cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第5部分

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from　the　gipsies　in　England；　and　it　had　been　specially　arranged　for　the
Cyprus　journey　by　Messrs。　Glover　Bros。　of　Dean　Street；　Soho；　London。　It
had　been　painted　and　varnished　with　many　coats　both　inside　and　out；　and
nobody；　unless　an　experienced　gipsy；　would　have　known　that　it　was　not
newly　born　from　the　maker's　yard。　Originally　it　had　been　constructed　for
shafts；　as　one　horse　was　considered　sufficient　upon　the　roads　of
England；　but　when　it　arrived　in　Cyprus　it　appeared　to　have　grown　during
the　voyage　about　two　sizes　larger　than　when　it　was　last　seen。　As　the
small　animals　of　Larnaca　passed　by；　where　my　lovely　van　blocked　up　the
entire　street；　and　forced　the　little　creatures　upon　the　footpath；　they
looked　in　comparison　as　though　they　had　just　been　disembarked　upon　Mount
Ararat　from　the　original　Noah's　ark；　represented　by　the　gipsy…van！　The
Cypriotes　are　polite；　therefore　I　heard　no　rude　remarks。　The　Cypriote
boys　are　like　all　other　boys；　therefore　they　climbed　to　the　top　of　the
van；　and　endeavoured　by　escalade　to　enter　the　windows。　On　one　occasion　I
captured　HALF　A　BOY　（the　posterior　half）　who　was　hanging　with　legs
dangling　out　of　the　window；　his　〃forlorn…hope〃　or　advance　half　vainly
endeavouring　to　obtain　a　resting…place　upon　vacuity　within　（as　the　fall
slab…table　was　down）。　I　had　no　stick；　but　the　toes　of　his　boots　had
imprinted　first　impressions　upon　the　faultless　varnish。　What　became　of
that　young　Cypriote　was　never　known。

Even　in　Cyprus　there　are　municipal　laws；　and　now　that　the　English　are
there　they　are　enforced；　therefore　my　huge　van　could　not　remain　like　a
wad　in　a　gun…barrel；　and　entirely　block　the　street。　A　London　policeman
would　have　desired　it　to　〃move　on〃　butthis　was　the　real　grievance
that　I　had　against　Larnacathe　van　COULD　NOT　〃MOVE　ON；〃　owing　to　its
extreme　height；　which　interfered　with　the　wooden　water…spouts　from　the
low　roofs　of　the　flat…topped　houses。　This　was　a　case　of　〃real　distress。〃
My　van　represented　civilisation：　the　water…spouts　represented　barbarism。
If　a　London　omnibus　crowded　with　outside　passengers　had　attempted　to
drive　through　Larnaca；　both　driver　and　passengers　would　have　been　swept
into　I　have　not　the　slightest　notion　where；　and　my　van　was　two　feet
higher　than　an　omnibus！

I　determined　that　I　would　avoid　all　inferior　thoroughfares；　and　that　the
van　should　pass　down　Wolseley　Street；　drawn　by　a　number　of　men　who　would
be　superior　in　intelligence　to　the　Cypriote　mules　and　be　careful　in
turning　the　corners。

I　did　not　see　the　start；　as　a　person　with　an　〃excess　of　zeal〃　had
started　it　with　a　crowd　of　madmen　without　orders；　and　I　was　only　a　late
spectator　some　hours　after　its　arrival　opposite　Craddock's　Hotel。　It
rather　resembled　a　ship　that　had　been　in　bad　weather　and　in　collision
with　a　few　steamers。　How　many　water…spouts　it　had　carried　away　I　never
heard。　The　fore…axle　was　broken；　as　it　appeared　that　in　rounding　a
corner　it　had　been　dragged　by　main　force　upon　the　curbstone　about
sixteen　inches　high；　from　which　it　had　bumped　violently　down。　It　had
then　been　backed　against　a　water…spout；　which　had　gone　completely
through　what　sailors　would　term　the　〃stern。〃　One　shutter　was　split　in
two　pieces；　and　one　window　smashed。　Altogether；　what　with　bruises；
scratches；　broken　axle；　and　other　damages；　my　van　looked　ten　years　older
since　the　morning。

