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cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第58部分

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barren of forest; it will possess a minimum rainfall; therefore in all
countries that are expected to develop agricultural resources; the due
proportions of woods and forests require special attention。

In ancient days there can be no question that Cyprus was rich in timber;
and that the mountainous districts were thickly clothed to their summits
with valuable wood varying in species according to altitude。 At the risk
of repetition I must describe the qualities which now exist; and which
were no doubt exported from the island; and became widely known and
appreciated in the early days of Cyprian prosperity。

Oaks。There are several varieties of oak; but large park…like timber of
this species is exceedingly scarce; and although met with occasionally
in grand spreading trees with trunks of large girth; they are only
sufficient to prove the destruction that has befallen their race。 It is
most probable that the oak was largely exported for ship…building; but
as an available forest…tree it may be said to have disappeared。 The ilex
is the most common of all woods upon the Troodos range and upon other
mountains; but the natives have made such constant attacks upon this
quality for the manufacture of charcoal that it is seldom met with as a
forest…tree。 It is extremely hardy; and through continual hacking; it
has grown into dense bushes which are generally about eight feet high;
but in very remote localities among the mountains I have found it in the
shape of timber growing to the height of forty feet。 There is a third
variety with a prickly leaf resembling holly; of an intensely dark
green。

Pines。I have only met with three varietiesthe Pinus maritima; Pinus
laricio; and the stone pine。 The latter is very rare; but may be seen at
Platraes。 The natives invariably pick the cones of this species when
green for the sake of the small edible nuts afforded by the seeds。

The Pinus laricio is a handsome tree with a dark foliage and branches
that droop regularly from the summit; widening towards the base。 It is
difficult to determine the maximum size that would be attained by this
species; as the Cypriotes seldom allow any tree to remain uninjured。 The
usual size of the Laracio on the Troodos range is about fifty feet in
height; with a girth of six feet; but I have frequently seen specimens
of nine feet in girth; and about seventy to eighty feet in height。

The Pinus maritima has a lighter foliage and the branches are more
spreading; but the size is about the same as the Laricio。 Both these
species are rich in tar and turpentine。

Cypress。There are two varietiesthe dwarf; which covers the
flat…topped limestone hills of the Carpas district; and the fragrant
species which grows upon the heights of Troodos and all that range which
extends to Poli…ton…Krysokhus。

The dwarf…cypress attains a height of about twenty feet; and is
exceedingly hard and durable。 The fragrant species varies from thirty to
thirty…five feet; with a stem of six; to sometimes eight feet in
circumference。 The wood is highly aromatic; and I have already described
it as resembling a mixture of sandal…wood and cedar。 This tree is known
by the Cypriotes as kypresses; while the dwarf variety is known as the
〃wild cypress;〃 and is called by them 〃aoratu。〃

Plane (Platanus)。This tree is generally found in the ravines among the
mountains; on the borders of streams; and would grow to a large size;
but its straight young stems are much sought after by the natives for
various purposes; and it is seldom allowed a chance of arriving
unscathed at maturity。 Its light green foliage is highly ornamental;
mixed with the dark shades of the ilex in the deep bottoms of the
gorges; and wherever a never…failing stream is met with the plane may be
expected。

The elm; ash; maple; walnut; mulberry; peach; apricot; apple; pear;
filbert; fig; plum; cherry; orange; lemon; pomegranate; are common; but
as they do not come within the category of trees indigenous to the
natural forests of the island; I shall not include them。

Olive。The wild olive forms a considerable portion of the low
scrub…woods of the Carpas district; and the young trees; when
transplanted and grafted; become the accepted olives of cultivation。
There is no reason why the wild olive should not be grafted in its
natural position the same as the caroub。

Caroub。This tree has already been described; but although not valuable
as timber; owing to the short length of its trunk; it should receive the
special attention of the government; as its produce should be extended
to the utmost limit of the capabilities of the island。 If the wild trees
were grafted wherever they are met with; whole forests would quickly be
produced with a minimum of labour; and vast tracts of rocky soil;
worthless for other cultivation; would be brought into value; at the
same time that the surface would be covered with the much desired
vegetation。

