cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第45部分

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partridges；　which　of　course　at　this　season　I　respected。

The　march　on　the　following　day　was　a　continuation　of　the　same　beautiful
country；　until　we　at　length　reached　the　table…top　of　a　stupendous　cliff
perpendicular　to　the　sea；　which　washed　its　base。　The　path　was　in　many
places　only　a　few　feet　from　the　edge；　and　afforded　a　magnificent　view。
The　table…land　upon　which　we　rode　was　covered　with　evergreen　shrubs　and
young　pines；　and　the　same　rich　landscape　that　we　had　admired　on　the
previous　day　extended　towards　the　mountains　of　the　interior。　The　road
had　been　as　rough　as　could　be　imagined；　and　we　now　descended　the　last
steep　incline　from　the　heights；　which　led　into　the　plain　below。　The　salt
lake；　which　adds　an　important　amount　to　the　revenue　of　Cyprus；　lay
beneath　us　upon　the　right；　in　the　heart　of　the　peninsula　of　Akrotiri；
immediately　below　were　the　ruins　of　ancient　Curium；　but　to　us　
invisible。　。　。　。

We　arrived　at　the　town　of　Episkopi。　Captain　Savile　thus　describes　it：

　　　　〃A　pleasantly　situated　village；　standing　on　the
　　　　Episkopi　or　Lycos　river；　and　very　abundantly　supplied　
　　　　with　water。　The　houses　are　surrounded　with
　　　　fruitful　gardens；　and　there　are　fields　of　grain　and
　　　　cotton　in　the　vicinity。　The　inhabitants　have　however　
　　　　very　small　holdings；　and　are；　as　a　rule；　miserably
　　　　poor。　In　former　days　Episkopi　was　a　rich　city；　and
　　　　contained　in　the　Venetian　times　large　manufactories；
　　　　of　its　ancient　greatness　now　remain　the　ruins　of　an
　　　　aqueduct；　immense　storehouses　or　vaults；　and　several
　　　　ruined　Greek　churches。　The　spurs　from　Mount
　　　　Troodos　extend　nearly　down　to　the　shore；　and　the
　　　　road　follows　the　coast…line；　traversing　a　very　beautiful
　　　　country；　the　ground　in　spring　is　covered　with　flowers
　　　　and　aromatic　herbs；　and　the　ravines　are　filled　with　a
　　　　luxuriant　growth　of　cypresses；　wild…olives；　and　flowering
　　　　shrubs。〃

There　was　nothing　to　induce　a　delay　in　Episkopi；　but　an　addition　may　be
made　to　the　above　description　in　stating　that　the　river　which　has
fertilised　the　spot　and　made　it　famous　originates　in　the　Troodos　range。
Later　on；　during　the　summer　months；　I　often　rested　at　the　faintly
dripping　source　of　its　first　mountain　affluent　near　the　top　of　Troodos；
which　by　degrees　acquires　strength　from　the　Olympus　drainage　to　form　an
important　stream。

We　passed　quickly　through　Episkopi　with　its　fruitful　gardens；　narrow
streets；　and　yelling　curs。　Poor　Wise　was　now　alone；　and　we　could　no
longer　exhibit　a　combined　front　of　three　British　lions　to　the　snapping
curs　of　Cyprus；　therefore　the　dog　Wise…ly　kept　close　to　the　heels　of　our
guide's　pony　and　just　before　me；　which；　without　the　ignominy　of　retreat；
secured　his　position　from　all　assailants。　We　passed　below　the　ancient
aqueduct；　which　conveyed　a　powerful　volume　of　water　to　the　turbine…wheel
upon　our　right；　and　at　length　emerging　from　the　town；　we　entered　once
more　upon　the　plain；　and　steering　for　a　large　square　tower　which　we　had
remarked　when　at　the　summit　of　the　heights；　we　shortly　arrived　at　the
thriving　village　of　Kolossi；　about　a　mile　and　three…quarters　distant。

