cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第40部分

快捷操作: 按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页 按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页 按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部! 如果本书没有阅读完，想下次继续接着阅读，可使用上方 "收藏到我的浏览器" 功能 和 "加入书签" 功能！


water；　as　I　had　breakfasted　before　leaving　the　camp。　The　Turk　now　showed
me　his　gun；　which　he　explained　was　of　little　use；　as　he　could　not　afford
a　game　licence；　but　he　offered　to　show　me　a　spot　where　hares　were
abundant。　The　shooting…season　was　long　since　closed；　therefore
partridges　and　francolins　were　sacred；　but　I　should　have　had　no　scruples
in　bagging　a　hare　for　a　stew。　My　guide　conducted　me　over　very　likely
ground　down　into　ravines　with　bush…covered　sides；　then　upon　the
hill…tops；　and　among　patches　of　cultivation　where　the　hares　had　played
sad　havoc　in　nibbling　the　wheat　and　barley；　but　we　found　none。　My　dogs
hunted　every　bush　in　vain；　and　the　burning　sun　had　dried　out　every
vestige　of　scent。　I　believe　the　hares　escape　the　sun　by　taking　refuge
beneath　the　rocks；　otherwise　we　must　have　moved　at　least　one　or　two。　My
guide　was　much　disappointed；　but　as　game　was　absent　he　hunted　for　wild
asparagus；　which　grew　in　considerable　quantities　beneath　the　thick
clumps　of　bushes　upon　the　hill…sides。　By　the　time　that　we　arrived　in
camp　he　had　collected　sufficient　for　a　good　dish。　This　variety　is　not
quite　so　thick　as　good　cultivated　asparagus；　but　it　is　superior　in
flavour；　although　slightly　bitter。

We　rode　to　Lefka；　about　three　miles　distant。　This　is　one　of　those　happy
lands　of　Cyprus　which　is　watered　with　unfailing　streams　from　the　Troodos
range；　that　have　enforced　prosperity。　The　town　is　important；　and　is
situated　upon　the　sides　of　the　hills；　which　form　a　valley；　through
which；　in　rainy　weather；　a　river　flows；　at　other　seasons；　like　all
Cyprian　torrents；　the　bed　is　dry。　The　houses　of　Lefka　are　almost
concealed　by　the　luxuriant　foliage　of　the　gardens　and　orangeries。　We
rode　through　narrow　lanes　streaming　with　water；　and　shaded　with　the　elm；
ash；　maple；　and　innumerable　fruit…trees。　Mills；　turned　by　water；　the
masonry　of　the　aqueducts　being　ornamented　with　the　graceful　maiden…hair
ferns；　enlivened　the　otherwise　dull　lanes　by　an　exhibition　of　industry。
The　orange…trees　and　lemons　were　literally　overweighted　with　fruit；
which　in　some　instances　overpowered　the　foliage　by　a　preponderance　of
yellow。　Lefka　supplies　the　whole　western　district　with　lemons；　in
addition　to　the　market　of　the　capital；　Lefkosia。　As　usual；　I　observed
that　the　fruit…trees　were　ridiculously　crowded；　thus　preventing　the
admission　of　the　necessary　air　and　light。　I　forbear　at　present　to
describe　the　fruit；　as　none　existed　at　this　season；　excepting　oranges
and　lemons；　and　I　wish　to　introduce　my　readers　to　every　scene　and　object
precisely　as　they　met　my　eye　in　travelling　through　the　country。　The
lemons　are　some　of　the　best　I　have　ever　tasted；　but　the　oranges　are　full
of　seeds；　with　thick　skins；　and　although　juicy　and　refreshing　in　this
hot　climate；　they　would　be　rejected　in　the　English　market。

A　very　cursory　view　of　Lefka　was　sufficient　to　explain　its　agricultural
importance；　and　to　（for　the　hundredth　time）　awaken　the　reflection　that
most　portions　of　the　island　might　equal　such　exceptional　prosperity；　if
special　attention　were　bestowed　upon　the　development　of　artificial
irrigation。

