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memoir of fleeming jenkin-第21部分
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though I was very tired at the end of the first quarter of an hour;
and then every successive half hour; I would not give in。 I nearly
paid dear for my obstinacy; however; for in the evening I had
alternate fits of shivering and burning。'
III。
The next extracts; and I am sorry to say the last; are from
Fleeming's letters of 1860; when he was back at Bona and
Spartivento and for the first time at the head of an expedition。
Unhappily these letters are not only the last; but the series is
quite imperfect; and this is the more to be lamented as he had now
begun to use a pen more skilfully; and in the following notes there
is at times a touch of real distinction in the manner。
'Cagliari: October 5; 1860。
'All Tuesday I spent examining what was on board the ELBA; and
trying to start the repairs of the Spartivento land line; which has
been entirely neglected; and no wonder; for no one has been paid
for three months; no; not even the poor guards who have to keep
themselves; their horses and their families; on their pay。
Wednesday morning; I started for Spartivento and got there in time
to try a good many experiments。 Spartivento looks more wild and
savage than ever; but is not without a strange deadly beauty: the
hills covered with bushes of a metallic green with coppery patches
of soil in between; the valleys filled with dry salt mud and a
little stagnant water; where that very morning the deer had drunk;
where herons; curlews; and other fowl abound; and where; alas!
malaria is breeding with this rain。 (No fear for those who do not
sleep on shore。) A little iron hut had been placed there since
1858; but the windows had been carried off; the door broken down;
the roof pierced all over。 In it; we sat to make experiments; and
how it recalled Birkenhead! There was Thomson; there was my
testing board; the strings of gutta…percha; Harry P… even;
battering with the batteries; but where was my darling Annie?
Whilst I sat feet in sand; with Harry alone inside the hut …mats;
coats; and wood to darken the window … the others visited the
murderous old friar; who is of the order of Scaloppi; and for whom
I brought a letter from his superior; ordering him to pay us
attention; but he was away from home; gone to Cagliari in a boat
with the produce of the farm belonging to his convent。 Then they
visited the tower of Chia; but could not get in because the door is
thirty feet off the ground; so they came back and pitched a
magnificent tent which I brought from the BAHIANA a long time ago …
and where they will live (if I mistake not) in preference to the
friar's; or the owl… and bat…haunted tower。 MM。 T… and S… will be
left there: T…; an intelligent; hard…working Frenchman; with whom
I am well pleased; he can speak English and Italian well; and has
been two years at Genoa。 S… is a French German with a face like an
ancient Gaul; who has been sergeant…major in the French line and
who is; I see; a great; big; muscular FAINEANT。 We left the tent
pitched and some stores in charge of a guide; and ran back to
Cagliari。
'Certainly; being at the head of things is pleasanter than being
subordinate。 We all agree very well; and I have made the testing
office into a kind of private room where I can come and write to
you undisturbed; surrounded by my dear; bright brass things which
all of them remind me of our nights at Birkenhead。 Then I can work
here; too; and try lots of experiments; you know how I like that!