This　large　village　was　a　waving　sea　of　barley；　some　of　the　finest　that　I
had　seen；　and　due　to　artificial　irrigation。　An　ancient　aqueduct　of
masonry　turned　a　mill　close　to　the　large　square　tower　that　we　had
previously　observed。　We　halted　for　luncheon　beneath　an　olive…tree　a　few
yards　distant　from　the　aqueduct；　in　a　garden　of　fruit…trees　which　were
in　the　brightness　of　a　spring　foliage。

The　square　tower　of　masonry　must　have　formed　a　portion　of　defensive
works　that　have　disappeared；　as　there　is　no　flanking　protection；　but　the
tower　rises　above　the　plain　to　a　height　of　about　sixty　feet　like　a　huge
block　of　stone。　It　is　said　to　have　been　erected　by　the　Knights　Templars；
and　is　of　great　solidity；　but　such　experienced　soldiers　would　hardly
have　constructed　so　important　a　work　without　due　regard　to　the　first
rules　of　fortification。

After　luncheon；　the　camels　having　arrived；　I　would　not　allow　them　to
unload；　but　directed　them　straight　to　Limasol。　Of　course　their　owners
declared　the　distance　to　be　a　long　day's　march；　but　as　the　map　showed　it
to　be　six　miles；　I　insisted。

From　Kolossi　the　country　was　perfectly　open　and　cultivated；　the
peasantry　were　engaged　in　reaping　barley；　which　was　carried　away　upon
donkeys'　backs　instead　of　being　conveyed　by　carts。　The　usual
caroub…trees；　although　plentiful　upon　the　rising　ground　in　the　distance；
were　few　and　far　between；　and　from　this　to　Limasol；　which　was　now　in
view；　the　beauty　of　the　landscape　had　departed　。　。　。　。　。　I　dislike　the
approach　to　a　large　town　in　a　semi…wild　country；　the　charming　simplicity
and　independence　of　travelling　is　destroyed；　and　the　servants　become
more　or　less　demoralised　by　a　love　of　new　associations　which　produces　a
neglect　of　duty。　Iiani　was　with　us　in　addition　to　our　guide　the
zaphtieh；　therefore；　as　an　utter　stranger　to　the　locality；　I　ordered
them　to　lead　us　to　a　convenient　camping…ground。　As　we　approached　the
town　there　were　the　usual　minarets　and　date…palms；　and　several　vessels；
including　steamers；　were　lying　in　the　roadstead。　We　halted　near　the
entrance　in　a　forsaken　garden；　where　the　walls　were　broken　down　and　the
unwatered　orange…trees；　although　in　faint　blossom；　were　parched　and
faded。　Two　very　large　apricot…trees　promised　a　shade　for　the　tent；　but
the　sakyeeah；　or　water…wheel；　together　with　two　powerful　English
lifting…pumps　that　were　connected　with　a　large　reservoir　and　aqueduct　of
masonry；　were　in　the　last　stage　of　rust　and　rottenness。　I　was　not
prepossessed　with　the　aspect　of　the　spot；　as　it　reminded　me　strongly　of
an　English　property　in　charge　of　the　Court　of　Chancery。　The　baggage
animals　with　the　tents　arrived　while　our　people　were　employed　in
clearing　a　space　beneath　the　trees　from　the　innumerable　stones；　which；
as　usual　throughout　Cyprus；　covered　the　surface。　The　servants　were
busily　engaged　in　erecting　the　tent；　when　a　long；　lanky　individual；　with
a　repulsive　countenance；　marched　through　the　little　crowd　and　haughtily
inquired　〃who　we　were；　and　what　business　we　had　there？〃

This　was　the　first　instance　of　incivility　that　I　had　met　with　in　our
journey　through　the　island。　The　man　was　a　Turk；　and　was　not　the
proprietor；　but　only　the　agent　for　this　wretchedly…neglected　property。
The　unfortunate　owner　was　sleeping　with　his　fathers；　or　he　would；　I　feel
sure；　have　welcomed　us　with　true　Turkish　politeness　and　hospitality　but
having　departed　this　life；　some　legal　difficulties　had　occasioned
trouble；　and　the　estate　was　in　the　hands　of　the　uncivil　agent；　who；　of
course；　being　nobody；　assumed　the　airs　of　somebody；　and　endeavoured　by
rudeness　to　exhibit　his　importance。　We　were　travel…stained　and　dusty　as
millers；　therefore　our　personal　appearance　had　not　impressed　him
favourably；　he　was　in　a　thread…bare　long　black　cloth　habit　that
combined　the　cloak；　dressing…gown；　and　frock…coat　in　a　manner
inexplicable；　and　known　only　to　Turks。　This　garment　was　trimmed　in　the
front　edges　with　rather　mangy…looking　fox…skin：　loose　pegtop　trousers　of
greasy…looking　cloth；　dirty　and　threadbare；　completed　the　costume　of　the
great　curiosity　of　Cyprus；　〃a　rude　person。〃

