memoirs of general william t. sherman-1-第8部分

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d　and　I　roomed　together；　Halleck　and　Loeser　and　the　others　were　scattered　about。　　The　men　were　arranged　in　bunks　〃between…decks；〃　one　set　along　the　sides　of　the　ship；　and　another；　double　tier；　amidships。　　The　crew　were　slung　in　hammocks　well　forward。　　Of　these　there　were　about　fifty。　　We　at　once　subdivided　the　company　into　four　squads；　under　the　four　lieutenants　of　the　company；　and　arranged　with　the　naval　officers　that　our　men　should　serve　on　deck　by　squads；　after　the　manner　of　their　watches；　that　the　sailors　should　do　all　the　work　aloft；　and　the　soldiers　on　deck。

On　fair　days　we　drilled　our　men　at　the　manual；　and　generally　kept　them　employed　as　much　as　possible；　giving　great　attention　to　the　police　and　cleanliness　of　their　dress　and　bunks；　and　so　successful　were　we　in　this；　that；　though　the　voyage　lasted　nearly　two　hundred　days；　every　man　was　able　to　leave　the　ship　and　march　up　the　hill　to　the　fort　at　Monterey；　California；　carrying　his　own　knapsack　and　equipments。

The　voyage　from　New　York　to　Rio　Janeiro　was　without　accident　or　any　thing　to　vary　the　usual　monotony。　　We　soon　settled　down　to　the　humdrum　of　a　long　voyage；　reading　some；　not　much；　playing　games；　but　never　gambling；　and　chiefly　engaged　in　eating　our　meals　regularly。　　In　crossing　the　equator　we　had　the　usual　visit　of　Neptune　and　his　wife；　who；　with　a　large　razor　and　a　bucket　of　soapsuds；　came　over　the　sides　and　shaved　some　of　the　greenhorns；　but　naval　etiquette　exempted　the　officers；　and　Neptune　was　not　permitted　to　come　aft　of　the　mizzen…mast。　　At　last；　after　sixty　days　of　absolute　monotony；　the　island　of　Raza；　off　Rio　Janeiro；　was　descried；　and　we　slowly　entered　the　harbor；　passing　a　fort　on　our　right　hand；　from　which　came　a　hail；　in　the　Portuguese　language；　from　a　huge　speaking…trumpet；　and　our　officer　of　the　deck　answered　back　in　gibberish；　according　to　a　well…understood　custom　of　the　place。　　Sugar…loaf　Mountain；　on　the　south　of　the　entrance；　is　very　remarkable　and　well　named；　is　almost　conical；　with　a　slight　lean。　The　man…of…war　anchorage　is　about　five　miles　inside　the　heads；　directly　in　front　of　the　city　of　Rio　Janeiro。　　Words　will　not　describe　the　beauty　of　this　perfect　harbor；　nor　the　delightful　feeling　after　a　long　voyage　of　its　fragrant　airs；　and　the　entire　contrast　between　all　things　there　and　what　we　had　left　in　New　York。

We　found　the　United　Staten　frigate　Columbia　anchored　there；　and　after　the　Lexington　was　properly　moored；　nearly　all　the　officers　went　on　shore　for　sight…seeing　and　enjoyment。　　We　landed　at　a　wharf　opposite　which　was　a　famous　French　restaurant；　Farroux；　and　after　ordering　supper　we　all　proceeded　to　the　Rua　da　Ouvador；　where　most　of　the　shops　were；　especially　those　for　making　feather　flowers；　as　much　to　see　the　pretty　girls　as　the　flowers　which　they　so　skillfully　made；　thence　we　went　to　the　theatre；　where；　besides　some　opera；　we　witnessed　the　audience　and　saw　the　Emperor　Dom　Pedro；　and　his　Empress；　the　daughter　of　the　King　of　Sicily。　　After　the　theatre；　we　went　back　to　the　restaurant；　where　we　had　an　excellent　supper；　with　fruits　of　every　variety　and　excellence；　such　as　we　had　never　seen　before；　or　even　knew　the　names　of。　　Supper　being　over；　we　called　for　the　bill；　and　it　was　rendered　in　French；　with　Brazilian　currency。　　It　footed　up　some　twenty…six　thousand　reis。　The　figures　alarmed　us；　so　we　all　put　on　the　waiters'　plate　various　coins　in　gold；　which　he　took　to　the　counter　and　returned　the　change；　making　the　total　about　sixteen　dollars。　　The　millreis　is　about　a　dollar；　but　being　a　paper…money　was　at　a　discount；　so　as　only　to　be　worth　about　fifty…six　cents　in　coin。

