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memoir of fleeming jenkin-第16部分

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usual I have been delighted with my shipwrights。  I gave them some 

beer on Saturday; making a short oration。  To…day when they went 

ashore and I came on board; they gave three cheers; whether for me 

or the ship I hardly know; but I had just bid them good…bye; and 

the ship was out of hail; but I was startled and hardly liked to 

claim the compliment by acknowledging it。



'S。 S。 ELBA:  May 25。



'My first intentions of a long journal have been fairly frustrated 

by sea…sickness。  On Tuesday last about noon we started from the 

Mersey in very dirty weather; and were hardly out of the river when 

we met a gale from the south…west and a heavy sea; both right in 

our teeth; and the poor ELBA had a sad shaking。  Had I not been 

very sea…sick; the sight would have been exciting enough; as I sat 

wrapped in my oilskins on the bridge; 'but' in spite of all my 

efforts to talk; to eat; and to grin; I soon collapsed into 

imbecility; and I was heartily thankful towards evening to find 

myself in bed。



'Next morning; I fancied it grew quieter and; as I listened; heard; 

〃Let go the anchor;〃 whereon I concluded we had run into Holyhead 

Harbour; as was indeed the case。  All that day we lay in Holyhead; 

but I could neither read nor write nor draw。  The captain of 

another steamer which had put in came on board; and we all went for 

a walk on the hill; and in the evening there was an exchange of 

presents。  We gave some tobacco I think; and received a cat; two 

pounds of fresh butter; a Cumberland ham; WESTWARD HO! and 

Thackeray's ENGLISH HUMOURISTS。  I was astonished at receiving two 

such fair books from the captain of a little coasting screw。  Our 

captain said he 'the captain of the screw' had plenty of money; 

five or six hundred a year at least。 … 〃What in the world makes him 

go rolling about in such a craft; then?〃 … 〃Why; I fancy he's 

reckless; he's desperate in love with that girl I mentioned; and 

she won't look at him。〃  Our honest; fat; old captain says this 

very grimly in his thick; broad voice。



'My head won't stand much writing yet; so I will run up and take a 

look at the blue night sky off the coast of Portugal。



'May 26。



'A nice lad of some two and twenty; A… by name; goes out in a 

nondescript capacity as part purser; part telegraph clerk; part 

generally useful person。  A… was a great comfort during the 

miseries 'of the gale'; for when with a dead head wind and a heavy 

sea; plates; books; papers; stomachs were being rolled about in sad 

confusion; we generally managed to lie on our backs; and grin; and 

try discordant staves of the FLOWERS OF THE FOREST and the LOW…

BACKED CAR。  We could sing and laugh; when we could do nothing 

else; though A… was ready to swear after each fit was past; that 

that was the first time he had felt anything; and at this moment 

would declare in broad Scotch that he'd never been sick at all; 

qualifying the oath with 〃except for a minute now and then。〃  He 

brought a cornet…a…piston to practice on; having had three weeks' 

instructions on that melodious instrument; and if you could hear 

the horrid sounds that come! especially at heavy rolls。  When I 

hint he is not improving; there comes a confession:  〃I don't feel 

quite right yet; you see!〃  But he blows away manfully; and in 

self…defence I try to roar the tune louder。



'11:30 P。M。



'Long past Cape St。 Vincent now。  We went within about 400 yards of 

the cliffs and light…house in a calm moonlight; with porpoises 

springing from the sea; the men crooning long ballads as they lay 

idle on the forecastle and the sails flapping uncertain on the 

yards。  As we passed; there came a sudden breeze from land; hot and 

heavy scented; and now as I write its warm rich flavour contrasts 

strongly with the salt air we have been breathing。



'I paced the deck with H…; the second mate; and in the quiet night 

drew a confession that he was engaged to be married; and gave him a 

world of good advice。  He is a very nice; active; little fellow; 

with a broad Scotch tongue and 〃dirty; little rascal〃 appearance。  

He had a sad disappointment at starting。  Having been second mate 

on the last voyage; when the first mate was discharged; he took 

charge of the ELBA all the time she was in port; and of course 

looked forward to being chief mate this trip。  Liddell promised him 

the post。  He had not authority to do this; and when Newall heard 

of it; he appointed another man。  Fancy poor H…having told all the 

men and most of all; his sweetheart。  But more remains behind; for 

when it came to signing articles; it turned out that O…; the new 

first mate; had not a certificate which allowed him to have a 

second mate。  Then came rather an affecting scene。  For H… proposed 

to sign as chief (he having the necessary higher certificate) but 

to act as second for the lower wages。  At first O… would not give 

in; but offered to go as second。  But our brave little H… said; no:  

