cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第39部分

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position　would　be　dangerous。　The　bay　is　the　most　striking　of　all　the
numerous　indentations　on　the　shores　of　Cyprus。　The　bold　points　of　Cape
Kormachiti　and　Cape　Kokkino　form　the　chord　of　an　arc　twenty…one　miles　in
length；　from　the　centre　of　which　the　bay　enters　the　land　about　eleven
miles。　It　would　be　impossible　to　land　from　boats　even　during　a　moderate
breeze　from　the　west　to　north　without　considerable　danger；　but　I　can　see
no　difficulty　in　arranging　a　floating　breakwater　that　would　afford
shelter　for　small　vessels　and　add　materially　to　the　importance　of　the
roadstead。　These　are　the　necessary　improvements　which　require　an　outlay；
and　unfortunately　under　the　existing　conditions　of　our　occupation　the
revenue　that　would　be　available　for　public　works　is　transferred　to　the
treasury　of　Constantinople；　thus　the　Turk　still　hampers　progress；　as　he
governs　Cyprus　in　the　uniform　of　the　British　official。　We　rounded　the
base　of　the　hills；　which　rose　rapidly　from　the　shore；　and　crossed
several　small　streams　thickly　fringed　with　tamarisk；　that　would　be
impassable　during　sudden　storms　of　the　rainy　season。　Several　villages
were　distinguished　by　their　bright　green　appearance　among　the　hills；
which　denoted　the　existence　of　springs　or　rivulets；　and　as　we　proceeded
we　observed　that　all　crops　in　the　low　ground　had　benefited　by　artificial
irrigation。

After　a　ride　of　two　hours　and　a　half　we　arrived　at　Caravastasi；　and
halted　in　a　very　stony　field　at　the　back　of　the　village；　beneath　an　old
caroub…tree　that　had　grown　thick　and　shady　by　the　merciless　hacking　of
its　taller　boughs；　which　had　reduced　it　to　a　pollard。　The　village　of
Caravastasi　consists　only　of　eight　or　ten　houses；　but　is　rendered
important　by　a　Custom…house。　It　is　situated　on　the　most　inland　point　of
Morphu　Bay；　and　is　slightly　sheltered　on　the　west　by　a　promontory；　which
forms　a　neat　little　cove　for　the　protection　of　small　vessels；　but　it　is
completely　open　due　north。　Nothing　would　be　easier　than　to　construct　a
small　harbour；　by　extending　a　pier　or　breakwater　from　the　end　of　the
promontory　in　the　required　direction；　and　the　present　unimportant
village　would　become　only　second　in　importance　to　Kyrenia。

The　positions　of　ancient　sea…port　ruins　attest　the　value　that　attached
to　certain　geographical　points　in　former　days；　and　although　the　vessels
of　those　periods　may　have　been　much　inferior　to　ships　of　modern　times；
they　were　sufficiently　large　for　the　commerce　of　the　country　and　for　the
capabilities　of　the　harbours。　The　trade　of　Cyprus　will　always　be　carried
by　vessels　from　twenty　to　one　hundred　and　fifty　tons；　and　there　should
be　no　difficulty　in　providing　shelter　for　ships　of　this　small　draught　of
water。　The　ruins　of　Soli；　on　the　west　of　the　present　village　of
Caravastasi；　prove　that　the　Athenians；　who　founded　the　original　city；
were　thoroughly　cognizant　of　the　value　of　a　position　which　is　the　only
spot　upon　the　whole　northern　coast　of　Cyprus　that　will　afford　shelter　or
a　landing…place；　excepting　the　harbour　of　Kyrenia。　In　the　early　period
of　Cyprian　history　Soli　represented　one　of　the　independent　kingdoms　when
the　island　was　divided　into　ten；　Amathus；　Cerinea　（Kyrenia）；　Citium；
Chytri；　Curium；　Lapithas；　Marium；　Nea…Paphos；　Salamis；　and　Soli。　The
Phoenicians；　from　their　own　southern　position；　naturally　selected　the
ports　most　convenient　for　their　trade；　and　accordingly　settled　on　the
south　coast　of　Cyprus；　their　chief　towns　being　Amathus；　Citium；　and
Paphos；　these　were　important　commercial　ports　at　a　time　when　Cyprus　was
in　its　zenith　of　prosperity；　and　were　sufficient　for　the　requirements　of
the　period。　If　the　British　occupation　is　intended　to　be　permanent　it
will　be　highly　necessary　to　determine　the　classes　of　harbours　that
should　be　provided；　as　it　would　be　a　useless　extravagance　to　expend
large　sums　upon　the　construction　of　ports　beyond　the　necessities　of　the
trade。　As　I　have　already　expressed　an　opinion　that　the　commerce　of
Cyprus　will　be　represented　by　vessels　of　moderate　tonnage；　the　necessary
protection　for　such　vessels　may　be　obtained　at　an　equally　moderate
outlay；　and　both　Soli　and　Kyrenia　may　be　made　available　as　safe　harbours
for　all　traders　upon　the　northern　coast。　Famagousta　would　become　the
arsenal　and　dockyard　for　ships　of　war；　Larnaca　and　Limasol　would　be　safe
roadsteads　for　all　classes；　and　could　easily　be　arranged　to　protect
small　trading…vessels；　while　Baffo　would；　like　Kyrenia　and　Soli；　be
restored　to　its　original　position。　All　rudimentary　harbour…works　would
be　planned　with　a　view　to　future　extension；　as　might　be　rendered
necessary　by　the　development　of　trade。

