cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第33部分

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insufficient　for　the　requirements　of　the　country；　the　really　overworked
and　energetic　servants　of　the　Crown　were　absolutely　obliged　to　practise
a　most　rigid　economy；　commencing　with　their　own　salaries；　equally
vexatious　to　themselves　and　unworthy　of　our　high　position。

The　curious　collection　of　old　cannon　had　all　been　removed　by　the　Turks；
but　one　iron　piece　remained；　which；　being　almost　worthless　as　metal；　had
been　left　behind　when　the　bronze　guns　had　been　shipped　to
Constantinople。　This　was　a　great　curiosity；　as　it　somewhat　resembled　a
hand…bell　about　five　feet　in　length；　the　bell　which　formed　the　mouth　to
receive　the　ball　was　only　two　feet　in　length；　although　the　muzzle　was
sufficiently　wide　to　admit　the　stone　projectile　of　nineteen　inches
diameter。　The　portion　which　resembled　the　handle　of　a　bell　was　the
continuation　which　formed　the　narrow　chamber　for　the　powder；　this　was
about　three　feet　long　and　eight　inches　thick*。　（*These　measurements　are
from　memory；　excepting　the　diameter　of　muzzle；　which　I　took　on　the
spot。）　There　were　no　trunnions　to　this　singular　old　gun；　but　it　may　have
been　lashed　to　some　lever　which　could　be　raised　or　depressed；　and　it　was
evidently　intended　for　firing　into　shipping　from　the　fort　walls；　to
command　the　harbour　at　a　short　range。　It　had　been　cast　with　concentric
rings；　which　I　examined　carefully；　as　at　first　I　imagined　they　had　been
wrought…iron　shrunk　on　to　the　casting：　this　was　not　the　case；　but　the
extra　thickness　of　metal　at　the　rings　added　sufficient　strength。　The
large　stone　shot；　formed　of　a　peculiarly　hard　metamorphous　rock　（a
conglomerate　of　matter　that　had　been　fused　by　heat）；　were　to　be　seen　in
various　positions　within　the　fortress。　A　few　were　on　the　parapet　above
the　drawbridge；　as　though　prepared　for　rolling　over　upon　an　assaulting
party。　I　found　this　quality　of　rock　upon　the　mountains　within　two　miles
of　Kyrenia。

There　were　evidently　two　harbours；　which　included　the　small　bay　upon
either　side　of　the　present　fort；　that　upon　the　west　was　the　most
important；　as　the　depth　of　water　is　greater；　and　it　shows　evident　signs
of　having　received　peculiar　attention。　The　remains　of　the　ancient　moles
still　exist；　and　afford　considerable　protection；　but　the　sea　has　broken
through　in　several　places　and　washed　away　the　upper　tiers　of　stones。
These　moles　were　carefully　constructed　by　laying　the　masonry　upon　a
foundation　of　hydraulic　cement；　which　connected　the　various　natural
rocks；　the　layer　of　cement　still　exists；　while　the　squared　blocks　of　the
original　surface　may　be　seen　at　the　bottom；　where　they　have　been
deposited　by　the　waves。　Like　all　defensive　works　in　historical
countries；　those　of　Kyrenia　have　undergone　continual　changes　and
modifications；　as　from　time　to　time　alterations　may　have　been　suggested
by　successful　attacks。　In　a　ruined　tower　which；　completely　isolated
within　the　sea；　commanded　the　entrance　of　the　harbour　on　the　west；　I
observed　that　an　ancient　column　of　white　marble　from　some　old　building
has　been　used　as　a　key　to　prevent　the　large　squared　stones　from　yielding
to　the　constant　vibration　caused　by　the　breaking　waves。　Each　tier　of
stones　has　been　cut　at　the　central　edge　to　form　a　half…circle　where　the
edges　of　the　adjoining　blocks　were　connected；　those　have　been　similarly
shaped　to　produce　a　complete　circle　when　faced　together。　The　squared
stones　in　the　lower　and　upper　tiers　have　been　perforated　in　a　circle；　so
that　when　several　courses　of　masonry　were　completed；　the　hole
represented　a　shaft　of　about　twelve　inches　diameter；　sunk　from　top　to
bottom；　the　marble　column　has　been　inserted　from　the　top；　and　has　tied
each　course　effectively　together；　the　havoc　occasioned　in　this　tower　of
solid　squared　blocks　is　the　work　of　man；　the　stones　have　until　recently
been　removed　for　the　purposes　of　building。

