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egypt-第26部分

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like me; no doubt; they are bound for the royal presence。



We land on the sand of the opposite bank; which to…day is almost

deserted。 Formerly there stretched here a regular suburb of Thebes

that; namely; of the preparers of mummies; with thousands of ovens

wherein to heat the natron and the oils; which preserved the bodies

from corruption。 In this Thebes; where for some fifty centuries;

everything that died; whether man or beast; was minutely prepared and

swathed in bandages; it will readily be understood what importance

this quarter of the embalmers came to assume。 And it was to the

neighbouring mountains that the products of so many careful wrappings

were borne for burial; while the Nile carried away the blood from the

bodies and the filth of their entrails。 That chain of living rocks

that rises before us; coloured each morning with the same rose; as of

a tender flower; is literally stuffed with dead bodies。



We have to cross a wide plain before reaching the mountains; and on

our way cornfields alternate with stretches of sand already

desertlike。 Behind us extends the old Nile and the opposite bank which

we have lately quittedthe bank of Luxor; whose gigantic Pharaonic

colonnades are as it were lengthened below by their own reflection in

the mirror of the river。 And in this radiant morning; in this pure

light; it would be admirable; this eternal temple; with its image

reversed in the depth of the blue water; were it not that at its

sides; and to twice its height; rises the impudent Winter Palace; that

monster hotel built last year for the fastidious tourists。 And yet;

who knows? The jackanapes who deposited this abomination on the sacred

soil of Egypt perhaps imagines that he equals the merit of the artist

who is now restoring the sanctuaries of Thebes; or even the glory of

the Pharaohs who built them。



As we draw nearer to the chain of Libya; where this king awaits us; we

traverse fields still green with growing cornand sparrows and larks

sing around us in the impetuous spring of this land of Thebes。



And now beyond two menhirs; as it were; become gradually distinct。 Of

the same height and shape; alike indeed in every respect; they rise

side by side in the clear distance in the midst of these green plains;

which recall so well our fields of France。 They wear the headgear of

the Sphinx; and are gigantic human forms seated on thronesthe

colossal statues of Memnon。 We recognise them at once; for the

picture…makers of succeeding ages have popularised their aspect; as in

the case of the pyramids。 What is strange is that they should stand

there so simply in the midst of these fields of growing corn; which

reach to their very feet; and be surrounded by these humble birds we

know so well; who sing without ceremony on their shoulders。



They do not seem to be scandalised even at seeing now; passing quite

close to them; the trucks of a playful little railway belonging to a

local industry; that are laden with sugar…canes and gourds。



The chain of Libya; during the last hour; has been growing gradually

larger against the profound and excessively blue sky。 And now that it

rises up quite near to us; overheated; and as it were incandescent;

under this ten o'clock sun; we begin to see on all sides; in front of

the first rocky spurs of the mountains; the debris of palaces;

colonnades; staircases and pylons。 Headless giants; swathed like dead

Pharaohs; stand upright; with hands crossed beneath their shroud of

sandstone。 They are the temples and statues for the manes of

numberless kings and queens; who during three or four thousand years

had their mummies buried hard by in the heart of the mountains; in the

deepest of the walled and secret galleries。



And now the cornfields have ceased; there is no longer any herbage

nothing。 We have crossed the desolate threshold; we are in the desert;

and tread suddenly upon a disquieting funereal soil; half sand; half

ashes; that is pitted on all sides with gaping holes。 It looks like

some region that had long been undermined by burrowing beasts。 But it

is men who; for more than fifty centuries; have vexed this ground;

first to hide the mummies in it; and afterwards; and until our day; to

exhume them。 Each of these holes has enclosed its corpse; and if you

peer within you may see yellow…coloured rags still trailing there; and

bandages; or legs and vertebrae of thousands of years ago。 Some lean

Bedouins; who exercise the office of excavators; and sleep hard by in

holes like jackals; advance to sell us scarabaei; blue…glass trinkets

that are half fossilised; and feet or hands of the dead。



And now farewell to the fresh morning。 Every minute the heat becomes

more oppressive。 The pathway that is marked only by a row of stones

turns at last and leads into the depths of the mountain by a tragical

passage。 We enter now into that 〃Valley of the Kings〃 which was the

place of the last rendezvous of the most august mummies。 The breaths

of air that reach us between these rocks are become suddenly burning;