The　Lexington　remained　in　Rio　about　a　week；　during　which　we　visited　the　Palace；　a　few　miles　in　the　country；　also　the　Botanic　Gardens；　a　place　of　infinite　interest；　with　its　specimens　of　tropical　fruits；　spices；　etc。；　etc。；　and　indeed　every　place　of　note。　　The　thing　I　best　recall　is　a　visit　Halleck　and　I　made　to　the　Corcovado；　a　high　mountain　whence　the　water　is　conveyed　for　the　supply　of　the　city。　We　started　to　take　a　walk；　and　passed　along　the　aqueduct；　which　approaches　the　city　by　a　aeries　of　arches；　thence　up　the　point　of　the　hill　to　a　place　known　as　the　Madre；　or　fountain；　to　which　all　the　water　that　drips　from　the　leaves　is　conducted　by　tile　gutters；　and　is　carried　to　the　city　by　an　open　stone　aqueduct。

Here　we　found　Mr。　Henry　A。　Wise；　of　Virginia；　the　United　States　minister　to　Brazil；　and　a　Dr。　Garnett；　United　States　Navy；　his　intended　son…in…law。　　We　had　a　very　interesting　conversation；　in　which　Mr。　Wise　enlarged　on　the　fact　that　Rio　was　supplied　from　the　〃dews　of　heaven；〃　for　in　the　dry　season　the　water　comes　from　the　mists　and　fogs　which　hang　around　the　Corcovado；　drips　from　the　leaves　of　the　trees；　and　is　conducted　to　the　Madre　fountain　by　miles　of　tile　gutters。　　Halleck　and　I　continued　our　ascent　of　the　mountain；　catching　from　points　of　the　way　magnificent　views　of　the　scenery　round　about　Rio　Janeiro。　　We　reached　near　the　summit　what　was　called　the　emperor's　coffee…plantation；　where　we　saw　coffee…berries　in　their　various　stages；　and　the　scaffolds　on　which　the　berries　were　dried　before　being　cleaned。　　The　coffee…tree　reminded　me　of　the　red　haw…tree　of　Ohio；　and　the　berries　were　somewhat　like　those　of　the　same　tree；　two　grains　of　coffee　being　inclosed　in　one　berry。　　These　were　dried　and　cleaned　of　the　husk　by　hand　or　by　machinery。　　A　short；　steep　ascent　from　this　place　carried　us　to　the　summit；　from　which　is　beheld　one　of　the　most　picturesque　views　on　earth。　　The　Organ　Mountains　to　the　west　and　north；　the　ocean　to　the　east；　the　city　of　Rio　with　its　red…tiled　houses　at　our　feet；　and　the　entire　harbor　like　a　map　spread　out；　with　innumerable　bright　valleys；　make　up　a　landscape　that　cannot　be　described　by　mere　words。　　This　spot　is　universally　visited　by　strangers；　and　has　often　been　described。　　After　enjoying　it　immeasurably；　we　returned　to　the　city　by　another　route；　tired　but　amply　repaid　by　our　long　walk。

