cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第32部分

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the　well…provided　party　on　the　heights　above　us；　who　were　enjoying　the
hospitality　of　Colonel　Greaves。　We　comforted　ourselves　with　the　idea
that　we　had　at　all　events　been　wise　in　foregoing　pleasure　when　upon　the
march；　as　the　camels　had　been　ordered　to　start　from　Lefkosia；　and　it
would　be　advisable　that　the　camp　should　be　arranged　without　delay。　We
accordingly　dismounted　about　half　a　mile　from　Kyrenia；　and　having　tied
the　animals　beneath　a　wide…spreading　caroub；　we　selected　another　tree；
beneath　which　we　sat　to　await　the　arrival　of　the　camels　and　servants；　in
the　meantime　I　sent　the　muleteer　into　the　town　to　buy　us　something　to
eat。　After　about　an　hour　he　returned；　with　a　bottle　of　Commandoria　wine；
a　bunch　of　raw　onions；　a　small　goat's…milk　cheese；　a　loaf　of　brown
native　bread；　and　a　few　cigarettes；　which　the　good；　thoughtful　fellow
had　made　himself　for　my　own　private　enjoyment。　Many　years　of　my　life
have　been　passed　in　picnicking；　and　when　really　hungry；　it　is
astonishing　how　vulgar　diet　is　appreciated；　we　regretted　the　loss　of　our
friends；　but　we　nevertheless　enjoyed　the　simple　fare；　and　having　looked
at　our　watches；　we　speculated　upon　the　probable　arrival　of　the　camels
and　luggage；　and　waited　patiently　beneath　the　tree。

There　is　a　limit　to　all　endurance；　and　when　5　P。M。　arrived　without　a
sign　of　camels；　we　came　to　the　conclusion　that　something　had　gone　wrong。
It　was　in　vain　that　I　had　searched　the　pass　with　my　binocular；　only　the
white　thread　between　the　green　shrubs　appeared；　that　denoted　the　path；
and　this　was　desolate。

At　length　I　observed　something　moving　on　the　crest　of　the　pass：　mules　or
horses！　then　a　parasol！　somebody　was　coming；　most　likely　returning　to
Kyrenia　from　the　picnic？　Presently　a　mule；　saddled　but　without　a　rider；
came　galloping　down　the　road。　This　we　stopped；　and　secured；　it　looked
like　a　practical　result　of　a　good　luncheon　and　champagne　cup。　Shortly
after　this　first　appearance　a　dismounted　English　servant　came　walking
down　the　road　after　his　mule；　which　he　was　happy　to　recover　from　our
hands。　He　had　neither　seen　nor　heard　anything　of　our　camels　or　people；
but　his　master；　the　chief　commissioner　of　Kyrenia　（Dr。　Holbeach；　60th
Rifles）；　was　approaching；　together　with　Mr。　and　Mrs。　Stevenson；　all　of
whom　were　returning　from　St。　Hilarion。　At　length　the　distant　parasol
drew　nearer；　and　by　degrees　we　could　distinguish　the　party　as　they
emerged　from　the　pass　upon　the　broad　straight　road。

As　there　are　no　highwaymen　in　Cyprus；　I　had　no　hesitation　in　walking
suddenly　out　of　the　green　wood　upon　the　road…side　and　intercepting　them
as　they　arrived　in　front　of　our　position；　I　explained　that　we　were
〃waifs　and　strays〃　upon　the　wide　world　of　Cyprus　without　baggage　or
servants；　or；　in　fact；　what　Shakespeare　calls　〃sans　everything。〃　Mr。
Holbeach　with　much　kindness　and　hospitality　captured　us　as　vagrants；　and
insisted　upon　escorting　us　to　his　house。　Mrs。　Stevenson　was　good　enough
to　supply　Lady　Baker　with　a　few　little　necessaries　for　the　night；　and
Mr。　Holbeach；　having　thoughtfully　made　up　an　impromptu　little
dinner…party　of　all　named；　we　passed　a　most　pleasant　evening；　although　I
fear　that　our　sudden　invasion　of　his　bachelor's　quarters　must　have
caused　him　some　inconvenience。

