cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第8部分

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these　large　birds　of　prey。　The　British　government　has　already　protected
the　game　by　establishing　a　close　season　and　by　a　tax　upon　all　guns；　but
there　will　be　little　benefit　from　the　new　law　unless　a　reward　shall　be
offered　for　the　destruction　of　the　birds　of　prey　which　swarm　in　every
portion　of　the　islandeagles；　falcons；　kites；　hawks；　ravens；　crows；　and
last；　but　in　cunning　and　destructive　propensity　not　the　least；　the
〃magpies。〃　These　birds　exist　in　such　numbers　that　unless　steps　are　taken
to　destroy　them　it　will　be　hopeless　to　expect　any　increase　of　game。　When
a　magpie　wakes　in　the　early　morning　his　first　thought　is　mischief；　and
during　the　breeding　season　there　is　no　bird　who　makes　egg…hunting　so
especially　his　occupation。　Upon　the　treeless　plains　of　Cyprus　every　nest
is　at　his　mercy。

From　the　base　of　the　barren　hill…range　a　fertile　plain　slopes　towards
the　sea　for　a　width　of　about　four　miles；　having　received　the　soil　that
has　been　washed　from　the　denuded　heights。　This　rich　surface　is
cultivated　with　cereals；　but　there　are　considerable　portions　which　are
covered　with　a　dense　mass　of　thistles；　as　the　land　is　allowed　to　rest
for　a　couple　of　years　after　having　been　exhausted　by　several　crops
without　manuring。　On　the　lowlands　of　Cyprus　nearly　every　plant　or　bush
is　armed　with　thorns。　I　have　generally　observed　that　a　thorny　vegetation
is　a　proof　of　a　burning　climate　with　a　slight　rainfall。　In　the　scorching
districts　of　the　Soudan　there　is　hardly　a　tree　without　thorns　to　the
tenth　degree　of　north　latitude；　at　which　limit　the　rainfall　is　great　and
the　vegetation　changes　its　character。　The　Cypriotes　of　both　sexes　wear
high　boots　to　the　knees　as　a　protection　from　the　countless　thistles；　and
not　as　an　armour　against　snakes；　as　some　writers　have　assumed。　These
boots　are　peculiar　in　their　construction；　the　soles　are　about　an　inch　in
thickness；　formed　of　several　layers　of　leather；　which　are　fastened
together　by　large…headed　nails　from　beneath；　these　are　directed　in　an
oblique　line；　so　as　to　pass　through　the　edge　of　the　upper　leather　and
secure　it　to　the　sole　exactly　as　the　shoe　of　a　horse　is　fitted　to　the
hoof。　The　nails　are　long　and　thin；　and　are　riveted　by　turning　the　points
round　and　hammering　them　like　a　coil　upon　the　leather；　the　heads　of
these　nails　are　nearly　as　large　as　a　shilling；　and　the　boots　are
exceedingly　clumsy；　but　they　increase　the　height　of　the　wearer　by　a　full
inch。

My　amiable　driver　of　the　blue　van；　Georgi；　accompanied　me　in　my　walk；
and　fired　several　useless　shots　at　wild　partridges。　We　now　arrived　at
the　spot　where　the　water　is　led　by　a　subterranean　aqueduct　to　Larnaca。
This　principle　is　so　original；　and　has　from　such　remote　times　been
adopted　in　this　arid　island；　that　it　merits　a　detailed　description。　The
ancient　vestiges　of　similar　works　in　every　portion　of　Cyprus　prove　that
in　all　ages　the　rainfall　must　have　been　uncertain；　and　that　no　important
change　has　taken　place　in　the　meteorological　condition　of　the　country。

In　a　search　for　water…springs　the　Cypriote　is　most　intelligent；　and　the
talent　appears　to　be　hereditary。　If　a　well　is　successful　at　an　elevation
that　will　enable　the　water　to　command　lower　levels　at　a　distance；　it　may
be　easily　understood　that　the　supply　of　one　well　representing　a　unit
must　be　limited。　The　Cypriote　well…sinker　works　upon　a　principle　of
simple　multiplication。　If　one　well　produces　a　certain　flow；　ten　wells
will　multiply　the　volume；　if　connected　by　a　subterranean　tunnel；　and
provided　the　supply　of　water　in　the　spring　is　unlimited。

