cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第4部分

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town。　In　ancient　days　the　shallow　harbour　of　Cittium　existed　on　the　east
side　of　modern　Larnaca；　whether　from　a　silting　of　the　port；　or　from　the
gradual　alteration　in　the　level　of　the　Mediterranean；　the　old　harbour　no
longer　exists；　but　is　converted　into　a　miserable　swamp；　bordered　by　a
raised　beach　of　shingles　upon　the　seaboard。　The　earth　has　been　swept
down　by　the　rains；　and　the　sand　driven　in　by　the　sea；　while　man　stood
idly　by；　allowing　Nature　to　destroy　a　former　industry。　All　the　original
harbours　of　the　country　have　suffered　from　the　same　neglect。

There　was　little　to　be　seen　in　the　neighbourhood。　The　site　was　pointed
out　where　the　troops　were　encamped　in　the　tremendous　heat　of　July　in　the
close　vicinity　of　the　swampy　ground；　upon　pestiferous　soil；　and　the
usual　tales　of　commissariat　blunders　were　recounted。　Close　to　the
borders　of　this　unhealthy　spot；　but　about　twenty　feet　above　the　level　of
the　lowest　morass；　stands　the　convent　belonging　to　the　Sisters　of
Charity；　which　includes　a　school；　in　addition　to　a　hospital。　Great
kindness　was　shown　by　these　excellent　ladies　to　many　English　sufferers；
and　their　establishment　deserves　a　liberal　support　from　public
contributions。

I　walked　through　the　bazaar　of　Larnaca；　this　is　situated　at　the　west　end
of　the　town　near　the　fort；　close　to　which　there　is　a　public　fountain
supplied　by　the　aqueduct　to　which　I　have　already　alluded。　Brass　taps
were　arranged　around　the　covered　stone　reservoir；　but　I　remarked　a
distressing　waste　of　water；　as　a　continual　flow　escaped　from　an
uncontrolled　shoot　which　poured　in　a　large　volume　uselessly　into　the
street。　Within　a　few　yards　of　the　reservoir　was　a　solitary　old　banian
tree　（ficus　religiosa）；　around　which　a　crowd　of　donkeys　waited；　laden
with　panniers　containing　large　earthen　jars；　which　in　their　turn　were　to
be　filled　with　the　pure　water　of　the　Arpera　springs。

Although　the　crowd　was　large；　and　all　were　busied　in　filling　their　jars
and　loading　their　respective　animals；　there　was　no　jostling　or
quarrelling　for　precedence；　but　every　individual　was　a　pattern　of
patience　and　good　humour。　Mohammedans　and　Cypriotes　thronged　together　in
the　same　employment；　and　the　orderly　behaviour　in　the　absence　of　police
supervision　formed　a　strong　contrast　to　the　crowds　in　England。

The　Mosque　being　within　a　few　feet　of　them；　the　Mussulmans　could　perform
their　ablutions　at　the　threshold。　Around　the　font；　women　were
intermingled　with　a　crowd　of　men　and　boys。　The　girls　and　lads　were
regular　in　features　and　good…looking；　though　dirt　and　torn　clothing　of
various　gaudy　colours　gave　a　picturesque；　but　hardly　an　attractive；
appearance　to　the　group。　The　bazaar　was　entered　at　right　angles　with　the
quay；　the　streets　were　paved　with　stones　of　irregular　size；　sloping　from
both　sides　towards　the　centre；　which　formed　the　gutter。　Camels；　mules；
bullock…carts；　and　the　omnipresent　donkeys　thronged　the　narrow　streets；
either　laden　with　produce　for　the　quay；　or　returning　after　having
delivered　their　heavy　loads。　The　donkeys　were　very　large　and　were　mostly
dark　brown；　with　considerable　length　of　hair。　In　like　manner　with　the
camels；　they　were　carefully　protected　by　thick　and　well　stuffed　packs；
or　saddles；　and　were　accordingly　free　from　sores。　They　appeared　to　be
exceedingly　docile　and　intelligent；　and　did　not　require　the　incessant
belabouring　to　which　the　ass　of　other　countries　is　the　victim。　Large
droves　of　these　animals；　each　laden　with　three　heavy　squared　stones　for
building；　picked　their　way　through　the　narrow　streets；　and　seemed　to
know　exactly　the　space　required　for　their　panniers；　as　they　never
collided　with　either　carts　or　passengers。