Kyrenia　could　never　have　been　a　perfectly　safe　harbour　in　all　weathers；
as　the　entrance　is　open　to　the　north。　There　is　a　slight　turn　to　the
east；　which　might　have　protected　a　few　small　vessels　during　a　northerly
gale；　but　this　portion　is　now　silted　up；　and　it　should　be　cleared　by
dredging。　The　houses　rise　above　the　harbour　from　the　water's　edge　to　the
cliffs；　forming　a　horseshoe　shape。　Mr。　Holbeach　had　just　completed　a
small　quay　of　masonry；　and　a　very　moderate　outlay　would　restore　the
ancient　mole　and　render　Kyrenia　an　important　port　for　the　trading
vessels　of　Syria　and　Asia　Minor。　When　a　good　carriage…road　shall　be
completed　to　the　capital；　Lefkosia；　only　sixteen　miles　distant；　the
value　of　Kyrenia　as　a　commercial　harbour　will　be　much　enhanced。　There
are　also　important　towns　with　a　considerable　population　within　eight　or
nine　miles　of　Kyrenia　on　the　west：　Carava　and　Lapithas　would　offer
markets　for　a　great　extension　of　trade；　and　Morphu　would　be　brought
within　the　same　commercial　circle。　There　is　a　peculiar　advantage
throughout　the　ports　of　Cyprus　in　the　presence　of　stone　quarries　upon
the　spot　where　the　material　is　required；　this　is　specially　marked　at
Kyrenia；　where　the　solid　rock；　with　its　tombs；　cave…dwellings；　and
ancient　quarries；　is　on　the　actual　borders　of　the　sea；　within　a　few
yards　of　the　existing　harbour。　There　would　be　no　great　difficulty　in
converting　these　quarries　into　a　dock；　should　a　demand　for　stone　be
sufficient　to　repay　the　outlay　for　cutting　the　supply；　according　to　the
example　already　exhibited　and　left　to　us　by　the　ancients。

The　quarries　of　Kyrenia　form　the　chief　curiosity　of　the　locality。　The
rock　is　the　sedimentary　limestone　mixed　with　a　proportion　of　sand　that
is　the　characteristic　geological　feature　around　the　coast　of　Cyprus；　but
in　these　quarries　the　stone　is　perfectly　solid　and　free　from　fissures；
which　enables　the　mason　to　obtain　blocks　of　any　size。　From　prehistoric
times　the　rock　of　Kyrenia；　which　rises　about　forty　feet　above　the
sea…level；　has　been　worked　out　upon　the　most　careful　method；　every　block
has　been　cut　from　the　parent　mass　by　measurement；　and　no　broken　edges
have　been　permitted　to　destroy　the　symmetry　of　the　adjoining　stone。　The
work　was　commenced　from　the　top；　or　surface　of　the　rock；　and　a　smooth
cliff　face　has　been　produced　as　the　first　operation；　upon　completion　the
surface　has　been　lined　out　parallel　with　the　perpendicular　face；　and　the
blocks　have　been　carefully　chiselled　and　removed　by　wedges　driven
horizontally　from　beneath。　In　this　manner　the　rock　has　been　worked　until
it　resembled　a　flight　of　steps；　which　remain　in　many　places　perfect　to
the　present　hour。　The　entire　fortress　and　town　have　been　constructed
from　these　quarries；　and　there　can　be　no　doubt　that　when　Kyrenia　was
originally　founded　by　the　Dorian　colonists　under　Cepheus　and　Praxander
the　stones　were　obtained　from　the　existing　site。　There　is　a　considerable
difference　in　the　quality　of　the　rock；　which　has　been　remarked　by　the
original　builders；　as　a　passage　has　been　cut　through　the　first　cliff
face　nearest　to　the　town；　and　the　desired　level　for　wheeled　conveyances
having　been　obtained；　the　workmen　have　discovered　a　superior　stone　as
they　proceeded　into　the　bowels　of　the　quarry。　They　have　accordingly
neglected　much　of　the　nearer　portion；　and　have　excavated　a　large　square；
always　pushing　forward　towards　the　west；　which　is　now　terminated　by　a
worked　perpendicular　face　and　a　series　of　steps　incomplete；　precisely　as
it　remained　when　the　last　chisel　relinquished　the　labour。