Colonel　White；　1st　Royal　Scots；　who　had　been　appointed　chief
commissioner　of　the　Lefkosia　district　from　his　former　similar　position
at　Larnaca；　arrived　at　Caravastasi　upon　the　same　day　as　ourselves。　This
very　painstaking　and　energetic　officer　was　exploring　his　district　and
investigating　all　the　nooks　and　corners　of　the　mountainous　frontier
which　bounded　his　authority；　he　was　accordingly　assailed　with　complaints
and　lamentations　concerning　the　endless　water　disputes　among　the
villages；　those　of　the　lower　ground　declaring　that　the　streams　to　which
they　were　entitled　by　the　rights　of　centuries　had　been　diverted　to　other
channels；　that　the　Turkish　authorities　had　been　bribed　by　the　opposing
litigants；　with　the　usual　long　list　of　grievances；　the　discussion　of
which　I　shall　defer　to　a　special　chapter　upon　〃Irrigation。〃



CHAPTER　VIII。

ROUTE　TO　BAFFO。

Our　tent　was　pitched　upon　rising　ground；　which　formed　the　direct　slope
from　the　sea；　a　quarter　of　a　mile　distant；　to　the　mountain…top　about
1500　or　2000　feet　above　us；　the　insignificant　village　of　Caravastasi　was
upon　the　sea…beach　in　our　immediate　front。

From　our　commanding　position　I　had　observed　a　peculiar　mound　with　a
cliff…face　half　a　mile　to　the　west；　which　exhibited　the　unusual　colour
of　a　bright　lemon　yellow　in　close　conjunction　with　red　of　various
shades。　Upon　crossing　numerous　fields　of　barley；　which　the　reapers　had
just　attacked　（14th　April）；　I　descended　a　ravine　at　the　foot　of　this
peculiar　formation；　which　I　carefully　examined。

Since　we　had　crossed　the　plain　of　Morphu　and　quitted　the　compact
limestone　of　the　Carpas　range　we　had　entered　upon　an　interesting
geological　change。　Eruptive　rocks　had　burst　through　the　marls　and
calcareous　sedimentary　limestone　of　the　coast　and　had　produced　very
curious　examples　of　metamorphous　rocks；　where　the　marls　and　limestone
had　been　in　immediate　contact　with　the　plutonic。　The　cliff　above　me　was
about　fifty　feet　high；　as　I　stood　at　its　base　within　a　shallow　gorge
that　formed　a　brook　during　the　rainy　season。