It　appears　that　Cyprus　exhibits　an　anomaly　in　the　peculiarity　of　a　small
rainfall　but　great　subterranean　water…power；　some　stratum　that　is
impervious　retains　the　water　at　depths　varying　according　to　local
conditions。　The　well…sinker　commences　by　boring；　or　rather　digging；　a
circular　hole　two　feet　six　inches　in　diameter。　The　soil　of　Cyprus　is　so
tenacious　that　the　walls　of　the　shaft　require　no　artificial　support；
this　much　facilitates　the　work；　and　the　labourer；　armed　with　a　very
short…handled　pick；　patiently　hacks　his　vertical　way；　and　sends　up　the
earth　by　means　of　a　basket　and　rope；　drawn　by　a　primitive　but　effective
windlass　above；　formed　of　a　cradle　of　horizontal　wooden　bars。　The　man　in
charge　simply　turns　the　windlass　without　a　handle；　by　clutching　each
successive　bar；　which；　acting　as　a　revolving　lever；　winds　up　the　rope
with　the　weight　attached。

The　rapidity　of　the　well…sinking　naturally　depends　upon　the　quality　of
the　soil；　if　rock　is　to　be　cut　through；　it　is　worked　with　a　mason's　axe
and　the　cold　chisel。　Fortunately　the　geological　formation　is　principally
sedimentary　limestone；　which　offers　no　great　resistance。　At　length　the
water　is　reached。　The　well　is　now　left　open　for　a　few　days　that　an
opinion　may　be　formed　of　the　power；　if　favourable；　another　precisely
similar　well　is　sunk　at　a　distance　of　fifteen　or　sixteen　yards　in　the
direction　towards　the　point　required　by　the　future　aqueduct。　The　spring
being　satisfactory；　the　work　proceeds　with　vigour。　We　will　accept　the
first　well　as　forty　feet　in　depth；　if　the　surface　of　the　earth　were　an
exact　level；　the　next　well　would　be　an　equal　depth；　but　as　the　water
retains　its　natural　level；　the　vertical　measurement　of　each　shaft　will
depend　upon　the　formation　of　the　upper　ground。　The　object　of　the
well…sinker　is　to　create　a　chain　of　wells　united　by　a　subterranean
tunnel；　in　order　to　multiply　the　power　of　a　unit　and　to　obtain　the
entire　supply　of　water；　he　therefore　sinks　perhaps　ten　or　twenty　wells
to　the　same　level；　and　he　cuts　a　narrow　tunnel　from　one　to　the　other；
thus　connecting　his　shafts　at　the　water…line；　so　as　to　form　a　canal　or
aqueduct。　Precisely　as　the　mole　upheaves　at　certain　intervals　the　earth
that　it　has　scraped　from　its　gallery；　the　well…sinker　clears　his　tunnel
by　sending　up　the　contents　through　the　vertical　shafts　fifteen　yards
apart；　around　the　mouth　of　which　a　funnel…shaped　mound　is　formed　by　the
debris。

These　preliminary　walls　being　completed　and　the　water…volume　tested；　the
neighbourhood　is　examined　with　the　hope　of　discovering　other　springs
that　may　upon　the　same　principle　be　conducted　towards　the　main　line　of
the　proposed　aqueduct。　It　is　not　uncommon　to　find　several　chains　of
wells　converging　from　different　localities　to　the　desired　water…head；
and　as　these　are　at　higher　levels；　a　considerable　hydraulic　power　is
obtained；　sufficient　in　many　instances　not　only　to　fill　the　tunnels；　but
to　force　the　water　to　a　greater　elevation　if　required。