This　quality　of　rock　in　all　parts　of　Cyprus　is　cavernous；　and　the
natural　caves　have　suggested　to　the　ancients　an　artificial　extension
both　for　dwellings　and　for　cemeteries。　The　rock　is　easily　worked　by　the
mason's　pick；　and　near　the　town　I　observed　an　old　fort…ditch　which　had
been　originally　excavated　for　the　double　object　of　quarrying　building
stone　at　the　same　time　that　it　served　the　purpose　of　defence。　There
would　be　no　great　difficulty　in　connecting　the　ancient　quarry　with　the
harbour　by　cutting　a　canal　through　the　soft　rock　and　extending　the　depth
of　the　ancient　excavations。　It　is　well　known　to　all　quarrymen　that　the
stone　should　be　placed　in　a　building　according　to　the　position　in　which
it　lay　when　forming　the　original　rock。　Within　the　fortress　of　Kyrenia
there　are　many　examples　of　neglect；　where　the　masons　have　either
inverted　or　placed　the　stones　sideways；　in　which　case　the　action　of　the
weather　has　completely　honey…combed　and　reduced　the　material　to　an
appearance　of　decayed　coral。　I　observed　instances　of　similar　neglect
with　the　same　results　in　portions　of　the　fortress　of　Famagousta。

The　tombs　are　easily　distinguished　from　the　cave…dwellings　with　which
the　rocks　are　perforated；　as　they　are　merely　chambers　of　a　few　feet
square　sufficient　for　the　reception　of　a　limited　number　of　bodies；　the
dwellings　have　been　carefully　chiselled；　and　arranged　with　a　bench　cut
from　the　solid　rock　around　the　apartment。

The　remains　of　ancient　fortifications；　including　ruined　towers　and
ditches；　prove　that　in　former　times　Kyrenia　was　of　far　greater　extent
than　would　be　implied　by　its　present　small　proportions。　In　like　manner
with　Famagousta　this　powerful　fort　has　been　considered　as　a　position　to
be　occupied　exclusively　by　Turks。　The　population　of　the　town　is　now
about　600；　but　the　Greek　element　is　increasing　since　the　British
Convention　ensured　their　protection。

Our　camp　was　daily　visited　by　the　women　of　both　Turks　and　Cypriotes；　who
came　to　indulge　their　curiosity；　and　my　wife　had　some　difficulty　in
receiving　the　increasing　circle　of　acquaintance。　The　want　of　a　female
interpreter　was　at　first　acutely　felt；　as　the　conversation　was　much
restricted　when　Georgi　was　the　only　medium。　After　a　few　days　this
shyness　on　the　part　of　the　Turkish　ladies　wore　off；　and　Georgi；　who　was
a　good；　painstaking　young　fellow；　became　a　favourite；　some　of　these
ladies　were　exceedingly　gracious；　and　took　off　their　veils　when　in　the
tent　with　Lady　Baker　and　myself；　and　conversed　upon　various　subjects
with　much　intelligence。　A　few　were　decidedly　pretty；　all　were　studiously
clean　and　well　dressed；　and　they　formed　a　marked　contrast　in　appearance
and　general　style　to　the　Cypriote　women；　the　breed　was　superior；　their
hands　were　delicate　and　well　cared　for；　but　disfigured　by　the　prevalent
habit　of　staining　the　nails