and the site seems to belong no longer to earth but to some calcined

planet which had for ever lost its clouds and atmosphere。 This Libyan

chain; in the distance so delicately rose; is positively frightful now

that it overhangs us。 It looks what it isan enormous and fantastic

tomb; a natural necropolis; whose vastness and horror nothing human

could equal; an ideal stove for corpses that wanted to endure for

ever。 The limestone; on which for that matter no rain ever falls from

the changeless sky; looks to be in one single piece from summit to

base; and betrays no crack or crevice by which anything might

penetrate into the sepulchres within。 The dead could sleep; therefore;

in the heart of these monstrous blocks as sheltered as under vaults of

lead。 And of what there is of magnificence the centuries have taken

care。 The continual passage of winds laden with dust has scaled and

worn away the face of the rocks; so as to leave only the denser veins

of stone; and thus have reappeared strange architectural fantasies

such as Matter; in the beginning; might have dimly conceived。

Subsequently the sun of Egypt has lavished on the whole its ardent

reddish patines。 And now the mountains imitate in places great organ…

pipes; badigeoned with yellow and carmine; and elsewhere huge

bloodstained skeletons and masses of dead flesh。



Outlined upon the excessive blue of the sky; the summits; illumined to

the point of dazzling; rise up in the lightlike red cinders of a

glowing fire; splendours of living coal; against the pure indigo that

turns almost to darkness。 We seem to be walking in some valley of the

Apocalypse with flaming walls。 Silence and death; beneath a

transcendent clearness; in the constant radiance of a kind of mournful

apotheosisit was such surroundings as these that the Egyptians chose

for their necropoles。



The pathway plunges deeper and deeper in the stifling defiles; and at

the end of this 〃Valley of the Kings;〃 under the sun now nearly

meridian; which grows each minute more mournful and terrible; we

expected to come upon a dread silence。 But what is this?



At a turning; beyond there; at the bottom of a sinister…looking

recess; what does this crowd of people; what does this uproar mean? Is

it a meeting; a fair? Under awnings to protect them from the sun stand

some fifty donkeys; saddled in the English fashion。 In a corner an

electrical workshop; built of new bricks; shoots forth the black

smoke; and all about; between the high blood…coloured walls; coming

and going; making a great stir and gabbling to their hearts' content;

are a number of Cook's tourists of both sexes; and some even who

verily seem to have no sex at all。 They are come for the royal

audience; some on asses; some in jaunting cars; and some; the stout

ladies who are grown short of wind; in chairs carried by the Bedouins。

From the four points of Europe they have assembled in this desert

ravine to see an old dried…up corpse at the bottom of a hole。



Here and there the hidden palaces reveal their dark; square…shaped

entrances; hewn in the massive rock; and over each a board indicates

the name of a kingly mummyRamses IV。; Seti I。; Thothmes III。; Ramses

IX。; etc。 Although all these kings; except Amenophis II。; have

recently been removed and carried away to Lower Egypt; to people the

glass cases of the museum of Cairo; their last dwellings have not

ceased to attract crowds。 From each underground habitation are

emerging now a number of perspiring Cooks and Cookesses。 And from that

of Amenophis; especially; they issue rapidly。 Suppose that we have

come too late and that the audience is over!



And to think that these entrances had been walled up; had been masked

with so much care; and lost for centuries! And of all the perseverance

that was needed to discover them; the observation; the gropings; the

soundings and random discoveries!



But now they are being closed。 We loitered too long around the colossi

of Memnon and the palaces of the plain。 It is nearly noon; a noon

consuming and mournful; which falls perpendicularly upon the red

summits; and is burning to its deepest recesses the valley of stone。



At the door of Amenophis we have to cajole; beseech。 By the help of a

gratuity the Bedouin Grand Master of Ceremonies allows himself to be

persuaded。 We are to descend with him; but quickly; quickly; for the

electric light will soon be extinguished。 It will be a short audience;

but at least it will be a private one。 We shall be alone with the

king。



In the darkness; where at first; after so much sunlight; the little

electric lamps seem to us scarcely more than glow…worms; we expected a

certain amount of chilliness as in the undergrounds of our climate。

But here there is only a more oppressive heat; stifling and withering;

and we long to return to the open air; which was burning indeed; but

was a
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