On　the　following　morning；　we　enjoyed　the　splendid　view　from　the　covered
balcony　at　the　back　of　Mr。　Holbeach's　house；　which　showed　the　richest
foreground　in　Cyprus　in　the　dark　green　of　caroub…forest　and　gardens　of
fruit…trees　intermingled　with　plots　of　barley　already　in　the　ear。　This
rich　front　was　backed　by　the　wall　of　dark　limestone　cliffs　two　miles
distant；　3000　feet　elevation；　with　the　castles　of　Buffavento　and　St。
Hilarion　perched　left　and　right　on　the　giddy　summits　of　the　highest
crags；　which　in　the　clear　atmosphere　apparently　overhung　our　position。
We　then　breakfasted；　took　leave　of　our　hospitable　host；　and　rode　back　to
Lefkosia　to　inquire　into　the　cause　of　the　delay。

On　arrival　we　found　a　string　of　mules　just　starting；　as　the　camels　that
had　been　engaged　yesterday　had　never　appeared。　I　sent　off　the　servants
and　animals；　with　orders　to　pitch　the　tent　upon　the　site　of　the　old　camp
of　the　42nd　Highlanders；　within　a　mile　of　Kyrenia；　we　then　once　more
encroached　upon　the　kindness　of　Sir　Garnet　and　Lady　Wolseley　for　the
night。　On　the　following　morning　we　rode　to　Kyrenia；　sixteen　miles；　and
found　tents　pitched　in　a　delightful　situation；　and　the　camp　swept　and
arranged　in　perfect　order。　There　could　not　have　been　a　better　site　for　a
military　camp；　as　the　ground　was　firm　and　sloped　gradually　towards　the
sea；　above　which　the　elevation　may　have　been　about　120　feet。　The
beautiful　caroub…trees　afforded　a　dense　shade　for　individual　tents　and
for　unlimited　numbers　of　men。　The　ground　had　been　well　drained；　and
every　care　had　been　taken　to　ensure　the　health　of　the　troops；　but　in
spite　of　all　sanitary　arrangements　they　had　suffered　severely　from
fever；　by　which；　although　only　four　had　actually　succumbed；　and　now　lay
in　the　lonely　little　cemetery　close　to　our　tents；　the　regiment　had　been
demoralised；　and　was　withdrawn　from　this　lonely　position　completely
fever…smitten。　I　made　close　inquiries　among　the　natives；　and　all　agreed
that　the　past　year；　having　been　unusually　wet；　had　been　exceptionally
unhealthy；　and　the　inhabitants　had　suffered　almost　to　the　same　degree　as
the　Europeans。　It　was　painfully　clear　that　when　the　rainfall　was
sufficiently　plentiful　to　produce　abundant　harvests　it　at　the　same　time
ensured　a　crop　of　fevers。

We　remained　ten　days　in　our　Kyrenia　camp；　and　we　were　both　sorry　to
leave；　as　the　neighbourhood　is　exceedingly　beautiful　and　full　of
interest；　there　is　certainly　no　portion　of　Cyprus　that　can　equal　it　in
the　picturesque；　or　in　the　extreme　richness　of　genuine　forest…trees　and
foliage。

The　town　is　small　and　most　irregular：　an　old　Turkish　graveyard　forms　a
boundary　upon　the　outskirts　opposite　the　fort；　precisely　similar　in
position　to　that　of　Famagousta。　Within　300　paces　of　this　point　are　the
principal　houses；　mostly　well　built　of　stone　and　surrounded　by
high…walled　gardens　fruitful　in　oranges；　lemons；　almonds；　apricots；
figs；　and　the　fruits　commonly　known　throughout　the　island。　The　houses
are　generally　one　story　above　the　ground…floor；　with　a　wide　balcony　that
forms　an　open　face　to　the　first…floor　of　five　or　six　arches；　which
support　the　roof　upon　that　side。　This　is　a　convenient　plan　for　the
climate；　as　it　admits　fresh　air　to　all　the　rooms　which　open　into　the
balcony；　in　fact　it　is　an　open　landing　to　the　staircase。　A　few
date…palms　ornament　the　gardens；　the　presence　of　these　graceful　trees
being　a　sure　sign　of　the　preponderance　of　Turks　in　the　population。

