cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第28部分

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forts　upon　as　many　points　which　now　exist　would　render　Famagousta
impregnable；　should　the　present　works　be　repaired；　and　improved　by　some
slight　modifications。

I　had　been　through　the　fortifications　upon　a　former　occasion；　when　I　had
the　advantage　of　Captain　Inglis　the　chief　commissioner's　guidance；　but
they　are　so　extensive　and　of　such　exceeding　interest　that　many　days
might　be　expended　in　a　study　of　the　details。

Upon　entering　the　fortress　by　the　drawbridge　we　passed　through　the
arched　and　dark　way　beneath　the　ramparts；　and　emerged　into　a　narrow
street；　which　was　swept　and　free　from　the　usual　impurities　of　a　Turkish
town；　thus　exhibiting　proofs　of　a　British　occupation。　A　perfect
labyrinth　of　narrow　lanes；　bordered　by　most　inferior　dwellings；　confused
a　stranger；　but　with　the　assistance　of　a　guide　I　reached　the　residence
of　the　chief　commissioner　and　the　various　officers　attached　to　the
establishment。　Beyond　this　all　modern　buildings　ceased；　and　Famagousta
was　presented　as　it　must　have　appeared　after　the　sack　and　utter
destruction　by　the　Turks　in　1571。　It　looked　as　though　a　town　had　been
shattered　and　utterly　destroyed　by　an　earth…quake；　whose　terrible
tremblings　had　shaken　every　house　to　its　foundation；　and　left　nothing
but　shapeless　heaps　of　squared　stones。　O　Turk！　insatiable　in
destruction；　who　breaks　down；　but　never　restores；　what　a　picture　of
desolation　was　here！　Three　centuries　had　passed　away　since　by　treachery
the　place　was　won；　and　from　that　hour　the　neglected　harbour　had　silted
up　and　ceased　to　be；　the　stones　of　palaces　rested　where　they　fell；　the
filth　of　ages　sweltered　among　these　blood…sodden　ruins；　and　the　proverb
seemed　fulfilled；　〃The　grass　never　grows　on　the　foot…print　of　the　Turk。〃
I　never　saw　so　fearful　an　example　of　ruin。

Although　the　town　was　in　this　hideous　state；　the　fortifications　were　in
very　tolerable　repair；　and　had　guns　been　mounted　an　enemy　would　quickly
have　acknowledged　their　formidable　importance。　Time　appeared　to　be
almost　harmless　in　attacks　against　these　vast　piles　of　solid　masonry。
The　parapets　in　the　angles　of　the　embrasures　were　twenty…five　and
twenty…seven　feet　in　thickness。　From　these　we　looked　down　forty…five　and
fifty　feet　into　the　ditch　beneath。　As　we　walked　round　the　ramparts　and
various　bastions　we　remarked　the　enormous　strength　of　the　commanding
cavaliers　to　which　I　alluded　from　the　outside　appearance　of　the　forts。
There　were　also　vast　subterranean　works；　store…houses；　magazines；
cannon…foundries；　and　all　the　appliances　of　a　first…class　fortified　town
and　arsenal；　but　these　were　of　course　empty；　and　with　the　exception　of　a
small　chamber　near　the　water…gate；　which　contained　a　number　of　rusty
helmets　and　breastplates；　there　was　no　object　of　interest　beyond　the
actual　plan　of　the　defences。

The　water…gate　was　approached　by　a　winding　entrance　beneath　a　powerful
circular　bastion　from　an　extremely　narrow　quay；　from　which　the　remains
of　a　once　powerful　mote　projected　about　120　yards　into　the　sea　and
commanded　the　inner　harbour。　This　was　now　a　mere　line　of　loose　and
disjointed　stones。　A　citadel　that　is　separated　from　the　main　fortress　by
a　wet　ditch　which　communicates　with　the　sea　by　an　adit　beneath　the　wall
commands　the　harbour　on　the　east　side。　This　ditch　is　as　usual　scarped
from　the　rock；　and　otherwise　of　solid　masonry；　should　the　fortress　have
been　successfully　carried　by　assault　on　the　land　side；　a　vigorous
defence　might　have　been　maintained　in　this　independent　citadel　until
either　reinforcements　should　arrive　by　sea；　or　an　escape　might　be
effected　to　friendly　vessels。