The　shops　of　the　bazaar　were　all　open；　and　contained　the　supplies
usually　seen　in　Turkish　marketsvegetables；　meat；　and　a　predominance　of
native　sweets　and　confectionery；　in　addition　to　stores　of　groceries；　and
of　copper　and　brass　utensils。　An　absence　of　fish　proved　the　general
indolence　of　the　people；　there　is　abundance　in　the　sea；　but　there　are
few　fishermen。

An　hour's　stroll　was　quite　sufficient　for　one　to　form　an　opinion　of
Larnaca。　A　good　roadstead　and　safe　anchorage　offer　great　advantages；　but
until　some　protection　shall　be　afforded　that　will　enable　boats　to　land
in　all　weathers　Larnaca　can　never　be　accepted　as　a　port。　There　is　shoal
water　for　a　distance　of　about　two　hundred　yards　from　the　shore；　which
causes　a　violent　surf　even　in　a　moderate　breeze；　and　frequently　prevents
all　communication　with　the　shipping。　The　quay　was　in　many　places
undermined　by　the　action　of　the　waves；　and　it　would　be　necessary　to
create　an　entirely　new　front　by　sinking　a　foundation　for　a　sea…wall　some
yards　in　advance　of　the　present　face。　There　would　be　no　engineering
difficulty　in　the　formation　of　a　boat…harbour；　to　combine　by　extensive
pile…jetties　the　facility　of　landing　in　all　weathers。　A　very　cursory
view　of　Larnaca　exhibited　a　true　picture　of　its　miserable　financial
position。　The　numerous　stores　kept　by　Europeans　were　the　result　of　a
spasmodic　impulse。　There　was　no　wholesome　trade；　those　who　represented
the　commercial　element　were　for　the　most　part　unfortunates　who　had
rushed　to　Cyprus　at　the　first　intelligence　of　the　British　occupation；
strong　in　expectations　of　a　golden　harvest。　The　sudden　withdrawal　of　the
large　military　force　left　Larnaca　in　the　condition　of　streets　full　of
sellers；　but　denuded　of　buyers。　The　stores　were　supplied　with　the　usual
amount　of　liquors；　and　tins　of　preserved　provisions；　none　of　the
imported　articles　were　adapted　for　native　requirements；　an　utter
stagnation　of　trade　was　the　consequence；　and　prices　fell　below　the　cost
of　home　production。　The　preceding　year　had　been　exceptionally　sickly；
many　of　the　storekeepers　were　suffering　from　the　effects　of　fever；
which；　combined　with　the　depression　of　spirits　caused　by　ruined
prospects；　produced　a　condition　of　total　collapse；　from　which　there　was
only　one　reliefthat　of　writing　to　the　newspapers　and　abusing　the
Government　and　the　island　generally。

There　must　always　be　martyrssomebody　must　be　sacrificedwhether　burnt
at　the　stake　for　religious　principles；　or　put　in　a　bell…tent　in　the　sun
with　the　thermometer　at　110　degrees　Fahr。　simply　because　they　are
British　soldiersit　does　not　much　matterbut　the　moment　your　merchants
are　slain　upon　the　altar；　the　boiling…point　is　reached。

The　store…keepers　sat　despondingly　behind　their　counters　while　the
hinges　of　their　doors　rusted　from　the　absence　of　in…comers。　It　was
impossible　to　rouse　them　from　their　state　of　mercantile　coma；　except　by
one　word；　which　had　a　magnetic　effect　upon　their　nervous
system…〃Custom　House。〃

〃I　suppose　you　have　no　difficulty　at　the　Custom　House；　Mr。in　this
simple　island？〃　This　was　invariably　the　red　rag　to　the　bull。