and now and then I read … Shakespeare principally。 Thank you so
much for making me bring him: I think I must get a pocket edition
of Hamlet and Henry the Fifth; so as never to be without them。
'Cagliari: October 7。
''The town was full?' 。 。 。 of red…shirted English Garibaldini。 A
very fine looking set of fellows they are; too: the officers
rather raffish; but with medals Crimean and Indian; the men a very
sturdy set; with many lads of good birth I should say。 They still
wait their consort the Emperor and will; I fear; be too late to do
anything。 I meant to have called on them; but they are all gone
into barracks some way from the town; and I have been much too busy
to go far。
'The view from the ramparts was very strange and beautiful。
Cagliari rises on a very steep rock; at the mouth of a wide plain
circled by large hills and three…quarters filled with lagoons; it
looks; therefore; like an old island citadel。 Large heaps of salt
mark the border between the sea and the lagoons; thousands of
flamingoes whiten the centre of the huge shallow marsh; hawks hover
and scream among the trees under the high mouldering battlements。 …
A little lower down; the band played。 Men and ladies bowed and
pranced; the costumes posed; church bells tinkled; processions
processed; the sun set behind thick clouds capping the hills; I
pondered on you and enjoyed it all。
'Decidedly I prefer being master to being man: boats at all hours;
stewards flying for marmalade; captain enquiring when ship is to
sail; clerks to copy my writing; the boat to steer when we go out …
I have run her nose on several times; decidedly; I begin to feel
quite a little king。 Confound the cable; though! I shall never be
able to repair it。
'Bona: October 14。
'We left Cagliari at 4。30 on the 9th and soon got to Spartivento。
I repeated some of my experiments; but found Thomson; who was to
have been my grand stand…by; would not work on that day in the
wretched little hut。 Even if the windows and door had been put in;
the wind which was very high made the lamp flicker about and blew
it out; so I sent on board and got old sails; and fairly wrapped
the hut up in them; and then we were as snug as could be; and I
left the hut in glorious condition with a nice little stove in it。
The tent which should have been forthcoming from the cure's for the
guards; had gone to Cagliari; but I found another; 'a' green;
Turkish tent; in the ELBA and soon had him up。 The square tent
left on the last occasion was standing all right and tight in spite
of wind and rain。 We landed provisions; two beds; plates; knives;
forks; candles; cooking utensils; and were ready for a start at 6
P。M。; but the wind meanwhile had come on to blow at such a rate
that I thought better of it; and we stopped。 T… and S… slept
ashore; however; to see how they liked it; at least they tried to
sleep; for S… the ancient sergeant…major had a toothache; and T…
thought the tent was coming down every minute。 Next morning they
could only complain of sand and a leaky coffee…pot; so I leave them
with a good conscience。 The little encampment looked quite
picturesque: the green round tent; the square white tent and the
hut all wrapped up in sails; on a sand hill; looking on the sea and
masking those confounded marshes at the back。 One would have
thought the Cagliaritans were in a conspiracy to frighten the two
poor fellows; who (I believe) will be safe enough if they do not go
into the marshes after nightfall。 S… brought a little dog to amuse
them; such a jolly; ugly little cur without a tail; but full of
fun; he will be better than quinine。
'The wind drove a barque; which had anchored near us for shelter;
out to sea。 We started; however; at 2 P。M。; and had a quick
passage but a very rough one; getting to Bona by daylight 'on the
11th'。 Such a place as this is for getting anything done! The
health boat went away from us at 7。30 with W… on board; and we
heard nothing of them till 9。30; when W… came back with two fat
Frenchmen who are to look on on the part of the Government。 They
are exactly alike: only one has four bands and the other three
round his cap; and so I know them。 Then I sent a boat round to
Fort Genois 'Fort Genova of 1858'; where the cable is landed; with
all sorts of things and directions; whilst I went ashore to see
about coals and a room at the fort。 We hunted people in the little
square in their shops and offices; but only found them in cafes。
One amiable gentleman wasn't up at 9。30; was out at 10; and as soon
as he came back the servant said he would go to bed and not get up
till 3: he came; however; to find us at a cafe; and said that; on
the contrary; two days in the week he did not do so! Then my two
fat friends must have their breakfast after their 〃something〃 at a
cafe; and all the shops shut from 10 to 2; and the post does not
open till 12; and there was a road to Fort Genois; only a bridge
had been carried away; &c。 At last I got off; and we rowed round
to Fort Genois; where my men had put up a capital gipsy tent with
sails; and there was my big board and Thomson's number 5 in great
glory。 I soon came to the conclusion there was a break。 Two of my
faithful Cagliaritans slept all night in the little tent; to guard
it and my precious instruments; and the sea; which was rather
rough; silenced my Frenchmen。
'Next day I went on with my experiments; whilst a boat grappled for
the cable a little way from shore and buoyed it where the ELBA
could get hold。 I brought all back to the ELBA; tried my machinery
and was all ready for a start next morning。 But the wretched coal
had not come yet; Government permission from Algiers to be got;
lighters; men; baskets; and I know not what forms to be got or got
through … and everybody asleep! Coals or no coals; I was
determined to start next morning; and start we did at four in the
morning; picked up the buoy with our deck engine; popped the cable
across a boat; tested the wires to make sure the fault was not
behind us; and started picking up at 11。 Everything worked
admirably; and about 2 P。M。; in came the fault。 There is no doubt
the cable was broken by coral fishers; twice they have had it up to
their own knowledge。
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