On　16th　April　we　left　Caravastasi；　and　rode　over　almost　the　worst　road；
but　one　of　the　most　picturesque　in　Cyprus。　It　was　a　succession　of　the
steepest　ups　and　downs　through　and　over　mountain　spurs；　to　cut　off　the
promontories　which　projected　into　the　sea　at　right　angles　with　our
route。　It　seemed　impossible　that　loaded　animals　should　be　able　to
traverse　such　steep　and　dangerous　defiles；　and　I　made　up　my　mind　that
Iiani's　ancient　camel　would　terminate　its　career；　together　with　that　of
our　possessions　upon　its　back；　by　rolling　several　hundred　feet　into　the
dark　angle　of　some　precipitous　ravine。　Even　Iiani　kept　awake；　and
presently　I　heard　a　faint　exclamation　from　behind；　and　upon　turning
round　I　discovered　Lady　Baker　upon　the　ground；　the　saddle　having　twisted
beneath　her　mule　in　descending　a　steep　and　rocky　gulley；　fortunately　she
fell　upon　the　wall…side　of　the　path；　instead　of　upon　the　edge　of　the
precipice；　and　she　was　unhurt。

Although　the　route　was　abominable　it　was　most　interesting。　As　the
drainage　of　the　mountains　was　at　right　angles；　we　crossed　a　succession
of　heights　which　afforded　short　glimpses　of　the　sea　some　600　feet
beneath；　with　the　perpendicular　rock…bound　coast　below　us；　and　then
alternately　descended　into　the　depths　of　the　intervening　gullies。　This
peculiarity　exhibited　to　perfection　the　geological　formation。　We　had
entered　upon　trap　rocks　and　the　greenstone；　all　of　which　showed　traces
of　copper。　Notwithstanding　the　wild　and　dangerous　route；　every　available
plot　of　ground　was　cultivated；　although　no　villages　were　perceptible。
The　peasants　carried　their　light　ploughs　upon　donkeys　from　considerable
distances；　and　with　these　exceedingly　useful　implements　they　ploughed
inclines　that　would　have　been　impossible　to　cultivate　with　any　European
implement　except　the　hoe。　At　length　we　descended　to　the　sea…beach；　and
marching　through　heavy　sand　for　about　a　mile；　we　arrived　at　Pyrgos；　our
halting…place；　twelve　miles　from　Caravastasi。

This　is　one　of　the　wildest　portions　of　Cyprus。　There　is　no　village；　but
the　position　is　simply　marked　by　the　presence　of　one　building　above　the
sea…beach；　which　has　been　a　depot　for　the　spars　and　poles　of　pine　that
have　periodically　been　delivered　from　the　mountains　by　the　torrents；
when　heavy　rains　have　swollen　them　sufficiently　to　enable　them　to　force
the　timber　towards　the　sea。　As　the　mountains　upon　this　portion　of　the
coast　descend　in　many　places　actually　to　the　shore；　while　in　no　places
are　they　more　than　half　a　mile　distant；　the　rivulets　are　numerous；　as
there　is　no　time；　or　area；　sufficient　for　their　absorption　by　the　soil。
Within　a　hundred　and　fifty　paces　of　the　timber　store　beautiful　streams
of　clear　water　issued　from　the　ground　in　three　different　places；　which
converged　into　a　brook　abounding　with　water…cresses；　and　this；　after
passing　through　a　small　and　thick　jungle　of　tamarisk…bushes；　formed　a
pool　above　the　sea…beach　which　overflowed　upon　the　shingle；　and　met　the
waves。　We　ascended　the　stream　for　a　short　distance；　until；　tempted　by
two　or　three　large　plane…trees；　we　halted　for　luncheon　beneath　their
shade。　The　river；　which　occasionally　flooded　sufficiently　to　bring　down
heavy　timber　when　felled　among　the　mountains；　flowed　through　an
extremely　rich　but　narrow　valley；　which　extended　into　a　glen　between
their　precipitous　slopes　until　it　became　a　mere　ravine。　The　mass　of
mountains　in　this　district；　which　form　a　succession　of　wild　and
impassable　steeps；　is　marked　upon　Kiepert's　map　as　〃unexplored。〃　They
were　originally　pine…forests；　but　the　destruction　of　timber　has　been
carried　to　such　an　excess　that　comparatively　few　trees　remain。　With　my
glass　I　could　distinguish　large　trunks　that　lay　rotting　upon　the　ground；
where　they　had　pitched　among　the　stems；　and　roots　of　trees　that　had　been
already　felled；　these　had　been　rolled　from　the　steep　heights　above；　but
having　been　caught　in　their　descent　to　the　torrent　below　by　the　opposing
stumps；　they　had　been　abandoned；　and　other　trees　had　been　felled　in
their　stead；　where　the　inclination　was　more　favourable　for　their
transport。