The　water…head　being　thoroughly　established；　the　sinking　of　a　chain　of
wells　proceeds；　and　the　tunnels　are　arranged　at　a　given　inclination　to
conduct　the　water　to　the　destined　spot。　This　may　be　many　miles　distant；
necessitating　many　hundred　wells；　which　may　comprise　great　superficial
changes；　hills　that　are　bored　through　necessitate　deep　shafts；　and
valleys　must　be　spanned　by　aqueducts　of　masonry。　In　this　manner　the
water　is　conducted　from　the　springs　of　Arpera　near　the　spot　where　the
river　issues　from　the　narrow　valley　among　the　hills；　and　supplies
Larnaca；　about　eight　miles　distant　from　the　first　head。　The　British
authorities　propose　to　substitute　iron　pipes　for　the　present　aqueduct；
but　it　is　to　be　hoped　that　the　new　scheme　will　be　an　independent　and
additional　work；　that　will　in　no　way　interfere　with　the　important　gift
of　Cheflik　Pacha；　which　has　existed　for　nearly　two　centuries；　and　which；
if　kept　in　repair；　will　supply　the　necessary　volume。



CHAPTER　III。

ROUTE　TO　NICOSIA。

Having　proved　that　any　further　progress　west　was　quite　impracticable　by
vans；　I　returned　to　the　new　main　road　from　Larnaca；　and　carefully
avoiding　it；　we　kept　upon　the　natural　surface　by　the　side　drain；　and
travelled　towards　Dali；　the　ancient　Idalium。

The　thermometer　at　8　A。M。　showed　37　degrees；　and　the　wind　was　keen。　The
road　lay　through　a　most　desolate　country　of　chalk　hills　completely
barren；　diversified　occasionally　by　the　ice…like　crystals　of　gypsum
cropping　out　in　huge　masses。　In　one　of　the　most　dreary　spots　that　can　be
imagined　the　eye　was　relieved　by　a　little　flat…topped　hut　on　the　right
hand；　which　exhibited　a　sign；　〃The　Dewdrop　Inn。〃　The　name　was　hardly
appropriate；　as　the　earth　appeared　as　though　neither　dew　nor　rain　had
blessed　the　surface；　but　I　believe　that　whisky　was　represented　by　the
〃Dewdrop；〃　and　that　the　word　was　intended　to　imply　an　invitation；
〃Do…drop…in。〃　Of　course　we　dropped　in；　being　about　an　hour　in　advance　of
our　vans；　and　I　found　the　landlord　most　obliging；　and　a　bottle　of　Bass's
pale　ale　most　refreshing　in　this　horrible…looking　desert　of　chalk　and
thistles　that　had　become　a　quasi…British　colony。　This　unfortunate　man
and　one　or　two　partners　were　among　those　deluded　victims　who　had
sacrificed　themselves　to　the　impulse　of　our　first　occupation；　upon　the
principle　that　〃the　early　bird　gets　the　worm。〃　Instead　of　getting　on；
the　partners　went　off；　and　left　the　representative　of　the　〃Dewdrop〃　in　a
physical　state　of　weakness　from　attacks　of　fever；　and　the　good
industrious　man　with　little　hope　of　a　golden　future。

Passing　on　after　a　conversation　with　our　landlord；　which　did　not　cheer
me　so　much　as　the　pale　ale；　we　continued　through　the　same　desolate
country　for　about　two　miles；　and　then　turned　off　on　the　left　hand
towards　Dali。　We　passed　through　a　narrow　valley　of　several　hundred　acres
planted　in　vineyards；　and　we　counted　four　olive…trees；　the　first　green
objects　or　signs　of　trees　that　we　had　seen　since　Larnaca！　We　then
continued　through　white　barren　hills　for　another　two　miles；　and
descended　a　steep　hill；　halting　for　the　night　upon　hard　flat　gypsum　rock
opposite　a　village　named　〃Lauranchina；〃　above　the　dry　bed　of　a　torrent；
twelve　miles　from　Larnaca。

On　the　following　morning；　after　a　slight　shower；　we　started　for　Dali。
The　narrow　valleys　were　more　or　less　cultivated　with　vines；　and　about
three　miles　from　the　halting…place　we　entered　the　fertile　plain　of　Dali。
This　is　about　six　miles　long；　by　one　in　width；　highly　cultivated；　with
the　river　flowing　through　the　midst。　As　far　as　we　could　see　in　a　direct
line　groves　of　olives；　vineyards；　and　ploughed　land；　diversified　by
villages；　exhibited　the　power　of　wat