〃The owners wished Mr。 O… to be chief mate; and chief mate he 

should be。〃  So he carried the day; signed as chief and acts as 

second。  Shakespeare and Byron are his favourite books。  I walked 

into Byron a little; but can well understand his stirring up a 

rough; young sailor's romance。  I lent him WESTWARD HO from the 

cabin; but to my astonishment he did not care much for it; he said 

it smelt of the shilling railway library; perhaps I had praised it 

too highly。  Scott is his standard for novels。  I am very happy to 

find good taste by no means confined to gentlemen; H… having no 

pretensions to that title。  He is a man after my own heart。



'Then I came down to the cabin and heard young A…'s schemes for the 

future。  His highest picture is a commission in the Prince of 

Vizianagram's irregular horse。  His eldest brother is tutor to his 

Highness's children; and grand vizier; and magistrate; and on his 

Highness's household staff; and seems to be one of those Scotch 

adventurers one meets with and hears of in queer berths … raising 

cavalry; building palaces; and using some petty Eastern king's long 

purse with their long Scotch heads。



'Off Bona; June 4。



'I read your letter carefully; leaning back in a Maltese boat to 

present the smallest surface of my body to a grilling sun; and 

sailing from the ELBA to Cape Hamrah about three miles distant。  

How we fried and sighed!  At last; we reached land under Fort 

Genova; and I was carried ashore pick…a…back; and plucked the first 

flower I saw for Annie。  It was a strange scene; far more novel 

than I had imagined:  the high; steep banks covered with rich; 

spicy vegetation of which I hardly knew one plant。  The dwarf palm 

with fan…like leaves; growing about two feet high; formed the 

staple of the verdure。  As we brushed through them; the gummy 

leaves of a cistus stuck to the clothes; and with its small white 

flower and yellow heart; stood for our English dog…rose。  In place 

of heather; we had myrtle and lentisque with leaves somewhat 

similar。  That large bulb with long flat leaves?  Do not touch it 

if your hands are cut; the Arabs use it as blisters for their 

horses。  Is that the same sort?  No; take that one up; it is the 

bulb of a dwarf palm; each layer of the onion peels off; brown and 

netted; like the outside of a cocoa…nut。  It is a clever plant 

that; from the leaves we get a vegetable horsehair; … and eat the 

bottom of the centre spike。  All the leaves you pull have the same 

aromatic scent。  But here a little patch of cleared ground shows 

old friends; who seem to cling by abused civilisation:…fine; hardy 

thistles; one of them bright yellow; though; … honest; Scotch…

looking; large daisies or gowans; … potatoes here and there; 

looking but sickly; and dark sturdy fig…trees looking cool and at 

their ease in the burning sun。



'Here we are at Fort Genova; crowning the little point; a small old 

building; due to my old Genoese acquaintance who fought and traded 

bravely once upon a time。  A broken cannon of theirs forms the 

threshold; and through a dark; low arch; we enter upon broad 

terraces sloping to the centre; from which rain water may collect 

and run into that well。  Large…breeched French troopers lounge 

about and are most civil; and the whole party sit down to breakfast 

in a little white…washed room; from the door of which the long; 

mountain coastline and the sparkling sea show of an impossible blue 

through the openings of a white…washed rampart。  I try a sea…egg; 

one of those prickly fellows … sea…urchins; they are called 

sometimes; the shell is of a lovely purple; and when opened; there 

are rays of yellow adhering to the inside; these I eat; but they 

are very fishy。



'We are silent and shy of one another; and soon go out to watch 

while turbaned; blue…breeched; barelegged Arabs dig holes for the 

land telegraph posts on the following principle:  one man takes a 

pick and bangs lazily at the hard earth; when a little is loosened; 

his mate with a small spade lifts it on one side; and DA CAPO。  

They have regular features and look quite in place among the palms。  

Our English workmen screw the earthenware insulators on the posts; 

strain the wire; and order Arabs about by the generic term of 

Johnny。  I find W… has nothing for me to do; and that in fact no 

one has anything to do。  Some instruments for testing have stuck at 

Lyons; some at Cagliari; and nothing can be done … or at any rate; 

is done。  I wander about; thinking of you and staring at big; green 

grasshoppers … locusts; some people call them … and smelling the 

rich brushwood。  There was nothing for a pencil to sketch; and I 

soon got tired of this work; though I have paid willingly much 

money for far less strange and lovely sights。



'Off Cape Spartivento:  June 8。



'At two this morning; we left Cagliari; at five cast anchor here。  

I got up and
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