The　fort　of　Kyrenia　is　a　great　curiosity；　as　it　forms　a　portion　of　the
harbour；　being　situated　like　the　nose　in　a　pair　of　spectacles；　the
basins　being　the　eyes　right　and　left。　The　actual　defences　are　intact；
although　the　inner　accommodation　for　barracks；　magazines；　&c。；　&c。；
require　great　repairs　and　alteration。　The　walls　are　of　solid　squared
masonry；　the　stones　jointed　with　the　usual　imperishable　cement；　and　rise
to　the　great　perpendicular　height　of　upwards　of　seventy　feet　sheer　from
the　bottom　of　the　fosse。　There　is　only　one　entrance；　by　a　narrow　bridge
upon　arches；　across　the　extremely　wide　and　deep　ditch；　terminating　near
the　gateway　by　a　drawbridge；　which　admits　an　entry　in　the　face　of　the
immense　wall；　with　portcullis　and　iron…bound　hinged　gate。　The　ramparts
overlooking　the　town　and　harbour　on　the　west　face　are　147　yards　in
length；　exclusive　of　the　tower；　and　the　embrasures　of　solid　masonry
measured　at　the　angle　are　generally　twenty…four　feet　in　thickness。　The
fort　is　nearly　square；　and　is　flanked　at　each　corner　by　a　circular　tower
which　would　completely　enfilade　the　ditch　by　several　tiers　of　guns。　This
powerful　fortress　is　washed　by　the　sea　upon　two　sides　（the　north　and
east）；　and　the　foundations　upon　the　native　rock　are　protected　from　the
action　of　the　waves　by　reefs　and　huge　fragments　of　natural　detached
masses　which　characterise　this　portion　of　the　coast。　As　I　stood　upon　the
parapet　facing　north　I　obtained　an　admirable　view　of　the　original
harbours　to　my　left　and　right；　and　although　they　could　never　have
admitted　large　vessels；　I　was　struck　by　the　great　importance　of　this
sole　place　of　refuge　upon　the　northern　coast　of　Cyprus；　which　in　former
times　had　suggested　such　a　formidable　arrangement　for　defence。　The　fort
was　constructed　by　the　Venetians；　but　there　are　fallen　masses　of　much
older　works　that　now　lie　at　the　foot　of　the　sea…face；　and　add　to　the
natural　reefs　in　defending　the　foundations　from　the　breaking　water。

The　style　of　this　fortress　suggests　a　date　anterior　to　Famagousta；　as　it
is　devoid　of　cavaliers　and　depends　for　its　defence　upon　the　simple
flanking　fire　of　the　four　towers　and　the　great　height　and　thickness　of
the　walls。　It　is　supplied　with　fresh　water　by　an　aqueduct；　and　is
provided　with　immense　reservoirs　of　masonry　to　contain　a　sufficient
quantity　during　a　prolonged　siege；　when　the　outer　aqueduct　might　be
destroyed　by　the　enemy。　There　are　extensive　subterranean　caves　and
dungeons；　but　these　have　not　yet　been　explored。　Above　this　fine　old
specimen　of　Venetian　fortifications；　upon　the　high　platform　of　the　tower
facing　the　harbour；　was　a　flag…staff；　upon　which　a　small　bundle　of　rags
fluttered　in　the　strong　wind；　as　though　they；　had　been　arranged　to
frighten　the　jackdaws　from　building　within　the　crevices　of　masonry。　It
appeared　that　this　miserable　remnant　of　tattered　bunting　had　once
represented　a　British　Union　Jack！　and　the　colourless；　poverty…stricken
thing　flapped　and　cracked　as　it　tore　itself　into　the　finest　threads　of
misery　in　the　gale；　too　truly　representing　the　result　of　our　ambiguous
position　according　to　the　terms　of　the　Cyprian　occupation。　I　felt
ashamed　that　such　an　exhibition　should　meet　the　eye　of　any　foreign　ship
upon　entering　the　harbour　of　Kyrenia；　and　I　was　informed　〃that　it　was
the　only　flag　that　was　possessed　by　the　authorities。〃　As　all　the　revenue
of　the　island　was　handed　over　to　the　Porte　excepting　a　bagatelle
insufficient　for　the　requirements　of　the　country；　the　really　overworked
and　energetic　servants