide；　Hadji
Christo；　in　spite　of　my　assurances　that　he　had　mistaken　the　route；
persisted　that　there　were　many