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memoir of fleeming jenkin-第21部分

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though I was very tired at the end of the first quarter of an hour; 

and then every successive half hour; I would not give in。  I nearly 

paid dear for my obstinacy; however; for in the evening I had 

alternate fits of shivering and burning。'





III。





The next extracts; and I am sorry to say the last; are from 

Fleeming's letters of 1860; when he was back at Bona and 

Spartivento and for the first time at the head of an expedition。  

Unhappily these letters are not only the last; but the series is 

quite imperfect; and this is the more to be lamented as he had now 

begun to use a pen more skilfully; and in the following notes there 

is at times a touch of real distinction in the manner。



'Cagliari:  October 5; 1860。



'All Tuesday I spent examining what was on board the ELBA; and 

trying to start the repairs of the Spartivento land line; which has 

been entirely neglected; and no wonder; for no one has been paid 

for three months; no; not even the poor guards who have to keep 

themselves; their horses and their families; on their pay。  

Wednesday morning; I started for Spartivento and got there in time 

to try a good many experiments。  Spartivento looks more wild and 

savage than ever; but is not without a strange deadly beauty:  the 

hills covered with bushes of a metallic green with coppery patches 

of soil in between; the valleys filled with dry salt mud and a 

little stagnant water; where that very morning the deer had drunk; 

where herons; curlews; and other fowl abound; and where; alas! 

malaria is breeding with this rain。 (No fear for those who do not 

sleep on shore。)  A little iron hut had been placed there since 

1858; but the windows had been carried off; the door broken down; 

the roof pierced all over。  In it; we sat to make experiments; and 

how it recalled Birkenhead!  There was Thomson; there was my 

testing board; the strings of gutta…percha; Harry P… even; 

battering with the batteries; but where was my darling Annie?  

Whilst I sat feet in sand; with Harry alone inside the hut …mats; 

coats; and wood to darken the window … the others visited the 

murderous old friar; who is of the order of Scaloppi; and for whom 

I brought a letter from his superior; ordering him to pay us 

attention; but he was away from home; gone to Cagliari in a boat 

with the produce of the farm belonging to his convent。  Then they 

visited the tower of Chia; but could not get in because the door is 

thirty feet off the ground; so they came back and pitched a 

magnificent tent which I brought from the BAHIANA a long time ago … 

and where they will live (if I mistake not) in preference to the 

friar's; or the owl… and bat…haunted tower。  MM。 T… and S… will be 

left there:  T…; an intelligent; hard…working Frenchman; with whom 

I am well pleased; he can speak English and Italian well; and has 

been two years at Genoa。  S… is a French German with a face like an 

ancient Gaul; who has been sergeant…major in the French line and 

who is; I see; a great; big; muscular FAINEANT。  We left the tent 

pitched and some stores in charge of a guide; and ran back to 

Cagliari。



'Certainly; being at the head of things is pleasanter than being 

subordinate。  We all agree very well; and I have made the testing 

office into a kind of private room where I can come and write to 

you undisturbed; surrounded by my dear; bright brass things which 

all of them remind me of our nights at Birkenhead。  Then I can work 

here; too; and try lots of experiments; you know how I like that! 

and now and then I read … Shakespeare principally。  Thank you so 

much for making me bring him:  I think I must get a pocket edition 

of Hamlet and Henry the Fifth; so as never to be without them。



'Cagliari:  October 7。



''The town was full?' 。 。 。 of red…shirted English Garibaldini。  A 

very fine looking set of fellows they are; too:  the officers 

rather raffish; but with medals Crimean and Indian; the men a very 

sturdy set; with many lads of good birth I should say。  They still 

wait their consort the Emperor and will; I fear; be too late to do 

anything。  I meant to have called on them; but they are all gone 

into barracks some way from the town; and I have been much too busy 

to go far。



'The view from the ramparts was very strange and beautiful。  

Cagliari rises on a very steep rock; at the mouth of a wide plain 

circled by large hills and three…quarters filled with lagoons; it 

looks; therefore; like an old island citadel。  Large heaps of salt 

mark the border between the sea and the lagoons; thousands of 

flamingoes whiten the centre of the huge shallow marsh; hawks hover 

and scream among the trees under the high mouldering battlements。 … 

A little lower down; the band played。  Men and ladies bowed and 

pranced; the costumes posed; church bells tinkled; processions 

processed; the sun set behind thick clouds capping the hills; I 

pondered on you and enjoyed it all。



'Decidedly I prefer being master to being man:  boats at all hours; 

