cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第38部分

快捷操作: 按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页 按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页 按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部! 如果本书没有阅读完，想下次继续接着阅读，可使用上方 "收藏到我的浏览器" 功能 和 "加入书签" 功能！


way　for　our　advance；　that　otherwise　would　have　been　effectually　choked
by　the　throng　of　bush…and…faggot…laden　animals；　which　looked　like
〃Birnam…wood　marching　to　Dunsinane。〃　In　my　heart　I　immediately　forgave
the　poor　people；　I　knew　that　the　man　with　the　axe　who　marched　behind　was
as　ignorant；　and　not　so　strong；　as　his　donkey　who　carried　the　load。　They
had　been　both　subjects　of　a　bad　government；　and　it　was　not　their　fault
that　they　were　despoilers。　You　might　as　well　blame　the　wind　for　the
destruction　of　venerable　trees；　or　the　locusts　for　devouring　the　crops；
they　were　ungoverned；　and　unfortunately　the　instinct　of　uncivilised　man
is　to　destroy。　I　shall　say　more　upon　this　important　subject　when　we
arrive　among　the　last　remaining　forests　of　the　Troodos　mountains。

We　rode　onwards；　always　through　the　same　wilderness　of　old　tree…stems
hacked；　and　young　trees　that　would　be　hacked；　at　length　we　saw　on　a
cleared　space　in　the　distance　what　I　imagined　to　be　a　long　brown　rock
lying　upon　the　surface；　but　upon　riding　out　of　the　path　to　examine　this
object　I　found　it　was　a　splendid　trunk　of　a　pine…tree　more　that　two　feet
in　diameter。　Why　this　had　been　spared　for　so　many　years　I　cannot　say；
but　its　size　suggested　reflections　upon　the　original　forests　that　must
have　covered　the　surface　and　have　ornamented　the　once　beautiful　island
of　Cyprus；　now　denuded；　and　shorn　of　every　natural　attraction。

I　again　became　angry；　visions　of　the　past　primaeval　forests　appeared
before　me；　all　of　which　had　been　destroyed：　and　as　formerly　we　hung　a
man　in　England　for　cutting　an　oak　sapling；　I　thought　that　the　same　cure
for　timber…destroying　propensities　might　save　the　few　remaining　forests
in　this　island。　While　indulging　in　this　strain　of　unphilanthropic
thought　we　overtook　another　throng　of　wood…laden　donkeys　and　their
proprietors：　again　they　smiled；　courteously　salaamed；　and　vacated　the
path　for　us；　little　knowing　what　my　inward　thoughts　had　been。　Of　course
I　smiled；　salaamed　as　courteously　in　return；　and　forgave　them　at　once；
and　we　proceeded　on　our　way　condemning　Turkish　rule；　the　impecuniosity
of　our　own　government；　the　miserable　conditions　of　our　present
occupation；　which　rendered　Cyprus　neither　fish；　flesh；　nor　fowl；　and
thus　by　degrees　I　lashed　myself　into　the　worst　possible　frame　of　mind；
until　。　。　。　we　overtook　another　throng　of　polite　donkeys　and　their
proprietors；　who　salaamed　and　got　out　of　our　way。　Upon　suddenly　emerging
from　the　forest　upon　the　edge　of　a　steep　slope；　we　looked　down　upon　the
barren　sand…coloured　plain　of　Messaria。　Our　guide　Iiani；　who　had　been
asleep　and　awake　for　at　least　eight　miles；　suddenly　burst　out　into　a
ditty；　and　explained　that　a　village　in　the　plain　below　was　Morphu；　the
home　of　his　wife　and　family。