In　due　time　all　had　been　done　that　was　requisite；　and　the　Lexington　put　to　sea　and　resumed　her　voyage。　　In　October　we　approached　Cape　Horn；　the　first　land　descried　was　Staten　Island；　white　with　snow；　and　the　ship　seemed　to　be　aiming　for　the　channel　to　its　west；　straits　of　Le　Maire；　but　her　course　was　changed　and　we　passed　around　to　the　east。　　In　time　we　saw　Cape　Horn；　an　island　rounded　like　an　oven；　after　which　it　takes　its　name　（Ornos）　oven。　　Here　we　experienced　very　rough　weather；　buffeting　about　under　storm　stay…sails；　and　spending　nearly　a　month　before　the　wind　favored　our　passage　and　enabled　the　course　of　the　ship　to　be　changed　for　Valparaiso。　　One　day　we　sailed　parallel　with　a　French　sloop…of…war；　and　it　was　sublime　to　watch　the　two　ships　rising　and　falling　in　those　long　deep　swells　of　the　ocean。　　All　the　time　we　were　followed　by　the　usual　large　flocks　of　Cape…pigeons　and　albatrosses　of　every　color。　　The　former　resembled　the　common　barn…pigeon　exactly；　but　are　in　fact　gulls　of　beautiful　and　varied　colors；　mostly　dove…color。　　We　caught　many　with　fishing…lines　baited　with　pork。　We　also　took　in　the　same　way　many　albatrosses。　　The　white　ones　are　very　large；　and　their　down　is　equal　to　that　of　the　swan。　　At　last　Cape　Horn　and　its　swelling　seas　were　left　behind；　and　we　reached　Valparaiso　in　about　sixty　days　from　Rio。　　We　anchored　in　the　open　roadstead；　and　spent　there　about　ten　days；　visiting　all　the　usual　places　of　interest；　its　foretop；　main…top；　mizzen…top；　etc。　Halleck　and　Ord　went　up　to　Santiago；　the　capital　of　Chili；　some　sixty　miles　inland；　but　I　did　not　go。　　Valparaiso　did　not　impress　me　favorably　at　all。　　Seen　from　the　sea；　it　looked　like　a　long　string　of　houses　along　the　narrow　beach；　surmounted　with　red　banks　of　earth；　with　little　verdure；　and　no　trees　at　all。　　Northward　the　space　widened　out　somewhat；　and　gave　room　for　a　plaza；　but　the　mass　of　houses　in　that　quarter　were　poor。　　We　were　there　in　November；　corresponding　to　our　early　spring；　and　we　enjoyed　the　large　strawberries　which　abounded。　　The　Independence　frigate；　Commodore　Shubrick；　came　in　while　we　were　there；　having　overtaken　us；　bound　also　for　California。　　We　met　there　also　the　sloop…of…war　levant；　from　California；　and　from　the　officers　heard　of　many　of　the　events　that　had　transpired　about　the　time　the　navy；　under　Commodore　Sloat；　had　taken　possession　of　the　country。

All　the　necessary　supplies　being　renewed　in　Valparaiso；　the　voyage　was　resumed。　　For　nearly　forty　days　we　had　uninterrupted　favorable　winds；　being　in　the　〃trades；〃　and；　having　settled　down　to　sailor　habits；　time　passed　without　notice。　　We　had　brought　with　us　all　the　books　we　could　find　in　New　York　about　California；　and　had　read　them　over　and　over　again：　Wilkes's　〃Exploring　Expedition；〃　Dana's　〃Two　Years　before　the　Mast；〃　and　Forbes's　〃Account　of　the　Missions。〃　　It　was　generally　understood　we　were　bound　for　Monterey；　then　the　capital　of　Upper　California。　　We　knew；　of　course；　that　General　Kearney　was　enroute　for　the　same　country　overland；　that　Fremont　was　therewith　his　exploring　party；　that　the　navy　had　already　taken　possession；　and　that　a　regiment　of　volunteers；　Stevensons；　was　tofollow　us　from　New　York；　but　nevertheless　we　were　impatient　to　reach　our　destination。　　About　the　middle　of　January　the　ship　began　to　approach　the　California　coast；　of　which　the　captain　was　duly　cautious；　because　the　English　and　Spanish　charts　differed　some　fifteen　miles　in　the　longitude；　and　on　all　the　charts　a　current　of　two　miles　an　hour　was　indicated　northward　along　the　coast。　　At　last　land　was　made　one　morning；　and　here　occurred　one　of　those　accidents　so　provoking　after　a　long　and　tedious　voyage。　　Macomb；　the　master　and　regular　navigator；　had　made　the　correct　observations；　but　Nicholson　during　the　night；　by　an　observation　on　the　north　star；　put　the　ship　some　twenty　miles　farther　south　than　was　the　case　by　the　regular　reckoning；　so　that　Captain　Bailey　gave　directions　to　alter　the　course　of　the　ship　more　to　the　north；　and　to　follow　the　coast　up；　and　to　keep　a　good　lookout　for　Point　Pinos　that　marks　the　location　of　Monterey　Bay。　　The　usual　north　wind　slackened；　so　that　when　noon　allowed　Macomb　to　get　a　good　observation；　it　was　found　that　we　were　north　of　Ano　Nuevo；　the　northern　headland　of　Monterey　Bay。　　The　ship　was　put　about；　but　little　by　little　arose　one