I　was　not　at　the　time　aware　that　he　understood　Arabic；　and　happily　I
addressed　Amarn　in　that　language；　expressing　my　surprise　that　in　this
country；　where　we　had　travelled　so　widely　and　found　civility　upon　all
sides；　we　should　be　subjected　to　such　rudeness。　My　servants；　who　were
more　annoyed　than　myself；　spoke　rather　loudly；　and　assured　him　that　if
he　was　a　Turk；　their　master　was　a　pasha　of　his　Sultan；　and　we　would　at
once　quit　his　miserable　neglected　ground　and　mention　his　inhospitality
to　the　chief　commissioner。　By　this　time　the　rear　baggage　animals　had
appeared；　and　the　imposing　array　of　luggage　and　people　seemed　to　impress
him　with　the　fact　that　we　were　neither　gipsies　nor　vagabonds。　I
explained　to　him　that　we　should　not　have　presumed　to　intrude　within　a
walled　garden；　but　as　the　old　walls　had　disappeared　and　the　place　was　in
an　open　and　ruinous　condition；　we　had　trespassed　innocently。　He
disappeared　with　an　apology；　but　upon　the　first　opportunity　after　we　had
examined　the　neighbourhood　of　Limasol　we　changed　our　camp　to　a　good
position　on　the　eastern　outskirts　of　the　town。　This　side　was　rich　in
caroub…trees；　and　had　grass　existed　it　would　have　formed　a　park：　the
ground　sloped　from　the　mountains；　about　six　miles　distant；　gradually　to
the　sea；　the　surface　was　richly　wooded　by　caroubs　throughout；　and　the
soil　was　cultivated　with　barley；　which　was　already　in　the　hands　of
reapers。　There　were　six　caroub…trees　in　a　line　which　connected　their
shade；　and　we　soon　cleared　the　cultivated；　but　withered；　surface　of　the
large　clods　of　earth；　which；　having　been　turned　up　by　the　plough；　had
baked　beneath　the　sun　into　the　hardness　of　bricks；　these　were　arranged
in　a　square　to　mark　the　limits　of　the　camp；　while　the　interior　area　was
pounded　to　produce　an　even　floor；　from　this　position　we　looked　upon　the
sea；　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　distant；　and　upon　the　town　of　Limasol
upon　our　right。

No　town　in　Cyprus　exhibited　the　results　of　a　British　occupation　to　the
same　extent　as　Limasol。　The　chief　commissioner；　Colonel　Warren；　R。A。；
was　an　officer　of　great　energy　and　ability；　and　he　had　grappled
vigorously　with　every　difficulty　and　cleansed　the　Augean　stables
thoroughly。　The　town　is　about　a　mile　and　a　half　in　length；　and　faces　the
sea　in　a　position　somewhat　similar　to　that　of　Larnaca。　The　quay　is
washed　by　the　waves；　which　in　stormy　weather　dash　against　the　houses；　at
which　times　it　is　impossible　to　land　from　boats；　and　crews　must　remain
on　board　their　vessels　safely　anchored　in　the　roadstead。　Although　not　so
extensive　as　Larnaca；　Limasol　is　more　compact；　and　the　houses　and
gardens　are　superior。　Owing　to　the　active　authority　of　the　chief
commissioner；　the　streets　were　scrupulously　clean；　and　all　the　refuse　of
the　town　was　conveyed　to　a　safe　distance。　A　public　market　had　been
recently　arranged；　covered　with　corrugated　galvanised　iron；　in　which　the
departments　for　meat；　vegetables；　&c。；　were　kept　separate；　and　the
appearance　and　organisation　resemble