Even　from　this　elevated　point　of　view　Morphu　looked　a　long　way　off。　The
sleepy　Iiani　was　sufficiently　wide　awake　to　steer　for　his　wife；　and　we
had　made　a　long　march　already。　I　doubted　the　possibility　of　the　loaded
camels　ascending　the　steep　slope；　which　had　severely　tried　our　mules；
and　I　felt　sure　that　liani's　old　camel　would　either　knock　up　or　tumble
down　with　his　load；　should　he　attempt　the　ascent。　It　was　of　no　use　to
reflect；　and　as　Morphu　lay　before　us　in　the　now　barren　and　sun…smitten
plain；　we　touched　our　animals　with　the　spur　and　pressed　on。　Descending
for　some　miles；　we　passed　a　garden　of　olives；　that　must　have　been
upwards　of　a　thousand　years　old；　upon　our　right；　and　still　inclining
downwards；　through　ground　cultivated　with　cereals　completely　withered　by
the　drought；　we　at　length　arrived　at　the　broad　but　perfectly　dry　bed　of
the　river。　Crossing　this；　we　steered　for　a　grove　of　ancient　olive…trees；
which　I　at　once　selected　for　a　camping…place；　on　the　outskirts　of　the
town。　We　were　now　twenty…three　miles　from　Lapithus；　and　I　felt　sure　that
our　baggage　animals　would　not　arrive　till　nightfall。

As　we　sat　beneath　one　of　these　grand　old　olive…trees　alone；　Iiani　having
taken　his　mules　to　his　home；　and　probably　at　the　same　time　having
advertised　our　arrival；　throngs　of　women　and　children　approached　to
salaam　and　to　stare。　I　always　travelled　with　binocular　glasses　slung
across　my　back；　and　these　were　admirable　stare…repellers；　it　was　only
necessary　to　direct　them　upon　the　curious　crowd；　and　the　most　prominent
individuals　acknowledged　their　power　by　first　looking　shy　and　conscious；
and　then　confusedly　laughing　and　retreating　to　the　rear。

We　had　arrived　at　2。20　P。M。；　and　we　waited　beneath　the　olive…trees　until
8　P。M。；　when　the　advance　camels　at　length　came　in　after　dark。　It　was
9。30　before　the　tents　were　pitched　and　the　camp　arranged。　The　great
delay　had　been　occasioned　by　Iiani's　old　camel；　which　had；　as　I　had
expected；　rolled　down　the　steep　bill　with　its　load；　and　having　nearly
killed　itself；　had　mortally　wounded　the　sacred　copper　kettle；　which
every　traveller　knows　is　one　of　his　Penates；　or　household　gods；　to
which　he　clings　with　reverence　and　affection。　This　beautiful　object　had
lost　its　plump　and　well…rounded　figure；　and　had　been　crushed　into　a
museum…shaped　antiquity　that　would　have　puzzled　the　most　experienced
archaeologist。　Metal　water…jugs　upon　which　the　camel　had　rolled　had
been　reduced　to　the　shape　of　soup…plates；　and　a　general　destruction　of
indispensable　utensils　had　inflicted　a　loss　more　than　equal　to　the　value
of　Iiani's　animal。

The　following　morning　（12th　April）　exhibited　the　extraordinary　change　of
climate　between　the　northern　and　southern　sides　of　the　Carpas
mountain…range。　The　average　temperature　of　the　week　had　been　at　7　A。M。
57。5　degrees　F；　3　P。M。　66。5　degrees。　At　Morphu　the　thermometer　at　7　A。M。
showed　62　degrees；　and　at　3　P。M。　83　degrees！　It　was　precisely　the　same
on　the　following　day。

It　was　a　distressing　contrast　to　the　beautiful　Kyrenia　and　the
interesting　north　coast　to　have　exchanged　the　green　trees　and　rippling
streams　for　the　arid　and　desolate　aspect　of　the　Messaria。　The　town　of
Morphu　has　no　special　interest；　like　all　others；　it　consists　of　houses
constructed　of　sun…baked　bricks　of　clay　and　broken　straw；　with
flat…topped　roofs　of　the　same　materials。　There　are　fruitful　gardens
irrigated　by　water…wheels；　and　formerly　the　extremely　rich　sandy　loam　of
the　valley　produced　madder…roots　of　excellent　quality；　which　added
materially　to　the　value　of　the　land。　This　industry　having　been
completely　eclipsed　by　the　alizarine　dye；　Morphu　has　to　depend　upon　silk
and　cereals　for　its　agricultural　wealth。　The　population　is　composed
almost　entirely　of　Greeks。　There　is　a　monastery　and　a　large　school。