It　is　commonly　asserted　that　Famagousta　under　the　Lusignans　and
Venetians　〃counted　its　churches　by　hundreds　and　its　palatial　mansions　by
thousands。〃　It　would　certainly　have　been　impossible　that　they　could　have
existed　within　the　present　area；　as　a　large　extent　must　have　been
required　for　barrack　accommodation　for　the　garrison；　parade…grounds；　&c。
There　are　ruins　of　several　fine　churches　with　the　frescoes　still　visible
upon　the　walls。　The　Cathedral　of　St。　Nicholas　is　a　beautiful　object　in
the　Gothic　style。　Although　dismantled　and　converted　into　a　mosque　by　the
Turks；　the　roof　is　in　good　repair；　and　its　magnificent　proportions
remain；　but　they　are　marred　by　the　stopping　of　the　windows　with　rough
stones　and　mortar。　The　total　length　of　the　cathedral　is　172　feet　6。5
inches。　Length　of　apse　（included　in　above）　30　feet　9　inches；　breadth　of
apse　32　feet　3　inches；　breadth　of　cathedral　74　feet　1　inch；
circumference　of　pillars　15　feet　3　inches；　there　being　12　pillars　in
all。

On　the　outside　walls　are　the　marks　of　various　cannon…shot　which　appear
to　have　been　successfully　resisted　by　the　soft　but　tough　sedimentary
limestone；　which　is　of　similar　quality　to　that　used　in　the　construction
of　the　fortress。　I　observed　that　the　impact　of　the　shot　has　been
confined　to　the　immediate　neighbourhood　of　the　blow；　and　that　the
concussion　has　not　been　communicated　to　the　adjoining　stone；　but　has
expended　itself　in　crumbling　the　opposing　surface　to　the　depth　in　which
it　was　eventually　imbedded。　It　would　be　interesting　to　try　some
experiments　upon　those　walls　of　Famagousta　（which　may　already　require
repair　or　alteration）　with　modern　heavy　artillery；　as　should　this　stone
exhibit　unusual　powers　of　resistance　it　may　become　valuable。　Nothing
would　be　easier　than　to　fire　a　few　rounds　from　a　ship's　battery　to　prove
the　question。

The　courtyard　of　an　ancient　Venetian　palace　now　forms　the　British
parade…ground。　This　faces　the　cathedral　entrance；　and　is　ornamented　by
piles　of　marble　cannon…shot；　which　are　upwards　of　ten　inches　in
diameter；　these　were　the　Venetian　relics　of　the　siege　of　1571。

From　Cape　Greco　to　Cape　Elaea；　south　to　north；　is　about　twenty…five
miles；　these　points　form　the　bay；　nine　miles　in　extreme　width。　Although
open　to　the　east　and　south…east；　Famagousta　is　the　only　real　harbour　in
Cyprus　that　can　be　available　for　large　vessels；　and　there　can　be　no
doubt　that　a　very　moderate　outlay　would　not　only　restore　its　ancient
importance；　but　would　make　those　additions　of　modern　times　that　are
required　for　a　first…rate　and　impregnable　coaling…station　and　arsenal。