The　bottom　upon　which　I　stood　was　a　mass　of　debris　of　bright　colours；
varying　from　pure　white　to　different　shades　of　yellow　and　red。　This
material　appeared　to　have　fallen　recently；　as　the　blocks　did　not　exhibit
the　dull　exterior　that　would　have　resulted　from　atmospherical　exposure。
I　climbed　up　the　steep　face　of　crumbled　matter　with　some　difficulty；　as
the　sharply　inclined　surface　descended　with　me；　emitting　a　peculiar
metallic　clink　like　masses　of　broken　porcelain。　On　arrival　at　the　top　I
remarked　that　only　a　few　inches　of　vegetable　mould　covered　a　stratum　of
white　marl　about　a　foot　thick；　and　this　had　been　pierced　in　many　places
by　the　heat　that　had　fused　the　marl　and　converted　it　into　a　clinker　or
sharply…edged　white　slag；　mixed　with　an　ochreous　yellow　and　bright　red。
I　had　never　met　with　anything　like　this　singular　example　of　igneous
action　upon　marls。　In　the　neighbourhood　there　were　considerable　masses
of　the　same　clinker…like　material　exhibiting　a　honeycombed　appearance；
that　would　have　been　well　adapted　for　millstones。　The　natives　informed
me　that　all　the　millstones　of　the　northern　coast　were　imported　from
Athens。　I　had　heard　while　at　Kythrea　that　the　stones　for　the　very
numerous　mills　of　that　neighbourhood　were　supplied　from　Alexandretta；
and　that　none　of　native　origin　were　employed。　There　can　be　no　doubt　that
some　of　the　specimens　I　examined　of　this　material　combined　the
requirements　of　extreme　hardness；　porosity；　and　sharpness　of　interior
edges　around　the　honeycombed　cavities。　I　walked　over　the　mountain；　and
quickly　lost　the　marl　in　masses　of　plutonic　rocks　that　had　been　upheaved
and　entirely　occupied　the　surface。　Although　vast　blocks　lay　heaped　in
the　wildest　confusion；　they　exhibited　the　peculiar　characteristics　of
all　Cyprian　rocks　（excepting　the　calcareous　limestone）　in　their　utter
want　of　compactness。　I　have　never　seen　in　Cyprus　any　hard　rock　（except
jurassic　limestone）；　whether　gneiss；　syenite；　or　others；　that　would
yield　an　unblemished　stone　to　the　mason's　chisel　of　ten　feet　in　length
by　a　square　of　two　feet。　This　peculiarity　is　not　the　result　of　decay；
but　the　entire　mass　has　been　fractured　by　volcanic　disturbance　and　by
the　rapid　cooling　of　molten　matter　upheaved　from　beneath　the　sea。

Red　jasper　is　abundant　in　this　locality；　and　is　generally　found　in　small
pieces　embedded　in　the　marls。　I　discovered　a　very　compact　specimen
weighing　about　200　lbs。；　which　I　left　at　a　house　in　Caravastasi　until　I
might　have　an　opportunity　of　conveying　it　to　Larnaca。　Upon　crossing　the
mountain　I　arrived　at　a　charming　valley　among　the　hills　at　an　elevation
of　about　1200　feet　above　the　sea；　at　the　narrow　entrance　of　which；
between　the　sides　of　the　gorge；　was　a　Turkish　village。　I　was　quickly
observed；　and　being　quite　alone；　with　the　exception　of　my　dogs；　a
Turkish　woman；　to　whom　I　made　a　salaam；　ran　into　a　neighbouring　house
and　sent　her　husband　with　a　chair；　that　I　might　sit　beneath　an
almond…tree。　A　few　Turks　gathered　round　me　and　insisted　with　much
politeness　that　I　should　enter　the　house　of　the　owner　of　the　chair。　It
was　a　rough　dwelling；　but　I　was　kindly　welcomed；　and　cheese；　bread；　and
curds　were　quickly　arranged　before　me；　together　with　a　gourd…shell　of
clear　cold　water；　from　the　spring　which　issued　from　the　rocks　in　the
gorge　about　fifty　feet　below　the　house。　To　the　disappointment　of　my　host
I　was　obliged　to　decline　all　his　offerings；　except　a　draught　of　cold
water；　as　I　had　breakfasted　before　leaving　the　camp。　The　Turk　now　showed
me　his　gun；　which　he　explained　was　of　litt