I　rode　to　the　bay；　about　four　miles　and　a　half　distant；　passing　many
villages；　which；　as　we　neared　the　sea；　were　in　the　midst　of　magnificent
crops　of　barley　and　wheat；　resulting　from　artificial　irrigation　by　the
water　that　percolates　beneath　the　sandy　bed　of　the　dry　river　at　a
certain　level；　which　has　been　led　into　numerous　channels　before　it　can
reach　the　natural　exit　at　its　mouth。　It　must　be　exceedingly　unhealthy；
as；　for　several　square　miles　upon　the　sea　margin；　the　country　is　an
expanse　of　marsh　and　bulrushes；　abounding　with　snipe　during　the　winter
months。　On　13th　April　I　walked　over　the　greater　portion　of　this　locality
with　my　three　spaniels；　but　the　snipe　had　departed；　and　we　did　not　move
a　bird。

On　the　right　side　of　Morphu　Bay　to　the　east；　by　Kormachiti；　there　are
extensive　sand…dunes；　forming　deep　drifts；　which　extend　for　several
miles　inland　at　the　foot　of　the　hill…range　that　we　had　descended。　These
exhibit　the　prevailing　wind　（north）。　Many　people　upon　observing
sand…dunes　attribute　the　most　distant　limit　of　the　sand　to　the　extreme
violence　of　the　wind；　but　this　is　not　the　case。　It　is　the　steady
prevalence　of　moderately　strong　winds　that　causes　the　extension　of
sand…drifts。　The　wind　of　to…day　deposits　the　sand　at　a　certain　distance
from　the　shore。　The　wind　to…morrow　starts　the　accumulated　sand　from　that
depot　to　form　a　new　deposit　about　equidistant；　and　thus　by　slow　degrees
the　dunes　are　formed　by　a　succession　of　mounds；　conveyed　onwards　by　an
unchanging　force；　but　the　maximum　power　of　a　gale　would　be　unable　to
carry　thousands　of　tons　of　heavy　sand　to　form　a　hill…range　at　the
extreme　distance　from　the　original　base　of　the　material。　At　Hambantotte；
in　the　southern　district　of　Ceylon；　there　is　an　extraordinary　example　of
this　action；　where　during　one　monsoon　a　range　of　mounds　is　formed　which
might　be　termed　hills；　when　the　monsoon　changes；　these　by　degrees
disappear；　and；　according　to　the　alteration　in　the　wind；　a　range　of
hills　is　formed　in　an　exactly　opposite　direction。

I　was　glad　to　escape　from　Morphu；　the　wind　from　the　dry　plain　was　hot；
and　brought　clouds　of　dust。　We　were　surrounded　by　throngs　of　people
during　the　day；　many　of　whom　were　blind；　including　young　children。　The
13th　April　was　the　Greek　Easter　Sunday；　and　we　could　not　start；　as　Iiani
declared　that　the　mules　had　run　away　during　the　night；　and　could　not　be
found；　we　knew　this　was　only　an　excuse　for　remaining　at　Morphu；　and　he
at　length　confessed　that　the　mules　were　caught；　and　we　could　start　in
the　afternoon　if　I　would　allow　him　to　wait　until　he　should　have　received
the　sacrament　together　with　his　wife。　Having　thus　brought　the
theological　and　the　domestic　guns　to　concentrate　their　fire　upon　me；　I
was　obliged　to　yield；　and　liani　appeared　in　such　a　jovial　frame　of　mind
in　the　afternoon；　and　smelt　so　strongly　of　spirits；　that　I　suspected　his
devotions　had　been　made　at　the　raki…shop　instead　of　the　altar。

On　14th　April　we　started；　and　were　thankful　to　leave　Morphu。　The　route
lay　across　the　plain　westward；　and　in　some　parts　we　rode　along　the　sea
margin；　eagerly　hurrying　our　animals　to　turn　the　corner　of　the　hills　and
escape　from　the　hot　and　dreary　plain。　The　breeze　was　northerly；　and　a
heavy　surf　broke　upon　the　coast；　exhibiting　the　exposed　position　of
Morphu　Bay　from　north　to　west。　On　the　eastern　side　the　beach　is　sandy
and　the　water　deepens　rapidly；　affording　good　and　safe　anchorage　near
the　shore；　but　should　the　wind　change　suddenly　to　west　or　north；　the
position　would　be　dangerous。　The　bay　is　the　most　striking　of　all　the
numerous　indentations　on　the　shores　of　Cyprus。　The　bold　points　of　Cape
Kormachiti　an