〃No　difficulty；　Sir！no　difficulty？it　is　THE　difficultywe　are
absolutely　paralysed　by　the　Custom　House。　Every　box　is　broken　open　and
the　contents　strewed　upon　the　ground。　The　duty　is　ad　valorem　upon　all
articles；　and　an　ignorant　Turk　is　the　valuer。　This　man　does　not　know　the
difference　between　a　bootjack　and　a　lemon…squeezer：　only　the　other　day
he　valued　wire　dish…covers　as　‘articles　of　head…dress；'　（probably　he　had
seen　wire　fencing…masks）。　If　he　is　perplexed；　he　is　obliged　to　refer　the
questionable　article　to　the　Chief　Office；this　is　two　hundred　yards
from　the　landing　place：thus　he　passes　half　the　day　in　running
backwards　and　forwards　with　trifles　of　contested　value　to　his　superior；
while　crowds　are　kept　waiting；　and　the　store　is　piled　with　goods　most
urgently　required。〃　。　。　。

I　immediately　went　to　see　this　eccentric　representative　of　Anglo…Turkish
political…and…mercantile…combination；　and　found　very　little
exaggeration　in　the　description；　except　that　the　distance　was　187　paces
instead　of　200　which　he　had　to　perform；　whenever　the　character　of　the
article　was　beyond　the　sphere　of　his　experience。　As　this　happened　about
every　quarter　of　an　hour；　he　could　not　complain　of　a　sedentary
employment。　A　few　days　after　this；　migratory　birds　arrived　in　Cyprus
upon　the　inhospitable　shore　opposite　the　Custom　House　in　the　shape　of
two　Liberal　M。P's。　from　England；who　visited　the　island　specially　to
form　an　honest　opinion　free　from　all　political　bias。　Whether　these
gentlemen　were　undervalued　by　the　eccentric　official　to　whom　I　have
alluded；　or　whether　he　suspected　Liberals　as　opponents　to　be　regarded
and　treated　as　spies；　we　never　could　determine；　but　utterly　disregarding
their　innocent　exterior；　he　subjected　them　to　the　extreme　torture　of　the
Custom　House；　and　dived　and　plunged　into　the　very　bowels　and　bottoms　of
their　numerous　small　packages；　rumpling　clean　linen；　and　producing　a
toilettic　chaos。　To　the　honour　of　these　members　of　the　Opposition　they
never　brought　the　question　before　the　House　upon　their　return　to
England；　neither　did　they　make　it　the　foundation　of　an　attack　upon　the
Government。

An　excess　of　zeal　is　not　uncommon　among　ignorant　officials　newly　raised
to　a　position　of　authority：　thus　Larnaca　was　outdone　by　the　Custom　House
representative　at　Limasol　in　vigilance　and　strict　attention　to　the
administrative　tortures　of　his　office。　I　have　heard　of　cases　of　crockery
being　unpacked　upon　the　beach　and　spread　out　to　be　counted　and　valued
upon　the　loose　stones　of　shingle！

The　unfortunate　European　traders　of　Larnaca　were　shortly　relieved　of
their　Custom　House　troubles　by　the　total　absence　of　imports。　The　native
Cypriote　does　not　purchase　at　European　shops；　his　wants　are　few；　the
smallest　piece　of　soap　will　last　an　indefinite　period；　he　is　frugal　to
an　extreme　degree；　and　if　he　has　desires；　he　curbs　such　temptations　and
hoards　his　coin。　Thus；　as　the　natives　did　not　purchase；　and　all
Europeans　were　sellers　without　buyers；　there　was　no　alternative　but　to
shut　the　shutters。　This　was　a　species　of　commercial　suicide　which　made
Larnaca　a　place　of　departed　spirits；　in　which　unhappy　state　it　remains
to　the　present　hour。　Even　the　club　was　closed。



CHAPTER　II。

THE　GIPSY…VANS　ENCOUNTER　DIFFICULTIES。

My　gipsy…van　was　not　of　doubtful　character。　I　had　purchased　it　direct
from　the　gipsies　in　England；　and　it　had　been　specially　arranged　for　the
Cyprus　journey　by　Messrs。　Glover　Bros。　of