This　portion　of　the　coast　should　be　thoroughly　explored　by　practical
miners；　as　it　is　rich　in　minerals。　I　procured　some　fine　specimens　of
pyrites　of　copper；　which　the　natives　mistook　for　silver；　and　should　a
mineralogical　investigation　be　made　by　the　authorities；　I　feel　sure　that
the　metallic　wealth　of　Cyprus　will　be　discovered　between　Caravastasi　and
Poli…ton…Krysokhus。

It　was　late　before　our　baggage　animals　appeared；　and　when　they　at　length
arrived；　Iiani's　venerable　camel　was　missing。　It　appeared　that　this
worn…out　old　creature　had　been　performing　acrobatic　feats　in　tumbling
throughout　the　difficult　journey；　and　had　rolled；　together　with　its
load；　down　several　places　that　had　threatened　its　destruction。　It　had
delayed　the　march　several　hours；　as　it　had　been　many　times　released　from
difficulties　by　unloading；　reloading；　and　dividing　the　heavier　portions
of　baggage　among　the　other　camels　which　received　a　smaller　pay。　At
length；　upon　arriving　upon　the　deep　sand　of　the　beach；　about　a　mile
distant；　it　had　fallen　down；　and　given　up　everything　except　the　ghost。

It　was　a　natural　annoyance　to　the　owners　of　the　other　camels　that　Iiani
should　be　paid　highly　for　a　useless　animal；　while　they　had　to　carry　its
load　divided　among　them　assisted　by　a　division　of　the　smaller　weights
among　the　servants'　riding　mules。　The　evening　was　passed　in　grumbling：
everybody　was　in　a　bad　humour。　It　was　declared　impossible　to　pitch　the
tent　upon　the　sandy　beach　by　the　pool　of　fresh　water；　as　there　was　no
holding…ground　for　the　tent…pegs。　I　quickly　instructed　them　in　making
faggots　of　tamarisk…boughs　which；　tied　to　the　ropes　and　buried　in　the
sand；　were　much　more　secure　than　pegs　in　the　hardest　soil；　and　the　tent
was　at　length　arranged。　A　small　species　of　curlew　tempted　its　fate　by
visiting　the　fresh…water　margin　just　before　our　dinner…hour；　I　bagged
it；　and　as　the　cook　was　in　a　bad　humour；　I　made　a　fire　of　driftwood；
with　which　the　beach　was　strewed；　and　when　the　glowing　embers　had
succeeded　to　the　flame　and　formed　a　red…hot　heap；　I　cut　two　forked
sticks；　which；　placed　on　either　side　upright　in　the　sand；　supported　my
bird　upon　a　long　skewer　of　green　tamarisk…wood。　A　little　salt；　pepper；
and　a　smear　of　butter　occasionally；　produced　a　result　that　would　have
beaten　Christo's　best　attempts。

On　the　following　morning　we　were　all　once　more　in　good　humour；　the　old
camel　had　not　died；　but　had　been　brought　into　camp　late　at　night。　It　now
formed　the　object　for　everybody's　joke；　and　its　owner　liani　was
recommended　to　〃try　and　sell　it；〃　or　〃to　make　it　a　present　to　a　friend；〃
or　〃to　ride　it　himself；〃　the　latter　course　would　have　been　a　deserved
punishment。　Iiani　escaped　further　remarks　by　jumping　upon　his　mule　and
riding　ahead；　and　we　followed　our　guide　without　delay　along　the　deep
sandy　beach。

We　rode　for　fourteen　miles　along　cliffs　bordering　the　sea；　with　the　deep
hollows　occasioned　by　the　natural　drainage　causing　a　continual　series　of
ups　and　downs；　which　reminded　me　forcibly　of　the