Tremithia。The wood of this tree is of no value; but the berries are
used as a substitute for olive…oil; as it grows in large quantities as a
shrub; simply because it is not allowed the chance of arriving at
maturity; it is to be hoped that a few years of forest supervision will
add this shady and highly…ornamental tree to the list of those common to
the island。 The arbutus; myrtle; and the mastic are trees of so small a
growth that they cannot be classed with 〃Woods and Forests。〃

One of the first acts of the British administration was a stringent
prohibition against the felling of any tree throughout Cyprus; or the
cutting of any wood for the burning of charcoal。 This law for the
preservation of woods and forests extended to trees upon PRIVATE
PROPERTY OF INDIVIDUALS!thus the owner of a garden could not cut down
one of his own caroub…trees if they were too thickly planted; or if he
required a piece of timber for making or repairing his water…wheel。 An
act for the protection of crown forests was highly necessary; but no
laws are of value unless the machinery exists for enforcing them; and at
the present moment the stringent enactment against the destruction of
trees may be evaded like any of the Ten Commandments; because there is
absolutely no staff; nor special officers for the supervision of woods
and forests。 This important subject requires a separate department; and
nothing can be more simple if administered by persons qualified by
education for the development of trees suitable to the island。 The
poverty of the local government; owing to the miserable conditions of
our tenure; which send the cream to Turkey; and suckle the necessary
staff upon the thin skimmed…milk; does not permit the real improvement
of the forests。 It is simply ridiculous to make laws without the active
weapons to enforce authority; we may as well rest satisfied with the
game laws in England and dismiss our keepers; as prohibit the cutting of
wood in Cyprus without supervising the forests by a staff of foresters。
If the words 〃Thou shalt not steal;〃 even from a divine command; were
sufficient to prevent felony and petty larceny; it would be folly to
incur the expense of police; but we know that practically all laws must
be upheld by force; represented by the authorised guardians of the
state。 At this moment in Cyprus the law proclaims; 〃Thou shalt not cut a
tree;〃 while practically you may cut as many as you like in the mountain
forests; as there is no person authorised to interfere with your acts。
Some miserable offender may be pounced upon in his own garden; near one
of the principal towns; where the law SHOULD NEVER HAVE BEEN ENFORCED;
as interfering with the individual rights of private property; but in
the situations where the prohibition is of the first importance; there
is literally not an officer or man to prevent the usual depredations。
Why? The answer must be accepted。 There is no money; and we cannot
afford an independent department of 〃Woods and Forests。〃 If the country
is to continue in this slip…shod form it is a disgrace to England。
There is time to save the forests from absolute destruction; and in my
own opinion; before anything is done beyond the necessary roads and
irrigation loans; every possible attention should be concentrated upon
the protection and development of forest…trees。

The position at this moment is as follows。 Throughout the entire
mountain range there are not 5 per cent。 of pines free from mutilation。

The whole of Troodos; and the mountain districts from near Lithrodondo
to as far west as Poli…ton…Khrysokus; are naturally adapted for the
growth of pines and cypress; which love the soil of the plutonic rocks;
and drive their roots deep into the interstices; deriving nourishment
where nothing else would thrive。 Upon the highest altitudes there is not
a dwarf shrub to cover the surface of the loose coffee…coloured rocks;
where in the winter the snow accumulates to a depth of twenty feet; yet
there we find the pines and cypress in their greatest vigour; but even
to these solitary heights the Cypriote has penetrated with his unsparing
axe; and has created a desolation that must be seen to be understood。
There is no sight so exasperating as this uncalled…for destruction; it
is beyond all belief; and when the amount of labour is considered that
must have been expended in this indiscriminate attack upon forest…trees
THAT ARE LEFT TO ROT UPON THE GROUND where they have fallen; the object
of the attack is at first sight inconceivable。 The sight of a mountain
pine…forest in Cyprus would convey the impression that an enemy who had
conquered the country had determined to utterly destroy it; even to the
primaeval forests; he had therefore felled; and left to rot; the greater
portion of the trees; but finding the labour beyond his means; he had
contented himself with barking; ringing; and hacking at the base of the
remainder; to ensure their ultimate destruction。

The extreme heights of Troodos; shoulders and head; are about 6300 feet
above the sea; from which altitude the pines and cypress descend to
within 1500 feet of the level。 There are rough native mule…paths
throughout the mountains; and the sure…footed animals will carry a man
with ease where walking would be most fatiguing; owin
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