It　was　blowing　a　fresh　gale　from　the　south…east　when　I　was　standing　on
the　ramparts　facing　the　sea　above　the　water…gate；　and　an　admirable
example　was　displayed　in　the　wave…breaking　power　of　the　long　line　of
sunken　reefs　which　form　a　continuation　of　those　natural　breakwaters
above　the　surface　that　have　formed　the　harbour。　A　tremendous　surf
exhibited　a　creamy　streak　along　the　margin　of　comparatively　still　water
within　the　reefs　for　about　a　mile　parallel　with　the　shore；　comprising　an
area　of　about　700　yards'　width　at　the　extremity　of　the　sunken　rocks；　and
500　from　the　existing　breakwater　exactly　opposite　the　water…gate。
Within　this　secure　haven　several　native　vessels　were　snugly　at　anchor；
but　ships　of　war　would　hardly　venture　among　the　varying　shallows　caused
by　centuries　of　silt；　such　large　vessels　generally　anchor　in　seventeen
fathoms　about　a　mile　from　the　shore；　but　they　are　completely　exposed　to
wind　from　east　and　south…east。　The　inner　harbour　is　formed　by　the
artificial　connection　of　raised　heads　of　projecting　reefs　by　stone
jetties。　At　right　angles　with　this　complete　defence　of　limestone　rock　is
a　wall　or　jetty　from　the　shore；　which　for　a　distance　of　170　yards
incloses　the　basin　of　perfectly　still　water　within。　The　entrance　to　this
snug　little　port　is　about　forty　yards　in　width；　and　the　depth　is　most
irregular；　varying　from　dry　silt　close　to　the　south　end　of　the　reefs　up
to　twelve　feet　beneath　the　walls　of　the　fortress。　There　were　many　small
coasting…vessels　and　caiques　which　trade　between　the　various　ports　of
Syria　and　Asia　Minor；　all　having　sought　shelter　from　the　bad　weather
within　the　port；　and　the　picture　presented　during　the　strong　gale　was
thoroughly　illustrative　of　the　natural　advantages　and　the　future
requirements　of　the　harbour。　The　long　line　of　reefs　which　form　the　outer
protection　would；　were　they　exposed　in　their　whole　length；　represent　an
irregular　incline　from　about　twelve　feet　above　the　sea　level　at　the
southern　end　to　three　fathoms　below　water　at　the　northern　extremity。　A
wedge　laid　with　its　broad　base　to　the　south　would　represent　the
inclination　of　this　long　line　of　useful　reef；　which　can　be　converted
into　a　sea…wall　by　simply　filling…in　with　blocks　of　concrete　to　a
sufficient　height　above　the　extreme　water…mark。　The　ancient　jetty　which
connects　the　small　islands　that　form　the　northern　head　of　the　reef　is　in
itself　an　example　of　the　necessity　of　such　an　extension　throughout　the
line。　A　natural　headland　terminating　in　disconnected　rocks　upon　the
north　boundary　of　the　reef　about　half　a　mile　above　the　fortress　is　a
secure　protection　from　the　sea；　but　it　admits　the　silt。　This　has
completely　filled　in　a　considerable　portion　of　the　original　harbour；　and
were　this　sea…communication　destroyed　by　connecting　the　various　reefs
with　the　main　headland；　the　evil　would　be　at　once　prevented；　and　the
inclosed　area　might　be　cleansed　by　dredging。　This　would　not　only　add　to
the　accommodation　of　the　inner　harbour　by　a　considerable　extension；　but
it　would　afford　an　admirable　position　for　a　series　of　docks；　and　yards
for　the　repairing　of　vessels。　I　walked　through　the　whole　of　this
confined　mass　of　rocks；　silt；　and　water　only　a　few　inches　deep；　and　was
much　impressed　with　the　capabilities　of　the　locality。　Such　powerful
dredgers　as　are　used　in　the　Suez　Canal　would　clear　away　the　deposit；
with　an　outlay　that　could　be　calculated　by　the　cubic　contents；　and　the
large　margin　that　must　generally　be　allowed　in　all　estimates　for　harbour
works　would；　in　the　case　of　Famagousta；　be　superfluous。

There　are　two　enemies　to　be　resistedthe　sea；　and　the　silt。　The　latter
has　been　and　still　is　brought　down　by　the　Pedias　river；　this　has
entirely　blocked　the　ancient　harbour　of　Salamis；　and　partially　destroyed
that　of　Famagousta。　The　engineer　has　to　repel　these　enemies；　and　he
possesses　a　great　advantage　in　the　fact　that　Famagousta　has　already
existed　as　a　most　important　harbour；　therefore　he　is　not　experimenting
upon　an　unknown　bottom。　The　line　of　reefs　affords　the　engi