stewards flying for marmalade; captain enquiring when ship is to 

sail; clerks to copy my writing; the boat to steer when we go out … 

I have run her nose on several times; decidedly; I begin to feel 

quite a little king。  Confound the cable; though!  I shall never be 

able to repair it。



'Bona:  October 14。



'We left Cagliari at 4。30 on the 9th and soon got to Spartivento。  

I repeated some of my experiments; but found Thomson; who was to 

have been my grand stand…by; would not work on that day in the 

wretched little hut。  Even if the windows and door had been put in; 

the wind which was very high made the lamp flicker about and blew 

it out; so I sent on board and got old sails; and fairly wrapped 

the hut up in them; and then we were as snug as could be; and I 

left the hut in glorious condition with a nice little stove in it。  

The tent which should have been forthcoming from the cure's for the 

guards; had gone to Cagliari; but I found another; 'a' green; 

Turkish tent; in the ELBA and soon had him up。  The square tent 

left on the last occasion was standing all right and tight in spite 

of wind and rain。  We landed provisions; two beds; plates; knives; 

forks; candles; cooking utensils; and were ready for a start at 6 

P。M。; but the wind meanwhile had come on to blow at such a rate 

that I thought better of it; and we stopped。  T… and S… slept 

ashore; however; to see how they liked it; at least they tried to 

sleep; for S… the ancient sergeant…major had a toothache; and T… 

thought the tent was coming down every minute。  Next morning they 

could only complain of sand and a leaky coffee…pot; so I leave them 

with a good conscience。  The little encampment looked quite 

picturesque:  the green round tent; the square white tent and the 

hut all wrapped up in sails; on a sand hill; looking on the sea and 

masking those confounded marshes at the back。  One would have 

thought the Cagliaritans were in a conspiracy to frighten the two 

poor fellows; who (I believe) will be safe enough if they do not go 

into the marshes after nightfall。  S… brought a little dog to amuse 

them; such a jolly; ugly little cur without a tail; but full of 

fun; he will be better than quinine。



'The wind drove a barque; which had anchored near us for shelter; 

out to sea。  We started; however; at 2 P。M。; and had a quick 

passage but a very rough one; getting to Bona by daylight 'on the 

11th'。  Such a place as this is for getting anything done!  The 

health boat went away from us at 7。30 with W… on board; and we 

heard nothing of them till 9。30; when W… came back with two fat 

Frenchmen who are to look on on the part of the Government。  They 

are exactly alike:  only one has four bands and the other three 

round his cap; and so I know them。  Then I sent a boat round to 

Fort Genois 'Fort Genova of 1858'; where the cable is landed; with 

all sorts of things and directions; whilst I went ashore to see 

about coals and a room at the fort。  We hunted people in the little 

square in their shops and offices; but only found them in cafes。  

One amiable gentleman wasn't up at 9。30; was out at 10; and as soon 

as he came back the servant said he would go to bed and not get up 

till 3:  he came; however; to find us at a cafe; and said that; on 

the contrary; two days in the week he did not do so!  Then my two 

fat friends must have their breakfast after their 〃something〃 at a 

cafe; and all the shops shut from 10 to 2; and the post does not 

open till 12; and there was a road to Fort Genois; only a bridge 

had been carried away; &c。  At last I got off; and we rowed round 

to Fort Genois; where my men had put up a capital gipsy tent with 

sails; and there was my big board and Thomson's number 5 in great 

glory。  I soon came to the conclusion there was a break。  Two of my 

faithful Cagliaritans slept all night in the little tent; to guard 

it and my precious instruments; and the sea; which was rather 

rough; silenced my Frenchmen。



'Next day I went on with my experiments; whilst a boat grappled for 

the cable a little way from shore and buoyed it where the ELBA 

could get hold。  I brought all back to the ELBA; tried my machinery 

and was all ready for a start next morning。  But the wretched coal 

had not come yet; Government permission from Algiers to be got; 

lighters; men; baskets; and I know not what forms to be got or got 

through … and everybody asleep!  Coals or no coals; I was 

determined to start next morning; and start we did at four in the 

morning; picked up the buoy with our deck engine; popped the cable 

across a boat; tested the wires to make sure the fault was not 

behind us; and started picking up at 11。 Everything worked 

admirably; and about 2 P。M。; in came the fault。  There is no doubt 

the cable was broken by coral fishers; twice they have had it up to 

their own knowledge。
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