Fortunately　among　the　Europeans　who　had　flocked　to　Cyprus　since　the
British　occupation　was　a　French　blacksmith；　whose　forge　was　only　a　few
yards　from　Craddock's　Hotel；　where　my　wrecked　vessel　blocked　the　way。　I
had　a　new　fore　axle…tree　made；　and　strengthened　the　hinder　axle。　I　also
fitted　a　bullock…pole；　instead　of　shafts；　for　a　pair　of　oxen；　the
springs　I　bound　up　with　iron　wire　shrunk　on　while　red…hot。　I　took　out
the　stove；　as　it　was　not　necessary；　and　its　absence　increased　the　space；
and　I　inserted　a　ventilator　in　the　roof　in　place　of　the　chimney。　When
repaired；　the　van　looked　as　good　as　new；　and　was　much　stronger；　and　well
adapted　for　rough　travel。　The　only　thing　it　now　wanted　was　a　ROAD！

The　highways　of　Cyprus　were　mere　mule…tracks。　The　only　legitimate　road
in　existence　was　of　most　recent　construction；　which　represented　the　new
birth　of　British　enterprise；　from　Larnaca　to　the　capital；　Nicosia　（or
Lefkosia）；　about　twenty…eight　miles。　The　regrettable　paucity　of
stone…hammers　rendered　it　impossible　to　prepare　the　metal；　therefore
huge　rounded　blocks；　bigger　than　a　man's　head；　had　been　thrown　down　for
a　foundation；　upon　which　some　roughly　broken　and　a　quantity　of　unbroken
smaller　stones　had　been　spread。

Of　course　there　was　only　one　method　of　travelling　upon　this　route　with
the　gipsy…van：　this　was　to　avoid　it　altogether；　but　to　keep　upon　the
natural　soil　on　the　side　of　the　newly…made　level。

My　second　van　was　most　satisfactory；　and　was　light　in　proportion　to　its
strength　and　capacity。　This　was　arranged　specially　for　luggage；　and　was
entirely　closed　by　doors　at　either　end；　which　were　secured　by　bolts　and
locks。　Above　the　luggage；　and　about　two　feet　six　inches　below　the　roof；
a　sliding　deck　formed　of　movable　planks　afforded　a　comfortable
sleeping…berth　for　a　servant。　In　the　front　a　projecting　roof　sheltered
the　driving　seat；　which　was　wide　enough　to　accommodate　four　persons。　I
had　fitted　a　pole　instead　of　shafts；　as　public　opinion　decided　against
mules；　and　it　was　agreed　that　oxen　were　steadier　and　more　powerful　for
draught　purposes。　After　a　careful　selection；　I　obtained　two　pairs　of
very　beautiful　animals；　quite　equal　in　size　to　ordinary　English　oxen；
for　which　I　paid　twelve　shillings　per　diem；　including　the　drivers　and
all　expenses　of　fodder。　I　also　engaged　the　necessary　riding　mules；　as
the　vans　were　not　intended　for　personal　travelling；　but　merely　for
luggage　and　for　a　home　at　night。　Our　servants　consisted　of　Amarn　（my
Abyssinian；　who　had　been　with　me　eight　years；　since　he　was　a　a　boy　of
nine　years　old　in　Africa）；　a　Greek　cook　named　Christo；　who　had　served　in
a　similar　capacity　upon　numerous　steamers；　and　a　young　man　named　Georgi；
of　about　twenty…one；　who　was　to　be　made　into　a　servant。　This　young
fellow　had　appeared　one　day　suddenly；　and　solicited　employment；　while　we
were　staying　at　Craddock's　Hotel；　he　was　short；　thickset；　and　possessed
a　head　of　hair　that　would　have　raised　the　envy　of　Absalom：　in　dense
tangle　it　would　have　defied　a　mane…comb。　Georgi　had　a　pleasant
expression　of　countenance　which　did　not　harmonise　with　his　exterior；　as
his　clothes　were　in　a　ragged　and　filthy　condition；　his　shoes　were　in
tatters；　and　trodden　down　at　the　heel　to　a　degree　that　resembled　boats
in　the　act　of　capsizing；　these　exposed　the　remnants　of　socks；　through
the　gaps　of　which　the　skin　of　his　feet　was　exhibited　in　anything　but
flesh…colour。　It　is　dangerous　to　pick　up　a　〃waif　and　stray；〃　as　such
objects　of　philanthropy　frequently　disappear　at　the　same　time　as　the
forks　and　spoons。　In　reply　to　my　questions；　I　discovered　that　Georgi　was
in　fact　the　〃prodigal　son；〃　he　had　not　been　leading　the　fast　life　of
that　historical　character；　but　he　had　left　his　home　in　Mersine　（on　the
coast　of　Asia　Minor）　owing　to　an　unfortunate　disagreement　with　his
father。　In　such　domestic　estrangements；　rightly　or　wrongly；　the　fathers
generally　have　the　best　of　the　situation；　and　Georgi；　having　left　a
comfortable　home　（his　father　being　what　is　called　〃well　to　do〃）；　had
taken　ship；　and；　like　many　others；　had　steered　for　Cyprus；　where　he
arrived　unknown；　and　quickly　experienced　the　desolation　of　an　utter
stranger　in　a　foreign　town。　Georgi　became　hungry；　whether　he　had　sold
his　good　clothes　to　provide　for　the　coats　of　his　stomach　I　cannot　say；
but　the　rags　in　which　he　first　appeared　to　me　were　utterly　unsaleable；
and　few　people　would　have　ventured　upon　an　engagement　with　so
disreputable　a　person。　However；　I　liked　his　face；　he　could　speak　Turkish
and　Arabic　fluently：　Greek　was　his　mother…tongue；　and　he　had　a
smattering　of　French。　I　sent　for　the　tailor；　and　had　him　measured　for　a
suit　of　clothes　to　match　those　of　Amarna　tunic；　waistcoat；
knickerbockers；　and　gaiters　of　navy…blue　serge。　In　a　few　days　Georgi　was
transformed　into　a　respectable…looking　servant；　with　his　hair　cut。

We　left　Larnaca　on　the　29th　of　January。　A　native　two…wheeled　cart
conveyed　the　tents　and　superabundant　baggage。　The　oxen　made　no
difficulty；　and　the　gipsy…van　rolled　easily　along。　An　enterprising
photographer；　having　posted　himself　in　a　certain　position　near　the
highway；　suddenly　stopped　our　party；　and　subsequently　produced　a
facsimile；　although　my　dogs；　who　were　in　movement；　came　out　with
phantom…like　shadows。　These　useful　companions　were　three　spaniels
〃Merry；〃　〃Wise；〃　and　〃Shot；〃　the　latter　had　a　broken　foreleg　through
an　accident　in　the　previous　year；　but　he　was　an　excellent　retriever；　and
could　work　slowly。　The　others　were　younger　dogs；　whose　characters　were
well　represented　by　their　names；　the　first　was　an　untiring；　determined
animal；　and　Wise　was　a　steady　hunter　that　would　face　the　worst　thorns；
and　was　a　good　retriever。

This　party　was　now　in　movement；　and　I　intended　to　make　a　preliminary
detour　from　the　Nicosia　route　to　visit　the　springs　of　Arpera；　about
eight　miles　distant；　which　supply　the　town　of　Larnaca。

In　every　country　where　I　have　travelled　I　have　observed　a　human　weakness
among　the　population　on　the　question　of　〃game；〃　there　is　a　universal
tendency　to　exaggeration；　but　the　locality　of　superabundance　is　always
distant　from　the　narrator。　As　you　proceed　the　game　recedes；　and　you　are
informed　that　〃at　about　two　days'　march　you　will　find　even　more　than　you
require。〃　Upon　arrival　at　the　wished…for　spot　you　are　told　that
〃formerly　there　was　a　large　quantity；　but　that　times　and　seasons　have
changed；　that　about　three　marches　in　your　front　will　bring　you　to　a
hunter's　paradise；〃　&c。　As　Cyprus　was　an　island　of　only　140　miles　in
length；　there　would　be　a　limit　to　these　boundless　descriptions；　but　I
had　already　heard　enough　to　assure　me　that　the　usual　want　of　veracity
upon　this　subject　was　present　in　the　accounts　I　had　received。　The
newspaper　correspondents　had　just　contributed　ridiculous　reports　to
their　several　employers。　Because　the　market　of　Larnaca　was　well　supplied
with　woodcocks；　re